The Grand Canal of Trieste.
Born and raised in Trieste, Antonia Klugman is the chef at L'Argine A Venco, a Michelin-starred restaurant and B&B in Dolegna del Collio , a wine region in Friuli-Venezia Giulia , which borders the Slovenian border. Expansion of the property, which opened in 2014, is underway, with plans to build an additional four rooms and a cookery school in an abandoned 16th-century mill.
This interview is part of "The World Made Local" , a global project of Condé Nast Traveler in the seven international editions , which gives voice to 100 people in 100 countries to discover why their own territory should be your next destination.
What's Friuli-Venezia Giulia like?
I believe that Friuli-Venezia Giulia differs from the rest of Italy, since does not respond to the typical Italian cliché . Come from Trieste , the port city on the Adriatic bordering with Slovenia. With its surrounding hills and recently renovated ancient ports, between the city center and the sea, Trieste reminds me a bit of Genoa. However, much of its architecture is more akin to that of Vienna, and rightly so, as the city spent 600 years under the Austro-Hungarian Empire.
I chose to open my restaurant an hour from Trieste but in the countryside where I spend most of my time. It is right next to the Slovenian border, in the middle of one of Italy's main white wine production areas. The vines stretch as far as the eye can see. The jewish river passes by, and its sound brings me peace. The water reminds me of home, I grew up near the sea and now I live by the Natisone River.
If a friend came to visit you and was only there for 24 hours, what plan would you propose?
Assuming the point of arrival was Trieste, I would tell him to drive to the duino castle and walk by Rilke Trail , where there is an impressive view of the Gulf of Trieste . Back in the city, set aside some time to walk around the Coastal Triestina and to take some photos. You should also make a stop at the miramare castle , and stroll through the spectacular, recently renovated gardens.
In Trieste you have to go The Bomboniera , an Austrian bakery, and/or to the Pasticceria Penso , to try the Rigojansci, a Hungarian chocolate cake that can only be found in Trieste. The Revoltella Museum It has a permanent collection with works by local painters such as Bruno Croatto, a leading figure in 20th-century magical realism.
For lunch I like to go to Pepi , a buffet where you can eat the typical “fast food” lunch of Bollito Misto (boiled meats), which is not really “fast food” at all (it takes four hours to cook!).
Heading to the countryside, you can pay a visit to the winemaker Jasko Gravner in Oslavia . He is a pioneer producer, whose tastings give a fascinating insight into the territory's history. Reserve a table at Agli Amici , with two Michelin stars, in Udine . For something less formal, but very local, a good option is to eat at The climb , in Cormons , the Trattoria Sale E Pepe in Stregna , either Dvor Osteria Enoteca , in San Floriano del Collio.
Where would you recommend booking a room?
In the countryside you can book at various wineries, such as Venica , in Dolegna del Collio , either Borgo San Daniele , in Cormons . In Trieste , I would go for a historic hotel like the Grand Hotel Duchi d'Aosta or the Palace of Savoy Excelsior or if not, for a more modern accommodation, such as the Hilton or the Victoria Hotel.
What is your latest discovery in the area?
Friuli is famous for its raw prosciutto. San Daniele is the best known, but I have discovered the Prosciutto d'Osvaldo. The small grower is only 10 minutes from my restaurant and is delicious with a sweet taste. In addition, the Zore goat cheese It is one of the best I have tasted. They do it, too, in the hills near my restaurant and it manages to capture the flavors and aromas of the countryside. Other must-see places for cheese lovers are Zoff , in Cormons , for its cow cheeses, and Handle , in San Pietro al Natisone for the yogurt.
Why should we travel to Friuli (when we can)?
What I love most about Friuli-Venezia Giulia is its complexity. It is an unexpected Italy, "the Italy without the clichés". It's relatively undiscovered, compared to the rest of the country, and that's a shame. We have Roman ruins, like the city of Aquileia , excellent food and wine, ancient traditions and breathtaking nature, from the Grados Lagoon until carnian mountains . In an hour, you can go from the city to the rustic tranquility of the countryside. Also, Slovenia is just around the corner and the two cultures overlap, adding to the charm of Friuli. Two days in Trieste, two days in the country, and two days in the mountains of Carnia are like a trip to three completely different worlds.