24 hours, eight plans and a cardiac espresso
THE MOST BEAUTIFUL BED AND BREAKFAST
Gorgeously romantic, secretive, and elegant, **BB22** sits behind a dilapidated neighborhood whose few residents let out their windows. tango melodies and passers-by dance to them at night. _(Largo Cavalieri di Malta, 22; HD: from €110) _
The best Bed & Breakfast, with a tango flavor
THE BEST ACCOMMODATION
Tucked away in the oldest part of town, Chez Jasmine has a small upstairs terrace overlooking a church where hundreds of swallows nest. the shop across the street sells the best dried fruit in the Mediterranean . (Vicolo dei Nassaiuoli, 15; HD: from €110, minimum stay of three nights).
With the vegetable terrace with essential views
THE BEST RESTAURANT
Modest, but highly prized and authentic, the Trattoria Torremuzza da Peppuccio It serves fresh swordfish grilled on street braziers and caponata with almond flakes, worth driving across town for. Then go get an ice cream ilardo , which is just around the corner. _(Via Torremuzza, 21; HD: from €40 for two) _
THE BEST PASTA
A two minute walk from the Massimo Theater is the tiny Pasticceria Amato. It serves the best ragù and also sardines with raisins on torchietti pasta. Among its guests, opera singers who want to eat well and some personalities. It is more of a cheap and tasty food canteen. The chef occasionally stops yelling at the guy who washes the dishes to help her granddaughter build her Peppa Pig castle while the diners don't look up from their plates. The smell of fresh basil reaches the street. _(Via Favara, 14-16; around €10 for two) _
THE COFFEE THAT WILL MAKE YOU SENSELESS
In Ideal Caffè Stagnitta (Via Discesa dei Giudici, 42-44) Coffee is served by men in white coats. Your double espresso, in a cup the size of a thimble, it will give you a heart attack, yes, for coffee lovers this place is a must. It only accepts cash payments.
Dare with your hearty double espresso
SECRET PALACE
In the Palazzo Ajutamicristo An unassuming, unassuming wooden door leads you to a pair of shady plane-tree filled mini patios. It dates back to 1485 and the arched terraces will make you think you are in Jaipur. It is very likely that you will find the owner, a baron, reading in the garden. He doesn't seem to care if people get in **(you don't have to pay to enter)**. _(Via Giuseppe Garibaldi, 23) _
The secret palace... out loud
THE STREET TO SEE AND BE SEEN
The Via Chiavettieri it comes to life from 5pm when the bar owners take out their tables and start serving wine and olives. At 11 pm the street is full and the atmosphere is electric. No one here goes home early.
AN INTERESTING AFTERNOON
The Addiopizzo movement was devised by brave students who organize guided walks in which they enlighten you about the history of organized crime in Sicily and the undoubted negative impact that even today remains in each of the stones of this city.
* This article is published in Condé Nast Traveler's February 81 issue. This number is available in its digital version for iPad in the iTunes AppStore, and in the digital version for PC, Mac, Smartphone and iPad in the Zinio virtual kiosk (on Smartphone devices: Android, PC/Mac, Win8, WebOS, Rims, iPad). Also, you can find us on Google Play Newsstand.
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A mix of character and grandeur