What would winter be without a good calçotada?
The calçot is nothing other than a type of white onion . Surprised? It is not a coincidence of nature, but something that you work to achieve. But tell us better Francesc Xavier Amill , president of the only Protected Geographical Indication (IGP) of Spain , that of Calçot de Valls.
the calçot
"The origin of the calçot is half history, half legend: it is due to a farmer who really existed, Xat de Benaiges . Farmers always ate in the fields and took advantage of everything. If a snail came out they would throw it into the pot, the same with an asparagus. Then he saw an onion that was grilled (germinated) and threw it on the coals to see what would happen”, he tells Traveler.es. The result was that, by removing the burned part, the inside was sweet and tasty.
“A calçot is a cricket of a white onion . This late variety of lleida , which marks the PGI , is from which the socks . Once collected, is replanted on purpose , what for take out crickets and it is these that we then shod with earth around them. This is where the name comes from trace , in Catalan). If we didn't do it, an onion as we know it would come out again," says Francesc.
WHAT IS THE 'PERFECT CALÇOT' LIKE?
"From the IGP we set the regulations that the white part must have a length of 15 to 25 centimeters and a diameter between 1.7 and 2.7 centimeters. In addition, it must be planted in the counties of Alt Camp, Baix Camp, Tarragonés and Penedés ”, he explains to Traveler.es. Just as the area of consumption has expanded, the area where calçot is grown is expanded . For this reason, the IGP continues to study to improve both in taste and quality . The season started at mid november , with the first ones who left, and they estimate that it can reach up to Holy Week.
the white part must be between 15 and 25 centimeters long and between 1.7 and 2.7 centimeters in diameter.
This association of Calçot de Valls started its activity 25 years ago. There were 14 partners, with a volume of 400,000 socks . Currently, it has about 50 members, with 16 million units of labeled calçot.
HOW TO DISTINGUISH THE TRUE CALÇOT?
“Our calçots are always in bundles of 20-25-50 units , tied with a plastic string or blue strap and with the hanging tag with the PGI logo . But there is more, because each bunch goes with its own barcode , for product traceability. At any time, if a final consumer finds that the calçot is bad, we can know from which producer it comes ”, Francesc Xavier tells us.
THE PERFECT CALÇOTADA: HOW TO GRILL THE CALÇOTS
“In a farmhouse and with Calçot de Valls Of course,” he laughs. “The ideal is to use, as firewood, vine shoots , which is the area's production, that they are dried from the previous year . We want it to generate flare. To do this, put the calçots on one side and more wood is added when turned , so that they remain black on the outside and cooked on the inside . If another type of firewood is used, it can leave other aromas or flavors that are transferred to the calçot”, he concludes.
So knowing all this, the time has come to put on the bib (it's not going to be that you get stained), wet well in the Romesco sauce and show your skills to eat calçots. Where? We tell you.
The time has come to put on the bib
WHERE TO EAT THE BEST CALÇOTS
The cradle of the calçot is Catalonia . From that place where a good part of what we eat in all of Spain comes from, to Barcelona. And from there they have made an effort to promulgate throughout the country the calçot culture . Since last weekend January 25 and 26 , when the mythical calçotada was celebrated, Valleys is a party . Over there Felix House It is one of the banners. On their grills in full view of the diners, they roast hundreds of calçots with rhythm that come out to the restaurant tables. Your menu of calçotada 2020 includes a good portion of these with sauce, longaniza with mongetes (White beans) , grilled lamb meat with all-i-oli garnish and Catalan cream for dessert.
Not far from there is the charming town of Masmolets . In a old mansion of the XVIII , which does not lack a detail to make us feel in another era, is the Cal Ganxo restaurant , with one peculiarity: they only serve calçotadas . On a flame of vine shoots, they cook the calçots, which are served immediately wrapped in newspaper and on a tile , as is done in the countryside, and is accompanied by the mythical sauce of Granny Cisqueta , key that the restaurant is always full. They are followed by suckling pig meat, longaniza and black sausage, accompanied by ganxet beans and artichokes. Dessert? Catalan cream, once again and orange. All this paired with wine and cava from Penedès.
Calçotada in Cal Ganxo Restaurant
Back in the city Barcelona It is not far behind when it comes to calçotadas. For example in Poble Nou They just had a popular calçotada and until the moritz factory hosted a feast of this spring onion washed down by their beers. Another street option is the Market of the Land of Poblesec , which is held every Saturday and highlights local products and slow food and, in February and March, the appointments are monographic with calçotadas.
