Pamplona in two days
Before we start, we warn: Pamplona surprises a lot . If there is only the San Fermin stereotype in your head, eliminate it right now. The city is green, walkable, cozy, beautiful and enough entertaining. It's not that it's the ultimate, but it's not Mordor either.
FRIDAY
19. 30. Our weekend in Pamplona means arriving around 7:30 pm by train from Madrid or Barcelona. Here you have to be careful, since the Navarrese are very much from their land and that train can get crowded, especially in the dates around July 7 . Another more convenient option is to arrive by plane, although the small airport of Noain is not suitable for all pockets , since only Iberia flies. And we don't think it's worth it: the train is comfortable. If you arrive by bus, the station is new, central and a stone's throw from everything. Because the good news is that Pamplona is very walkable.
Where we sleep?
Nowadays, Pamplona has a wide and good accommodation offer for all tastes (and budgets). You have trendy hostels and premium hotels . Among the first, we recommend Xarma Hostel (in a nice house between the center and a park, with unbeatable prices) or Hemingway Hostel, functional, modern, and five minutes (walking) from the bullring and the Old (as Pamploneses call to its old town).
The terrace of Xarma Hostel.
If you have more budget, two infallible in the center are Hotel Palacio Guendulain , a four star in a 18th century palace , or Pamplona Catedral Hotel , next to the Portal of France , surrounded by the walls of Pamplona, is in what was the natural entrance of the pilgrims of the Camino de Santiago, so, following its tradition, if you present your card, they will give you a discount for being a pilgrim.
Yes indeed, we do not recommend that you pay anything more than for your accommodation . The range of places for your three meals is so wide that it would be a crime to stay in the hotel (you know that those from the North can give lessons on this).
20.00. Leave your suitcase and go to dinner. First tribute to the body. Today we do not plan to extend the night (we leave that for tomorrow), so we look for a n place to eat and eat well . The white doll points us to three classics: Rodero , Europa and El Molino de Urdániz , three wonders with a Michelin star each, where you can taste Navarran delicacies with a touch of haute cuisine. The opportunity is unique.
Crown of fried artichokes with Norway lobsters and pepper oil, a classic from Rodero.
In another more deadly world (come on, with fewer euros) another proposal for today is the Iruñazarra, in the mythical merchants street , a newly renovated bar that has won this year the Pamplona pintxos contest , with a young chef who will make people talk.
22.30. A pleasant after-meal conversation can be taking a short walk (we remind you that everything is close by) and having a drink in one of the terraces of the Plaza del Castillo . Yes indeed, in Pamplona winter is long like in the land of the Starks , so night terracing is limited to a few weeks a year. And, always, always, with your jacket under your arm.
Castle plaza
SATURDAY
9.30 Getting up early is not what we like the most, but Pamplona and its morning party deserve it. And if you are one of those who do not spend much time sleeping or you like to move your body in the early hours, The capital of Navarra has a promenade that is very unknown to tourists and is a treasure for the locals. It is the Paseo del Arga, the river that surrounds the city. Perfectly indicated, you can start it next to the Crescent Park , travel the entire meander until ending up in another park, the heel , that marvel so well cared for, **with deer and peacocks (among other little animals) ** that delights young and old. If it's winter or you don't feel like getting up in the morning, you can leave the walk for siesta time. But you can't miss the Taconera.
10.30 And it's not that we want to keep you fasting. It is precisely that, in the Taconera, there is the Café Vienés, a small emblematic café (and one of our favorites) where have breakfast and read a newspaper, yes, on paper, old style . There are cakes, toasts, delicious coffees in a pergola surrounded by flowers. Note for sanfermineros: at parties, its terrace under the trees is the wonder to get out of the center for a moment.
The legendary Viennese Café.
12. 00 With a full stomach, we dedicate this Saturday morning to quintessential tourist tour of old Iruña: the running of the bulls . Since we only have 48 hours, we are going to see the most representative of the city. To reach from the Taconera to the beginning of the slope of Santo Domingo , use the wall walk , just 10 minutes to walk above the medieval city. Views and beauty assured.
12.30 You are in the slope of Santo Domingo and you feel it, whatever day of the year it is: 890 meters of running with some bulls behind It is the madness that places Pamplona on the world map every year. The route crosses the heart of the ancient city, so it's a perfect way to get into it. The slope of Santo Domingo ends in the Town Hall Square . You have seen its façade thousands of times on TV, every year on July 6. From the balcony they shout Long live San Fermir, Gora! And everything changes. The madness begins.
This is not Pamplona (it is only a tiny part)
13.00 It is advisable to make a small stop along the way. Behind the Town Hall, there is a traditional market, in which you should buy, at least a navarro cheese to take home . Obviously, if you are a foodie you are in a good place to stock up on local seasonal product . The orchard is the strong point in the area but you can also stock up on meat, preserves or mushrooms.
