Bangkok all to yourself
I encourage you to visit this great city alone, in order to prepare a decalogue of the essentials to make the trip a perfect experience. Do you want to know what they are? Keep reading.
1. AN ASIAN LUXURY DREAM
Upon landing, I hesitate between becoming a backpacker – one is already an age – or settling in a hotel to see first-hand what the expression 'Asian luxury' refers to. The balance tips towards the second, and I reserve in the Hotel Mandarin Oriental because, being a asian chain I know I will meet my goal.
I am lucky enough to receive a room overlooking the river ** Chao Phraya **, and with a wonderful bathtub that I will try every night with the same illusion as the first time; will be my rest from the warrior , after the frantic expeditions through the city.
Mandarin Oriental Bangkok
Therefore, my initial contact with Bangkok is to inspect the hotel in depth. has a modern building attached to an old one , from the colonial era –beautiful, by the way–, which maintains the essence of that time and two pools, one to practice a few lengths, retro style and lots of Balinese beds, and another more like a pond, to get wet and take off the heat (which it does, and a lot).
They told me that you can't leave this hotel without trying the spa , and since I am of the “wherever you go, do what you see” theory, I take the boat that crosses the river to immerse myself in its wonderful spa, where I indulge in a restorative Thai massage. Curiosity gets the better of me –I'm a journalist for a reason–, on my way back I sneak into the adjoining building and stumble upon a Thai cooking course, specifically Gaeng Kiew Wan, namely meat with green curry and coconut milk.
The Chao Phraya River from the Mandarin Oriental Hotel in Bangkok
two. A BOAT TRIP
Going to Bangkok and not sailing down its river is like going to the April Fair and not dressing up as faralaes. Be in the type of boat that is. I opted to rent a small boat typical of the area for a few hours and let myself be guided by the captain.
The journey takes me to know the authentic klongs (canals) –which some call the Venice of the East–, crowded and full of activity of all kinds, such as street vendors, and to spot a multitude of boats that create traffic jams, among which there are many houseboats. I also visualize numerous temples with piers . Getting lost in these canals is a perfect way to see the most traditional and everyday Bangkok.
A boat through the klongs of Bangkok
3. TASTE STREET FOOD
The streets of Bangkok are flooded with street markets They offer all kinds of food. One can spend five days in this city without having to repeat the same meals. Of course, all the dishes come standard with a high spiciness level , so my advice is to ask for "spicy European mode", with which, at least you get your mouth not to burn. Note the expression " mai phet " (not spicy) ; it will be really helpful.
There are three obligatory stops to discover the most authentic street food: the market or tor kor ; on Sunday Chatuchak, a large open-air market – you can go to a small place on the corner and you will recognize it by the number of people – where you will eat a delicious fried chicken with rice; and, if what you want is to enjoy the best Pai Thai in the city, the place is Thip Samai (313-315 Maha Chai Rd) , but it's only open at night, and there's always a queue out the door. Arm yourself with patience and distract yourself watching how they prepare the dishes, in showcooking; worth.
or tor kor
Four. VISIT THE ROYAL PALACE AND THE RECLINING BUDDHA
Any self-respecting trip includes a good dose of culture on its agenda, and Bangkok has plenty of that. Each corner of each street has temples of various sizes, but perhaps the one that is most worth visiting is the grand royal palace , a complex of buildings of great beauty that was the Official residence of the King of Thailand from the 18th century to the mid-20th century.
One note: if you are a woman you should be quite covered with your clothes. And not far from there what pho , the temple where the famous Reclining Buddha is located, which is also interesting to keep an eye on. It is a sculpture of disproportionate dimensions (46 meters long and 15 high), which makes it impossible to fit it entirely in a single photograph.
Another note: If you want to comply with the Buddhist tradition of distributing alms, you must exchange a bill for hundreds of coins and pour one by one into each urn. I don't remember his exact number, but it takes time.
Bangkok Royal Palace
5. STROLL THROUGH CHINA TOWN
The Chinese constitute the largest community in the world, and in Bangkok there is a large colony of emigrants. As in almost all cities where there is a Chinatown, its aesthetics and lifestyle change from day to night, so I intend to go both times to see it with my own eyes.
What do I discover? Mainly that at night it is less hot, so the terraces of the restaurants come alive with diners who taste star dishes such as dim sum; oyster omelets or flat noodles in a pepper broth.
During the day it is much more chaotic, full of street stalls, motorcycles that appear out of nowhere, and thousands of people rushing through its streets. Start the walk on the main street Aowarat, and I lose myself in its streets. As a souvenir, I take a photo at the China Gate, although it is called the King's due to loyalty to the King Bhumibol of Thailand.
6. HAVE A DRINK WITH A VIEW
At this point the decision is very clear. I have two options: either emulate the protagonists of the film hangover in bangkok and go to Sirocco Bar (Lebua At State Tower) on the 62nd floor of the State Tower building, or opt for a terrace with good views, like Vertigo, at the Banyan Tree Hotel. What I do? I go to one of them every night, and so I don't have any doubts.
Banyan Tree Bangkok
7. TRANSPORT BY SUBWAY
The metro in this city is by air and only has two lines, which is why it is so different and, therefore, it is advisable to take it at least once. It moves on rails at a certain height, which makes you feel like the protagonist of the movie Bladerunner. He takes me to see the mall Central Embassy , an architectural wonder packed with luxury shops – I can only look at the windows –, and with a macro bookstore on its sixth floor, which has food stalls inside. It is the most curious and highly recommended.
8. GET ON A TUK TUK
It is the most popular means of transport fun, original and practical to move around this immense city. Just a few tips so you don't get caught again –as happened to me–: the price is negotiated before starting the trip, and best to avoid rush hour (07:00-09:00 and from 16:00-19:00), because you will be breathing all the pollution caused by the enormous traffic that travels all its streets. Use it for short trips ; If you need to cross the city, it is safer and more comfortable to travel in a taxi that has air conditioning.
tuk tuks everywhere
9. MASSAGE IN A SPA
Passionate about massages, this is your moment: I challenge myself to find the best in the city. Finally I place two on the podium: for a Thai massage I prefer the one from Mandarin Oriental Hotel spa that I already described before; For a relaxing massage based on essential oils, I fervently recommend the Shambhala that they practice at the Metropolitan Hotel Spa.
10. A TAI-CHI CLASS IN THE PARK
Early in the morning in Lumphini , the most famous park in the city, many groups gather to enjoy Tai-chi classes. As I do not practice this activity frequently –if not ever–, I limit myself to silently observe how the locals do it. And since some knowledge of history always comes in handy, I find out that this park was created in the 1920s by the King Rama VI, who realized that the city also needed to have green spaces.
Time flies and it's time to go home. I do so with the feeling that – albeit quickly – I have complied with the initiative of completing the decalogue of obligatory stops proposed by the wonderful city. Of course, I know that I will return to add many more to the list.