The illustrated map of Galician cheeses
It is difficult to find someone in Spain who does not know the Tetilla cheeses or perhaps those of San Simón da Costa , two of the most popular traditional Galician cheeses . Because, although Galicia does not reach the Asturian diversity, it is a great cheese producer.
However, there are many other traditional cheeses that are still great unknowns and, along with them, a whole series of new elaborations that are revolutionizing the panorama.
Is new generation of cheesemakers has brought to this world fresh ideas, lack of prejudice and, in many cases, a training in other European producing areas that has raised the average quality and has enriched the sector.
Currently, in addition to the four types of cheese covered by a D.O. (Tetilla, Arzúa-Ulloa, San Simón da Costa and Cebreiro) multitude of small dairies s strive to recover disappearing traditional cheeses or by elaborate in a new way.
never like until now the world of cheese it had been so mixed in the Northwest. It's the perfect time to hit the road Y explore the map of Galician cheeses , either by visiting the producers or through one of the small specialized shops that have opted for the quality production and they help it reach consumers on a daily basis or by getting to know them on the ground, using them as a pretext to discover spectacular regions.
we propose a tour of Galicia through some of its most interesting cheeses : from the mountain of Lugo, the impossible slopes of the Ribeira Sacra, from the spectacular forest that is the Fraga do Eume to the plains (yes, in Galicia there is also that) of the Terra Cha to discover the incredible diversity of a cheese panorama little known yet.
TOUZA VELLA
Why not start with the Ribeira Sacra? If there is a region that has all the ballots to be that tourist spot you were looking for, it may well be this one: the impressive canyon of the river Sil , the vines climbing up almost vertical slopes , one of the largest concentrations of Romanesque churches and monasteries on the peninsula, spectacular rural houses...
Touza Vella
and now too one of the great Galician cheese factories . In the place where the Ribeira Sacra becomes, little by little, the Massif Central Ourensano, an old meadow – the Touza Vella - today houses one of the few Galician farms dedicated to producing from goat milk.
Five hectares that can be visited by appointment and from which small wonders such as the Touza Vella Ripened , a raw goat's milk cheese, from their own herd , which goes on sale with 40 days of maturation.
O REXO
We continue on Ourense and with another rarity. Allariz is one of the most beautiful villages in the north of Spain and it has, on its outskirts, a little-known space with a unique character.
The Ecospace O Rexo , 3 km from the town, is a forest on the banks of the river Arnoia which was decorated years ago by the artist Agustin Ibarrola . Between rocks and colored trees it grazes all year round the flock of latxa sheep With whose milk this peculiar cheese is made on the same farm.
The result is a unique cheese in Galicia, buttery, which is marketed with 90 days of maturation and that it is worth looking for, despite its small production.
O Reixo
NIPPLE
speaking of tetilla cheeses We are talking about a type, not a brand or a producer. It is a traditional production protected by a protected designation of origin a and which currently has about 40 producers spread throughout Galicia.
It is surely one of the most popular Galician cheeses and more easily recognizable, due to its characteristic shape “ concave-convex conical ”, according to the official definition, although the name of the cheese gives a much clearer idea of its lines.
We have references of your production at least from the middle of the 18th century and it is currently one of the most consumed local cheeses outside of Galicia.
A good option to get to know them on the ground is to approach the Pazo de Anzuxao , a mansion built in 1713 , which for four decades has had a own cheese factory.
Nipple
MARIANNE
Muar Courts is a small family cheese shop located in a small valley on the outskirts of Silleda (Pontevedra) , in a region, O Deza , with spectacular landscapes such as those of the Fervenza do Toxa , a waterfall in the middle of a forest of ancient trees, or A Ponte do Demo , the bridge of the Demon.
Starting from the traditional cheeses made by the founders, the second generation of this dairy, German and Rita , has been exploring other avenues. In this way, along with Mimosa, their “country cheese” , the Cortes de Muar catalog now includes several unique cheeses, such as Marigold or the Mandy.
Marianne
Among them, the Marianne , which they make with raw cow's milk , with which 2.5 kg pieces are formed, which are later left to mature wrapped in hay for 3 months, which causes them to develop complex floral, herbaceous or even toffee aromas.
PAPRIKA CHEESE
In the zone of Monterroso, Antas de Ulla and Agolada , in the geographical center of Galicia, is traditionally made a unique cheese . It's about a country cheese classic, a cow's milk cheese which, in this case, is made adding paprika to the paste and that is later allowed to mature more than usual in other elaborations of the same family.
It is worth approaching this region, away from the main tourist routes, visiting the Os Pendellos old market, in Agolada , which some consider to be of medieval origin, and get a piece of this interesting cheese, either in one of the shops in Antas or Monterroso or by contacting, for example, the Diqueixa cheese factory , one of its main producers.
Queixo with paprika
GALMESANO
Despite being one of the newcomers, the Galmesano already has enormous popularity . It is made in Arzua , one of the Galician towns with greatest cheese tradition , but it is a cheese that has little to do with what has been made in the area all its life.
Is about large pieces of cooked hard pasta , which makes it a unique cheese in the north of Spain, which is left mature a minimum of 12 months before going on sale, normally in pre-cut wedges.
People often talk about it comparing it to other similar cheeses, particularly Italian ones, but I honestly believe that this devalues it. Galmesano is an interesting enough cheese on its own. without having to compare yourself to anyone else.
Galmesan
ARZUA-ULLOA
We are still in the area to talk about another of the traditional cheeses of Galicia , again protected by a Protected Designation of Origin which extends through several municipalities on one side and the other of the border between Lugo (district of Ulloa) and A Coruña.