13.30 More shops in Lo Viejo that we like (remember that it is a small business and most do not open on Saturday afternoon): fragment , on Calle Nueva, next to the Town Hall, by the designer Karlota Laspalas it's a lo-cu-ra. ** La Cabina **, on Curia street, next to the Cathedral, for those who are crazy about vintage decoration. At good prices. Danye , at his side, with objects brought from Africa. And in the Plaza del Castillo, the Objects Happy Days , impossible to leave here without a gift. And in the lively Comedias street, two places (among many) that we love: ** Elkar bookstore ** and ** Ruhna **.
Fragment, on New Street.
14.00 We are back with our six imaginary bulls on our backs merchants street to make a sharp right turn Estafeta street . PHOTO to the poster (yes, don't act like you're being touristy, it gives a certain emotion). Here you know what time you start eating pintxos, but you never know what time to finish. Recommendations are not necessary. You have 50 bars ahead . Come in, look, order and enjoy.
15.30 If you want, we'll look for a place to eat... but after seven pintxos maybe it's better to sit down in search of calm and conversation, right? The terrace of Pamplona with best views you will find them at the highest point of its old town, behind the cathedral. The uphill walk will do you good and the views of The White Horse, even better. Pamplona is a pre-Pyrenean city and, from here, you will see the mountains that surround it to the north. In summer, they also organize concerts and it's wonderful.
Great atmosphere at the White Horse.
17.00 After this pleasant moment on the White Horse, we got up and we enjoyed the views , while we walk a little through the Wall . In summer, on weekend nights this is filled with open-air concerts, candle-lighting activities, storytelling... Maximum enjoyment.
18.00 An obligatory place to stop: ** Katakrak , on Calle Mayor**. It is a bookstore, it is a center of thought with activities, it is a lively canteen. For a snack, coffee, the first beer of the afternoon or the most special purchases, as you wish. A little further, also in the main Street , the beautiful 16th century building converted into a cultural space Constable It is a safe bet (you will find exhibitions and all the cultural information of the city).
19.00 Stroll through the Old before we get into night mode.
20.00 Before starting Saturday night, let's gather strength on Calle San Nicolás. Also with many locals, we chose Picnic. They tempt us interior patio and market cuisine , in addition to its modern atmosphere. Madrilenians, we warn: here the schedules are earlier, less late than what is customary in the capital of Spain, so do not get lost to go out to dinner.
Picnic, in San Nicolás street.
22.00 We had said that If you wanted a party, you were going to have it. Well, let's go on a Saturday night. The old town keep being him hard core of the people of Pamplona to socialize so that, in a dozen streets, Ground Zero is concentrated. For tastes the colors here and in anything.
If yours is the pachangueo without many aspirations in terms of the resident dj , the area of the San Nicolas street suffer the typical transformation of the pamplonauta bar . Pintxos bar during the day and full-throttle gossip at night. You can look for alternatives in the area of the Navarreria street , today a heterogeneous area where some fixie bike hipster , some LGTB environment, and thirty-year-old perroflautismo, of all life.
above 40 and with a somewhat posh load, you can surround yourself with the area near the Plaza de Toros , already outside the old town. But one and the other, it is very likely that they will end the night in the room that has come to welcome them all: ** El Zentral **, a large room-gastropub with concerts and various activities (also during the day) with equally long hours, just behind City Hall. Impossible to miss.
To the rhythm of the night in the Zentral.
SUNDAY
11.00 Today we do not get up early. We had breakfast at the ** Café Niza ,** modern, bright, with a view. We ask for something healthy to clean up the ravages of the night. We ordered breakfast consisting of natural yogurt with muesli-fruit + organic juice.
12.00 Yesterday we suggested several plans, but surely you didn't have time for everything, so today you can pick one up. We suggest you start with a walk through Pamplona's Central Park. The truth is that all the parks in Pamplona are highly recommended, but this is the largest. In the middle, The Citadel It is an old military fortress that today is a very nice park where weddings are held, it has a nice bar with a terrace and two art galleries. Won't you complain?
14.00 We eat at ** El Colmado ,** bar, restaurant and winery with old trade look although it is relatively new. Good prices, good atmosphere, contemporary market cuisine and a place different from those we have already frequented in the Casco Viejo, although now it is one of the fashion sites.
16.00 Man does not live by eating alone. So Pamplona usually has a good cultural offer all year round. The Gayarre Theater or the Auditorium Baluarte They are your references. Look at them.
As for the museums, we recommend three: the Museo de Navarra, in the old town, the Museo de la Universidad de Navarra (with a building by Moneo) and the Museo Oteiza.
The University Museum of Navarra, a very recent museum, is surrounded by university campus , which is undoubtedly an extra attraction that takes you back to British campuses. Its collection of contemporary art is very interesting and has a good performing arts programming.
Although one of our favorites is the museum dedicated to Jorge Oteiza . East little known genius was something like Chillida's nemesis, and his work is preserved in a beautiful space created from the one he was his own house, 10 kilometers from Pamplona, where he lived this totem of sculpture and architecture of the last century. The ride is the flourish to a very full weekend.
19.30 We take the train back. We will be back!
The Oteiza museum.