What role does pumpkin in Spain beyond Halloween? Towards the end of October, we all like to succumb to those irresistible clichés: fancy costumes (hello, Squid Game), movie marathons, “bloody” recipes and, of course, the iconic pumpkins that make autumn even more terrifying.
The pumpkin It is an ancestral fruit of pre-Hispanic origin that belongs to the group of cucurbitaceae fruits, which also includes courgettes, squash or pumpkin, many of them baptized by indigenous tribes.
Nevertheless, the relationship between pumpkin and Halloween born from the ancient custom of stuffing turnips with candles in Ireland, home country of the pagan festival Samhain . When the Irish diaspora arrived in the United States in the 19th century, families realized that pumpkin could be a good decorative substitute for turnip.
At this point in the 21st century, Halloween is already a global holiday that spreads throughout the world under the Yankee imprint, although the pumpkins were always there , somewhat cornered. Until now.
Currently Spain is one of the main pumpkin producers in Europe and several entrepreneurs project their own vision of this ancient fruit.
Fall equals pumpkins!
THE ‘PUMPKIN PATCH’ MADE IN SPAIN IS IN ARANJUEZ
During these days thousands of farms throughout the United States fill their pumpkin crops. From Florida to California, from Ohio to Texas, families visit these spaces to succumb to the call “pumpkin patch” (catch pumpkins) , the perfect excuse to take the typical Instagram photo or take home your own pumpkin and decorate the living room.
This custom, so deeply rooted across the pond, had hardly penetrated our country, a reason that led to Jorge Nieto, second generation of a family of greengrocers from Aranjuez, to be one of the pioneers of this practice.
George leads The Garden of Aranjuez, a set of own orchards whose products are sold in two stores in Madrid, in Bravo Murillo and Narvaez.
In parallel, this year Jorge and his family have enabled its pumpkin patch for the visit of families and curious who seek to experience Halloween in a different way: “during the visits many people learn how pumpkins are born and come to see them, they can paint them on the spot or take them home to decorate ”, Jorge Nieto tells Condé Nast Traveler.
"Also we have activities like sack races and photos can be taken in haystacks next to a scarecrow. We even take out a tractor and prepare juices, corncobs and other dishes for everyone. It is a good plan for families who want to enjoy a different morning in Aranjuez”.
George assures that the acceptance of his 'pumpkin patch' is greater every year . The pumpkins are already ready in August and September, but they last perfectly until Halloween except if it rains too much, since they can rot: "We sow in the month of February and in August they are ready, since they only require a lot of water and sun. Likewise, we recommend do not hit the pumpkins to keep them healthy, especially if you want them to decorate your house.”
CALABIZO: THE REINVENTION OF A GALICIAN CLASSIC
the pumpkin is a food that has always been present in the Spanish gastronomy , especially in communities like Galicia.
This was the premise that he moved to Keila Pousa , economist, Edurne Sendra agricultural engineer, and sofia bald , cook of a vegan restaurant, to found dungeon , a project that markets the vegan version of pumpkin sausage typical that Sofia's grandmother made in O Barco de Valdeorras (Ourense).
“The idea was to transform these sausages into 100% vegetable sausages to offer an alternative to people who do not consume meat or animal products” Keila tells Condé Nast Traveler.
"The process of making calabizo is similar to that of Galician pumpkin sausages, since we follow the traditional way of smoking and curing, but we change the meat for pumpkin pulp and the fat of the animal for olive oil.”
The girls from Calabizo make their product using Galician pumpkins that they roast and knead, while the rest of the ingredients such as onion, spices, extra virgin olive oil and garlic are prepared.
Once the mixture is obtained, it is stuffed into a cellulose casing of vegetable origin and they are hung in strings to be smoked in oak wood. Subsequently, the dungeons are cured and left to dry for a month in the dryers.
A unique delicacy that is born from the three pillars of Calabizo: the tradition (pumpkin chorizo as inspiration), The sustainability (organic farming and processing without additives) and the new technologies (controlled fermentation).
Keila assures that they feel very proud to recover and maintain a traditional recipe from their land at the same time that they are capable of innovating and adapting a typical product to new consumer needs, including the demand that always stands out on Halloween dates.
"At this time we notice an increase in orders from stores, restaurants and individuals. In addition to Halloween, Autumn is the time for pumpkins, it starts to get cold and they feel like spoon dishes They include chorizo for flavor. We offer an alternative for those who do not consume meat products.”
LOVE KLABAZA: THE PUMPKIN DECORATES (AND IS EATED)
Pumpkin in Spain has gone from being considered "food for the poor" to becoming a booming product. our country and Portugal are currently the two main European exporters of pumpkin , especially in the Nordic countries.
However, the Spanish population seems to be more familiar with this fruit through the Halloween party rather than its local consumption, unaware that Pumpkin is one of the most complete foods in our garden.
“Pumpkin is a healthy, sustainable and very versatile product . It is healthy because it has a high content of beta carotene, vitamin A, fiber and is very low in fat and calories. Sustainable because it is a local product with good conservation and also versatile because it is used for all kinds of dishes: side dishes, rice dishes, pasta or bread”, he tells Condé Nast Traveler. Cary Plaza, Director of Communication of Love Klabaza, an initiative born as a meeting point for all pumpkin producers in Spain that promote its consumption through events, recipes and initiatives.
Love Klabaza arises in the Valencian Community , the place in Spain that consumes the largest number of pumpkins thanks to famous dishes such as their pumpkin fritters (a must on dates like Fallas and All Saints' Day), roasted pumpkin or pumpkin pie, although its most current use is enhanced in creams.
"It is important to promote the use of pumpkin among adults, young people and a more senior population," says Cari. “According to a recent study by Love Klabaza, pumpkin consumption continues to be overwhelming in creams and purees in the child population.
Another challenge posed by pumpkin consumption is to go beyond a mere decorative use. In fact, half of the 900,000 pumpkins produced in the US each year for Halloween end up in landfills after Halloween.
“The variety of pumpkin that predominates in the United States at Halloween – the Howden, with a watery and fibrous texture – it is not edible, so it generates a great food waste” Cary continues. “One of our goals is to introduce types of pumpkin for Halloween such as the Butternut (peanut, due to its shape), since in addition to being used for decoration, it can be consumed.”
Perhaps autumn is not measured by the best festival of the dead, but by the one with less waste. because no one said that our vision of halloween It was the same but, sometimes, it can even be better.