Why you have to go to eat at the Costa da Morte in winter
Surely you have heard that the best seafood is in the months that have an R in her name. Although it may be more or less debatable depending on the species and the areas, the truth is that it is a great rule by which to start orienting yourself.
**And if we are talking about Galicia ** that means that you are going to have to come in that season when the sun is just a distant memory. The rain is almost guaranteed and the storms also have enough ballots to appear during your getaway, but if you get close between the end of November and February (yes, everyone with R) you will be able to try the best seafood.
And if you also dare to come to the Death Coast not only can you try anthological pieces, the kind that rarely get far from the unloading ports, but you will have a vision of a less crowded Galicia, of one of the wildest coasts in Europe and of a gastronomic offer that, although its hallmark is seafood, is capable of going much further.
The best seafood occurs in the months that contain the R
So you don't miss out, here are some of our favorites, a tour of fish, meat and traditional dishes that will make you understand why it is worth approaching the region even with wind or cold.
AS HERONS (Barizo, Malpica)
If you arrive from Coruña (or from Madrid on the A-6) you will cross the region of Brigantines before entering Costa da Morte. On the border between the two is the only restaurant recognized with one Michelin star in this northwest corner of the Galician coast.
Fish and shellfish from the Malpica fish market and some views of the breakers that will leave you with your mouth open. Try their stews , its rice with clams or its grouper with spinach.
If you like you can book one of the four rooms from the small hotel accommodation and wake up tomorrow with those views. Maybe then you will consider repeating and staying to eat.
As Garzas, fish and seafood that well deserves its Michelin star
** SEA OF ARDORA ** (Cottage)
If you continue west along the coast, after passing some Torres de Mens that look like something out of Game of Thrones and crossing the town of Ponteceso you will arrive at sea of ardora, a restaurant known for its up-to-date Galician cuisine and for its views of the Ría de Laxe and the mythical Monte Branco.
Don't forget to try their wild fish, such as grilled robaliza (sea bass) with sea urchin vinaigrette.
The stew of Mar de Ardora
** OR FRAGÓN ** (Fisterra)
Arriving at the ancient end of the world, hidden in a hillside village and with some overwhelming views, there is O Fragón, the third in discord in terms of up-to-date cuisine in this region.
This striking contemporary building houses a restaurant that surprises with its personal interpretation of the area's cuisine and a careful wine list focused on Galician producers.
OR CENTOLO (Fisterra)
But if you've come this far you'll surely want to try Galician seafood in its traditional version. And for that, there is nothing better than approaching the port of Fisterra (Finisterre in Spanish) and letting the O Centolo team advise you: from a crab caught a few kilometers from the restaurant to a good seafood rice or wild fish... the quality of the offer will make it difficult for you to choose.
ETEL & PAN (Fisterra)
Fisterra contains, however, some more surprises. In the heart of an old town that still retains its maritime character is Etel & Pan, a tiny project based on quality burgers, preserves and craft beers. And in a good vibe that is transmitted from the moment you walk through the door.
LESTON HOUSE (Sardineiro)
Leaving the cape behind, you cross the village of sardineiro, that in addition to a pleasant beach has a good gastronomic offer.
The reference here is, for more than 100 years, Casa Lestón, one of those traditional restaurants through which time does not pass and from which you cannot leave without trying its longueirón omelette (similar to a knife, but more delicate) or its mythical squid in ink.
A MORADA DA MOA (Or Pindo)
The stretch of coast that goes from Fisterra to the Rías Baixas It is one of the great unknowns, even for those who visit the region.
Dare to visit its endless beaches, to get closer to the O Ezaro waterfall, to go down to the old ones Porto de Quilmas salting factories or to stop at the small port of O Pindo to discover the culinary proposal of A Morada da Moa, a restaurant that combines traditional preparations with a selection of peruvian dishes . A ceviche with the best wild fish in Costa da Morte? Here it is possible.
FONTEVELLA (Caldebarcos)
Next to the longest beach in Galicia, with almost 7 km, the village of Caldebarcos has some of the best traditional restaurants in the area. The Fontevella has been among the most popular for years due to its ray caldeirada and to his rice with lobster.
PEGO HOUSE (Saint Cosme of Before)
Although many people pass by, A Costa da Morte also has an interior worth losing yourself in. Along with evergreen landscapes, rivers that seem to come out of some legend and churches of Romanesque origin, the area preserves a selection of simple eating houses , with no more pretensions than to feed from an excellent product and an uncomplicated kitchen.
A good example is Casa Pego, known as 'O Rei da Carne Á Pedra', famous for its stone-grilled veal and for its cod casseroles with cider.
SALVADOR HOUSE (Seoane, A Baña)
But if we talk about cod we have to talk about Casa Salvador. If we get strict, it is no longer within the limits of the region, but it will be a step if from it You go to Santiago. And, in any case, it is a detour of no more than 15 minutes.
worth approaching this mansion, open since 1920, in which for many the best cod in Galicia is served, They import directly from Iceland.
Call before, order your stone oven roasted cod, complete the menu with Kidneys At Jerez which are the other specialty of the house and enjoy an experience that has remained unchanged for 98 years.
Casa Salvador, a detour that is very worthwhile