They all agree that L'Antic Forn It is one of the best places to eat them. A few steps from the central Plaza Catalunya, is this restaurant with more than 30 years behind him . The peculiarity? That here the embers, instead of vine shoots, are made of charcoal, which gives the calçots a different flavor, more smoky than the rest. They are served accompanied by Romesco sauce which, moreover, is suitable for coeliacs , because in their recipe they do not use bread.
L'Antic Forn
If there is a restaurant that even being in Barcelona makes you think that you are in another place, that is Can Travi Nou . located in a 17th century farmhouse , carries offering calçotadas since 1982 , year in which it opened its doors. Terrace, gardens and dining rooms where you can sit at a table and enjoy tradition with two special menus: one, with calçots and romesco sauce , grilled sausage, rabbit, chicken and lamb with mongetes, coca del Maresme with tomàquet and dessert; another, which is completed with the above and a pica pica with snails, cod fritters, escalivada and Iberian ham . Does anyone give more?
A 17th century farmhouse that has been offering calçotadas since 1982
are you looking for a bit more creative ? Then come to try the version of succulent. They prepare them on the grill , with a meuniere of toasted hazelnuts and straciatella . Nor are they left behind Rodrigo de la Calle in his brand new Virens , at the Almanac Hotel, steamed algae calçots with red bean juice and minced peppers.
And now we jump to Balearics . You already know that, but Ibiza out of season it is a real joy. And one of the big shots, with capital letters, is in the lower case town of Sant Agusti . There, surrounded by just four houses and a church, is the Can Berri restaurant . And that not many hear it, but on different dates in February and March, they organize a memorable calçotada . for 19 euros, include calçots and romesco sauce , a grilled meat and the perfect Ibizan ending, café caleta. All this on its terrace, with live music, good vibes everywhere and the almost spring sun as a companion. The next? On March 1 and 15, for now, because they may extend it to more days . Run, because the squares fly.
Suculent's calçots
And of course, although the calçotadas are reason for meeting and the coolest ones are in the street and with strangers, we couldn't imagine, as much as we liked it, someone lighting embers in the middle of Madrid and roasting calçots to the flame . Although it would be worth remembering. In the capital we settle for enjoying them in a few restaurants that pay homage to the Valls product par excellence.
Repeat every year and it is that the urban calçotada of paradise It has no equal in the city. What has led them to establish themselves as one of the key places in Madrid to eat calçots? They have a orchard in Anglesola (Lleida) . In Finca La Morana , they grow everything they serve in the restaurant, from tomatoes, to lettuce, cabbage and other vegetables and, of course, socks . Until the end of March, they propose a exclusive menu , which for the modest price of 36 euros per person , includes a gargantuan feast.
Start with homemade sausages like black sausage or fuet and well of bread with tomato to take them . It continues with croquettes and calçots, which in this case are prepared in a fine tempura that makes them crispy, accompanied by romesco sauce. As tradition dictates, they continue with a parade of grilled meats , among which to try bacon, lamb chops or peasant sausage and accompany them with escarole, ganxet beans Y all-i-oli . They finish off with homemade flan or burnt cream. And best of all, if you like the sauce they prepare, you can take it home, because they sell it, along with other products from the garden, in the restaurant shop.
Another one that includes it in its seasonal menu is the restaurant at Cesar Martin, Lakasa . And of course, they don't come from Madrid. Pau Santamaria , one of their trusted suppliers and son of the late** chef Santi Santamaría**, brings them to the restaurant in the capital from Vic and it does so with a sweeter variety than those from the region tend to be. Served as a starter, they are prepared in the charcoal oven, over the living flame just like it is done in the field.
Once cooked, they are presented, this time yes, clean and ready to eat. They are accompanied by a Romesco sauce following Santi Santamaría's recipe , with Roasted Josper Tomatoes , heads of garlic, chorizo pepper, toasted bread and almonds.
And to try the genuine ones from Valls in the capital, go to candeli , that in the middle of Ponzano street, serves a menu of 39 euros per person , where they prepare them on the grill with romesco sauce, a cod brandade au gratin, grilled sausage with mongetes and charcoal-grilled suckling lamb chops.
It's calçotada time!
Calçotadas properly said in Madrid, are the ones that are prepared in House George , a Catalan cuisine restaurant, who has been preparing this specialty for more than 10 years. in your menu, for 39 euros per person , they serve tumaca bread, Catalan sausages, cod esqueixada and escalivada from the garden. And that only as starters. They continue with their calçots , this time yes, prepared in the traditional way and with romesco sauce, followed by a tray of grilled meats, including rabbit ali-oli, suckling lamb chops or Alpicat sausage with mongetes. A lemon sorbet to degrease and a cream
the calçot