The pirate life is the best life (in Santander Bay)
Breakfast. Pereda walk. Nothing better than start the day like a king... or a banker . On Paseo de Pereda there is not only the headquarters of the Banco de Santander, but also the best cafes where passers-by dressed in Sunday clothes get refreshed daily. 'Welcome to this elegant city!!' they seem to say with finesse while they can't help put a figure eight (popular puff pastry bun) in the mouth . And it is that patisseries such as Frypsia, El Suizo or Café Pombo invite to breakfast anyone who sticks their nose to their window and looks with greed and lust at their sample of sweets.
Mid-morning snack. Stoned. Santander is synonymous with port, so it is worth strolling through the modern and old docks, such as the Palacete. Once there, it is difficult not to fall into the temptation of taking the boat and crossing the bay. This is the most authentic way to get to Pedreña. Once there, the mythomaniacs of golf have a mandatory visit to the Royal Golf Club, one of the oldest in Spain and where Severiano Ballesteros holed his first putts. His story is collected in his social chalet and in the Culebrero restaurant Once in the town, the figure of this illustrious Cantabrian is still remembered with tears in his eyes while they serve you the last coffee or the first aperitif. Taking the same small ferry, you reach Somo, from where you have a perfect view of Santander and you can bury your feet in one of the most spectacular beaches on the Cantabrian coast. Surf shops and schools alternate with bars like La Caracola or Melly Gaviota.
Appetizer. Rabas in the lighthouse. Controlling the bay stands this monumental lighthouse, an old century-old building from where a beautiful path starts that runs along the violent cliffs. This walk is a perfect way to whet your appetite, which is quickly satiated on the only terrace in the place. The lighthouse bar It is not only famous for its spectacular location: in the shadow of the white building, overlooking the sea while the horses of a nearby riding school pay a visit and attract everyone's attention. They prepare in their kitchen the best portions of squid rings in all of Cantabria , a dish exported to every self-respecting Spanish tavern, but in this city it reaches the peak of its flavour.
Food. In the heart of Puerto Chico. The fishing district of the city is not only a redoubt of old and rude bars, but there is also a place to reinvent Santander gastronomy every day. Lasal restaurant has sucked the essence of a corner of Buenos Aires: the sea and outside influences to give its recipes a different touch. Yes, they eat spider crabs, but within a few delicious croquettes . Yes, there is fish, but done in its own way (that is, with salt) and bathed in fusion sauces. And so dozens of dishes in which to recognize ancient flavors in modern recipes. Brainstorming is not lacking since its chefs have inspiration at the door of the premises: with a single walk through this neighborhood, ideas flow from stool to serving.
Coffee and dessert. The terrace of the Magdalena spa. This is the only cafeteria in the stately peninsula of Magdalena. And it is not because of any plug but because of its tradition, which has made it a 'must' for everyone who drops by over the years. The postcard that can be seen under its awnings is one of the most beautiful pictures of the bay. A view that can be enjoyed while attacking the extensive dessert menu where the chocolate pyramid with homemade custard and the pomace on sobaos pasiegos , the essence of the region in just a dozen bites. Oh, by the way, it is not a spa but the first stop on the visit to this peninsula. A route that allows you to digest while you surround the eclectic palace or spend dead time gawking at the seals, sea lions and penguins in its friendly open-air zoo.
Summer snack. The legendary Regma ice cream parlor. Few cities can boast of having their own ice cream factory. Santander is one of them and the fault lies with this brand that was born as a small family business until it monopolized the enjoyment of this delicious and cold snack on its beaches. His small booth on Sardinero beach provokes in the summer season a huge queue of vacationers who yearn for one of his delicacies with a cone. Even in winter their stalls receive fleeting visits from those who take advantage of a ray of sunshine to justify themselves and say to themselves: "It's time for ice cream, let's go to the Regma".
Dinner. The tireless offer of Cañadío. This popular square is the epicenter of the sunset for the people of Santander, who come en masse to cool off in its bars or dine in its peculiar inns. The dishes are of similar origin and, normally, what inclines to make a decant and choose is the atmosphere. In La Conveniente, dinner is usually based on classic portions while an endearing man dissipates the noise playing the piano tirelessly. The Cañadío restaurant is one of the pioneers in updating the pintxo concept, giving it sophistication under the premise of virtue in the shortest time possible. In the nearby Días de sur, what awaits you is the metaregional conversation of the Spanish nutritional essence. Or what comes to be a self-parody of the differences between the north and south of our country applied to food. He could be considered an intruder, but the humor of his menu, his funny blackboards where he explains that anchovies are eaten on top and shrimp omelettes on the bottom, and his relaxed revelry have earned him a place in the preferences of locals and foreigners.
First cup. Through the center from bar to bar. The night advances and strolling is imposed as a way to get through the early hours of the morning with numerous alternatives, all of them close and accessible. For jazz lovers, it is a must to enjoy the gin and tonic at Balenciaga Jazz, the great showcase of this music and this lifestyle of the city . For the most classic, there is the Malaspina, a place that has been the backbone of the party in Santander over the years and that has earned its fame for its music, its cocktails and an exclusive atmosphere where it is normal to find the creamiest of the Cantabrian society. Live music is at Rocambole, a temple of rock, pop and indie that reopened its doors a year ago to serve as a fundamental stop for any worthwhile tour. The last suggestion is the Grog, the fashionable nightclub to spend the whole night dancing.
Extend the night Sunrise on the river La Pila. This steep street is the epicenter of nightlife in Santander. Floods of people go up and down this artery, crowding at the entrances of the bars and nightclubs that are concentrated there, either waiting to enter or taking in the fresh air. They are unpretentious pubs with a pleasant and undivided atmosphere. Some places like Drink have consolidated their fame over time, although the most advisable thing is to dance this street from place to place until the body can bear it and the sun rises behind the mountains and the bay.