We get lost among centuries-old temples
Rare is he who reaches sukhothai , located 450 kilometers north of bangkok , without a clear purpose: explore the ruins of the ancient city. And it is that knowing the past of a place, when it has meant so much for the country in question, is something fascinating.
And why do we say that Sukhothai was so important? Very simple: because 200 years in which it functioned as the capital of the kingdom of Siam, -that is, between the mid-thirteenth century and the end of the fourteenth-, were considered the country's golden age.
In this time the religious art and architecture were widely developed, the first Thai Writing, was instituted monarchy as a form of government or and the Buddhism was established as the official religion. After all, Sukhothai means 'Dawn of Happiness', and for a reason, right?
Aerial view of the former capital of the Kingdom of Siam
Of course, none of this would have been so resounding without the reign of Ramkhamhaeng, the most famous of the nine kings who occupied the throne at that time. Thanks to him, Thailand It would come to occupy an even larger territory than it does today. Finally, in 1438, the capital moved to Ayutthaya (80 kilometers north of Bangkok) .
Today, almost 600 years later, things have changed a lot. The current city of Skuhothai, or 'New Sukhothai', as it is popularly known, is nothing more than a bunch of messy alleys , while calm, in which the traditional food outlets, as in any other corner of Thailand, there are dozens of them.
Some also share the space guest houses, hostels, hotels and resorts. The same ones that accommodate travelers like us, eager for new experiences and adventures among ancient chedis and Buddhas. Some Street market , countless tuk tuks, motorbikes and a couple of colorful buses complete the print.
However, further on, 14 kilometers to be exact, is the Sukhothai Historical Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site. In other words: there lies our destiny. Because what interests us here is knowing what was that city like that so much prosperity and success gave the country.
Wat Mahathat, the largest temple in Sukhothai
The most practical way to get from the new area to the old one is by bus . Once at the gates, we get serious: it's time to decide how we want to explore the 45 square kilometers through which the complex extends. We opted for the bike : economical, ecological, and hey, that's how we take advantage and do a little exercise.
we do with the entrance of the central zone, which is the main one of all and in which are the best preserved ruins. Later, to access the north and east, we will have to buy a separate ticket.
Once on our two wheels, we begin the adventure. Although the journey is short: right away begin to appear before us the immense ruins of ancient temples -only in the central part there are 21 historical sites- and, without being able to avoid it, we ended up getting off to examine them on foot every few minutes.
wat mahathat, the largest temple of all those that exist in Sukhothai, It is a true revelation. Was this really the center of the city for so many decades? And people walked among these wonderful chedis so calmly?
Wat Sa Si, the temple on an island
We cannot stop thinking about how lucky we are to live surrounded by so much beauty and inevitably we take our mobile: this must be immortalized. Suddenly, oh surprise! turns out Sukhothai has a free Wi-Fi network throughout its complex.
At 198 shillings -this is what the stupas are called in Thailand, in this case in the shape of a lotus flower- and the beautiful figure of buddha of Wat Mahathat, another surprise follows: Wat Sa Si. Hopelessly we stop our bikes just by peeking the pond in which it is found. And it is not for less: on this occasion the ancient temple stands on an island which is accessed by a red wooden bridge, a detail that we love.
To the east of Wat Mahathat we come across the huge bronze statue of King Ramkhamhaeng, to which the Thais do not hesitate to pay homage with incense, flowers and prayers. And the temples follow one another. The stupas conquer us. The figures of Buddha, of all sizes and colors, make us fall in love. And the best of all: our adventure happens in almost complete solitude, the space is so wide that it is difficult to come across many more people.
Pedaling, it's time to cross the north zone, 500 meters beyond the wall that delimits the central part. After taking a look at Wat Chang Lom temple and its 36 figures of elephants, We go straight to a clear destination: Wat Si Chum.
The huge seated Buddha of Wat Si Chum
And what is so special about this temple? Hey friend, You will only understand this well the day you visit it in person… Still, we try to explain it to you.
To start with, here is a huge seated Buddha, possibly one of the most iconic figures in all of Thailand. With 15 meters high and made of brick and stucco, the details of his face and his fingers they are a wonderful thing.
Furthermore, this imposing figure It is half hidden between the few and high walls of the temple that, to this day and despite the passage of time, still remain upright. In this way, as we advance between walls and half-ruined stupas, we manage to glimpse the great treasure that awaits us.
The ideal from this point is pedal at our own pace making stops wherever we feel like, either to find some shade –which will be necessary, we warn you-, drink some water or have a small picnic.
Beyond, where it already begins the western part of Sukhothai, We decided to park the bikes and go up a path of slate tiles until we reach another of the surprises that the old capital holds. Is about Wat Saphan Hin and, from its position on the top of a hill, in addition to enjoy unforgettable views of Sukhothai, we will meet again, of course, with Buddha.
Sunsets, what a show!
Once back at the beginning of the route, it will not be surprising that the sunset has reached us. And good luck! It is then, when the complex is about to close, when the temples and the many figures of Buddha are illuminated and take on a completely magical appearance. An image to remember and take home.
If, on the other hand, we decide to end our journey a little earlier, there is no problem: Sukhothai has more attractions to discover besides its ruins and temples. For example, him Sangkhalok Museum , whose private collection of Sangkhalok pottery produced during the time of the Sukhothai empire, contains pieces over 700 years old, some of them coming from Vientam, China and even Myanmar.
Finally, and because at this point we are convinced that the body is asking you for something to fill the stomach with, a recommendation: at Ta Pui, a small local restaurant, they serve the best noodles in Sukhothai –noodles with sweet broth, pork, green beans and peanuts- from all over the area.
The best way to end the day. And the best way to say goodbye to the monumental Sukhothai. Tomorrow will be another day!
Sangkhalok Pottery