It was before the pandemic when we found Camels Lloret , the perfect maison d'hôtes French. At that time we did not know that Cathy, from Connecticut (USA), together with her partner Jean Marie, had just acquired this spectacular house built in 1780 . It was during our visit, last September, that she told us about it.
The most traveled couple –she has lived in Paris, London and, of course, the USA– decided to look for a house in Occitania where they could carry out a personal project, beyond their current jobs, a maison d'hôtes, which in Spain we know as guesthouse . For those who are far from this concept, this type of accommodation is increasingly common in France, recognized for having a closer relationship with customers , with a maximum of five rooms and it does not have the full scope of a hotel (reception, emergency exits...).
Walk into Camels Lloret is to do it in a house purest french style , with small corners where even a chipped wall looks like a work of art. How can they create such bucolic environments in France?
Having breakfast in a maison d'Hôtes in Occitanie.
apparently the house it had been a B&B before , although it was in 2019 when Cathy and Jean Marie acquired it; They changed some furniture and gave it that warm touch that currently characterizes it.
After the pandemic they began to receive their first guests , the majority of national tourism, and since then his house has always had its doors open to all kinds of visitors, who, as they say, "have ended up being our friends."
Its five rooms with capacity for 10 adults and five children They represent exactly what you are looking for to get away from it all. In the land of vineyards it seems that silence is paramount and with the arrival of autumn, sleeping in their quilted beds with duvets is the closest thing to being in heaven . Each one has its own bathroom. Oh, but not just any one. Remember those old white bathtubs bathed in light from a large window? So are yours.
A bathroom like in the 18th century.
Breakfast and dinner (on request) are served in its garden, a completely green space decorated with a large table where you can share conversations. of course at breakfast there is no lack of bread and fresh croissants from the Boulangerie Pain des lys , in addition to fruit, butter with homemade jam and local cheeses . The most common is goat cheese.
We were lucky enough to share a dinner with the hosts where there was no lack of local wine, good cheeses and delicious homemade cakes. And going back to the garden, there is nothing like ending the day in their outdoor beds –yes, beds– to see the stars and enjoy the fire at midnight. Vines, fig trees and hydrangeas complete this unforgettable space that is the center of the house and connects all the rooms.
The house is open until the end of October , and is rented in its entirety during the winter months. Starting in April, already in the spring, it resumes its normal booking activity.
MONTRÉAL, IN THE LAND OF VINEYARDS
Camels Lloret It is located in a land of vineyards that extend on both sides of the road that leads to the town of Montreal.
The small town in the region of Aude It has 2,000 inhabitants and a historical tradition that dates back to the Bronze Age. Although, possibly, his most significant period was that of the Cathars in the 13th century . For those who are a bit confused, the Cathars were the purest version of Christianity (in Greek katharos means "uncontaminated"), who criticized and fought against the Churches of the Inquisition for not representing the purest values of religion. Most of the castles are preserved from that period. , such as Carcassonne, and other surrounding towns.
Today Montréal lives on tourism and wines. In its surroundings there are different domaines where you can do local wine tastings, such as the Domaine Le Fort . During the summer, each winery organizes an event with wine, music and food, so it is always advisable to visit the area in that season. Les Jeudis in Malpere is the name of this festivity that is celebrated in honor of the mountain range.
If you want to try some of the best, head to the Les Jardins de Vaissieres store in Villasavary where they sell a great selection of local produce.
It is worth getting lost in the town of Montréal and going up its streets to the church Collegiate Saint Vincent , a monument of historical interest dating from the 14th century. Until you reach it you will find small parks, houses with wooden doors and windows, carefully painted; plants and flowers, and a completely relaxed atmosphere. This is how a French village should be, right?
THE MANDATORY STOPS
As we have already said, Montréal is part of the route of the cathar peoples , and of these, there are few that do not preserve a castle from this medieval period in its surroundings. On this route, the obligatory visit must be to Carcassonne , the second most visited city in France, behind Paris, and a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
If you arrive by car it will be easy to park near the old bridge, where there are several free parking lots. On autumn (and spring) days it is worth going down to the river aude and stroll or sit in one of their picnic areas. On the left side of the river, there is the bastide st louis , built in 1290. Today it is the nerve center of the city where you can eat, go shopping and visit historical monuments such as the saint vincent church , the Neptune fountain, the Carmelite church, the Museum of Fine Arts or the Calvary Gardens.
Of course, you cannot miss a visit to the Canal du Midi, the work of Pierre-Paul Riquet and excavated in the 17th century to join the Atlantic and the Mediterranean in 240 km. Since 1810 it has flowed through the city, it was first used to transport goods and people, and today it is a beautiful tourist route. Also, since 1996 it is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
On the right side of the Aude river we find the jewel of Carcassonne, the Cité . The medieval town, still inhabited, It has 52 towers and two concentric walls that add up to 3 km in length. . It is open both at night and during the day, through the Porte Narbonnaise and the Porte d'Aude. Once inside its cobbled streets, it draws what the city of the Cathars was like in the Middle Ages with the Chateau (from the 12th to the 13th century), the Saint-Nazaire and Saint-Celse basilica, the different doors and museums such as the one dedicated to the Inquisition , or the surroundings of the wall that are well worth a walk.
La Cite, Carcassonne.
The entrance is paid and has all the sanitary measures, for example the castle cannot be visited without the Covid passport. Throughout the Cité there are restaurants and shops with nice souvenirs and select local products to spend the whole day.
If your stay in Camellas Lloret lasts longer, another must-see is in the town of Montolieu , Village du Livre et des Arts. A total of 17 bookstores make up this town dedicated to letters and also to the arts with numerous artist workshops.