Not only do the cheeses have to be made in the area, but the milk with which they are produced also has to come from local producers. The result are round, flat pieces, with a light, creamy paste and a slightly acid aroma that are generally marketed with little curing and that have a multitude of processors.
More than recommending one brand or another, what I will recommend on this occasion is to walk the area calmly , visit shops in Arzúa, in Melide, in Palas or in Friol come closer to the spectacular Monastery of Sobrado dos Monxes , go up to the Montes do Bocelo or Serra do Careón and then try the cheese, for dessert, after a classic menu in Chelo House (Arzúa) or local cuisine updated on A Parada das Bestas (Palas de Rei) before deciding on one manufacturer or another.
And, if you are interested in this type of traditional cheese from central Galicia, be sure to try the country cheeses that are made outside the denominations of origin, some of them of enormous quality.
If you don't know where to start, here's a hint: contact the Marques de Valladares cheese factory , in Vigo, and let Alejandro guide you . Or ask him, directly, about the spectacular Queixos da Josefa , which are made in the area and which he sells.
Arzua-Ulloa
XIROS
Other newcomers who have hit the nail on the head shortly after starting their operation. We talk about the Bisqato cheese factory , in the small village of Os Xiros, in Guitiriz (Lugo) , where Mary and Michael they make cheese by hand with the milk of cows from a neighboring farm.
One of the most interesting is the Xiros , a raw cow's milk cheese, with a soft paste and moldy rind, with that characteristic cave aroma, which has caused a small revolution in the local cheese scene and can already be found on the menu of restaurants such as Culler de Pau (O Grove) either Pampin Bar (Santiago).
Xiros
Mouro
The Eume area it is perfect for a getaway. pontedeume , with its small medieval center on the banks of the estuary, is the ideal base camp to explore As Fragas do Eume , one of the great natural treasures of Galicia, the Caveiro monastery or the small cove of Centroña , known as cove hawaii.
It is also the area to which you have to approach to know Capela Field , a cooperative that brings together 33 producers in the region and that, in addition to other high-quality references, such as his required (we'll talk about it another day, because although sometimes it's mistranslated, It is not the same as in Spanish it is known as cottage cheese. ), has in its catalog the Mouro, one of the most curious Galician cheeses in recent years.
El Mouro is a country cheese made with raw cow's milk , and which is sold with little maturation (between 20 and 30 days, depending on size). So far, nothing is out of the ordinary. However, it has the peculiarity of present a washed crust with coffee and cinnamon , which gives it its characteristic appearance and some unmistakable roasted aromas that remind me of those endless after-meals with a cheese in the center of the table, coffee, augardiente and a lot of conversation.
O Mouro
SAINT SIMON DA COSTA
The one with the cheeses San Simon da Costa is one of those hopeful stories of recovery. In the 80's and early 90's This traditional elaboration was not easy to find outside its production area and had very few producers.
30 years later it is, luckily, one of the most popular Galician cheeses and it is easy to find in any supermarket chain . This success is due to the implementation of a protected designation of origin in 1991 , but above all to the unique characteristics of a birchwood smoked cow's milk cheese perfect both to consume raw and to use in cooking.
Once again we meet a multitude of processors, so, in addition to visiting the markets and small shops in their production area, the region of A Terra Chá , it may be interesting to put yourself in the hands of an expert, such as the Arcadio Coroas cheese factory , in the lugo market , to guide us.
San Simon da Costa
CEBREIRO
Other traditional cheese more than, although it is made with Cow milk , is very different from any other of those manufactured in Galicia and has, in fact, more similarity with some Asturian elaborations.
the cheese of O Cebreiro was enormously popular until the middle of the last century . From then on, it began to lose producers to the point that at the end of the 20th century it was only manufactured for self-consumption, which seemed to announce its disappearance.
The creation of protected designation of origin Queixo do Cebreiro changed things and today there are already four producers who put on the market this characteristic cheese of the eastern mountain of Lugo.
The Cebreiro is a fresh cheese, grainy paste, Y aromas reminiscent of yogurt which is made with cow's milk and has a characteristic shape of a chef's hat and a marked acidity.
But, Is it always a fresh cheese? Although this has been the case in recent decades, the truth is that in the past larger pieces were made, which they were kept for months in the hórreos to mature them.
This disappeared tradition was recovered a few years ago by Carlos Reija , in front of the Queixeria Santo André , which not only has managed to bring back missing flavors but, in addition, he has achieved with it some of the most prestigious awards in the sector.
A great way to discover this unique cheese is by walking through the Primitive Way in the Lugo region of Castroverde , get to know the spectacular church of Vilabade , the woods next to Chamoso river or the village of Souto de Torres and then make an appointment with Carlos at his Barredo cheese factory to hear this story first hand.
Cebreiro
SAVEL
We finish the tour back to the Ribeira Sacra, although in this case we go to its northern area, on the banks of the Miño River, to learn about the project for the Airas Moniz cheese factory.
Richard and Anna , two of the three project partners, had their own cattle farm when they decided to take a risk and, together with Suso, the third of the founders, launched a cheese factory unlike any other in the area.
What they do here is raw cow's milk cheeses . But the big difference is that at Airas Moniz they bet on milk from Jersey cows, much fatter , who graze around the cheese factory.
The result is exciting pieces, such as the earth , capable of being familiar and innovative at the same time, or the Savel , a big blue cheese.
Although the cheese is fantastic, wherever it is bought, it is convenient that get closer to Chantada and listen to its history on the ground, taste it in the place where it is made, with the cows a step away, and then go down to the Minho canyon , visit a winery and marvel at the landscapes to better understand this little wonder.
Savel