A wonderful oasis of nature in Villa La Angostura, Argentine Patagonia
I close my eyes and find myself immersed in the bucolic nature of the Argentinian Patagonia . Although this time I am not in San Martín de los Andes or San Carlos de Bariloche, two of its most valued jewels internationally.
This time I get involved in a Patagonia off topic , in a village that is often relegated to other natural enclaves, but which actually has endless grandiose spectacles of nature for which it is worth traveling to almost the end of the world.
Plunged in the south of the Province of Neuquén, on the northwest of the famous Lake Nahuel Huapi , this wonderful conjunction of mountains, waterfalls, trails, national parks and rivers awakens.
Let's enter a Patagonia out of topics...
Arriving here is confirming those rumors that are heard in the area: Villa La Angostura is even more beautiful than the cities that lie around it . It is the tranquility, security, the kindness of its people, always with a smile on their face, calmness, giving way, something that does not always happen in this South American country, and I even dare to say that it may be the best version of what Argentina aspires to be (word of Argentina).
We start the adventure when we land on the Bariloche International Airport and from there we take a taxi to the Bariloche bus terminal. Another option is to hire a private transfer or rent a car to take us to our first accommodation, and then move around the essentials of the city, since these are far from each other. Of course: going from one place to another on foot allows you mingle with mother nature , something that you will not be able to achieve from the seat of a car.
The bus takes us along route 40, between fascinating landscapes and magnificent lakes, to the accommodation known as The Ramblas of Puerto Manzano . As we descend we come across a lonely road and leafy vegetation characteristic of the south.
One of the most privileged views of Villa La Angostura: Manzano Bay
We finally arrived, although we were unaware at the time of the steep ascent that would lead us to our room. But the effort almost always pays off, and suddenly we were in front of one of the most privileged views of Villa La Angostura: Manzano Bay.
With a colossal desire to explore the bay, we set out to walk it from end to end, almost alone, with a few birds that accompanied us as we skirted it and certain branches that hindered our path. The Manzano Bay landscape is an indisputable marvel , a perfect postcard where majestic mountains are combined with pine trees, native fauna, boats and a calm rarely seen.
But the stomach is noticeable and then it's time to stop and eat in Marinas Beach Bar . Here you can eat well, but don't expect dazzling gastronomy (beware, because there are few gastronomic places in this area that have a credit card).
After eating, we walk around Avenida Los Arrayanes to the Rio Bonito trailhead . We walked for about 40 minutes through a path full of gigantic bushes and beautiful local flowers such as lupines. Thus, until reaching the mouth of the Lake Nahuel Huapi.
The Rio Bonito Waterfall, Villa La Angostura.
At that moment Villa La Angostura becomes a panorama as prodigious as it is extraordinary : in the solitude and wildness of Playa Río Bonito rests the simplicity of a landscape that manages to embrace you, even from a distance.
From here, the sunset is your ally, the perfect picture to say goodbye to the sun and the perfect moment to undertake return . The signage in this area is not good enough, so try to descend before the last rays of the day hide.
At night the appetite guides us until nanuko , one of the restaurants at the foot of the route that, apparently, stands out for traditional pine pizzas and vegetarian options , but we discovered that it does not open its doors on Tuesdays, so we opted for a tiny –and picturesque by the way– place with delicious pizzas.
During the second day in the Puerto Manzano area we began the visit to the Rio Bonito Waterfall . We walked about 2 kilometers until we reached the place of ascent and then an additional 6 of a circular trail. Most usually do it by car, and it is perhaps the most advisable alternative, but I assure you that the Panoramic views that are obtained along the way will be worth it.
Once almost at the top, between formidable trees and branches, rests one of the most splendid waterfalls I have ever seen , a halo of water that converges in the background with absolute majesty.
We continue towards Cerro Bayo , a town that during the height of winter seems to have that splendor typical of ski lodges and that out of season resembles an abandoned * western * town in the United States. From there you can choose between descend in canopy during a journey in the middle of the forest and crossing rivers, or perhaps ride the chairlift to one of the extraordinary viewpoints of the city.
The views of Argentine Patagonia from Cerro Bayo
And why not have a hot chocolate with a slice of cake while succumbing to a stunning work of art from nature ? The last chairlift is at 5pm, so we jumped on it to go back.
On the third day we moved to the other end of Villa La Angostura, near the Lake Correntoso . We walked 300 meters from Casa del Lago to the viewpoint and let the liveliness of the colors that converge in the mountains on the horizon win us over.
We descend to the beach of the lake and remain in the place for almost an hour, just admiring how the sun hits the turquoise color of the water. During the summer or high season, January and February, this is one of the best areas to go for a swim, practice kayaking, windsurfing or just relax with a literary piece in your lap
Next to the beach and within the Nahuel Huapi National Park lies what is considered the shortest river in the world: windy ; that with its translucent dreamy waters coming from the Mirror Lake and Belvedere Hill it becomes a panoramic point from where you can take beautiful pictures.
From there it is possible to cross to the fishermen beach and rest in a picturesque setting with exceptional views of the lake.
The Correntoso River, Villa La Angostura.
And touch one of the culinary stops worthy of southern gastronomy , a type of cuisine that stands out for game dishes such as deer or wild boar (and also for lamb). We start with lunch Caprice , a place that makes you fall in love with its casual atmosphere, almost like an open-air stove and first-class gastronomic proposal.
Recommendations? The chicken curry sandwich or the lamb burger. But don't fill up, and try to get to dessert: his is share a chocolate cake (one of the richest desserts I've ever tasted).
Immersed in small houses and open from 7 pm to midnight lies the Epulafquen Brewery , a cabin with southern airs where snacks, pizzas and craft beers, in addition to the attention, are their specialty.
In addition, it is almost mandatory that Let's enjoy one of the sunsets of the journey from this Social Club . A viewpoint/restaurant that confronts us with the immensity of the city of Villa La Angostura. The only thing to keep in mind is that the menu is a bit short, so it is advisable to eat something before heading to this place.
The magical setting of Los Arrayanes National Park.
Villa La Angostura continues to surprise us with unprecedented panoramic views that we enjoy during the Belvedere Ridge hiking trail , or with the greatness displayed by the Dora and Santa Ana Waterfall , although in this case it is necessary to do paperwork to reach them since they are crossing the Chilean customs. And that crossing should take place before 12 noon ideally.
A separate chapter deserves Route of the Seven Lakes , that iconic journey between the cities of Villa la Angostura and San Martín de los Andes that we must travel at least once in our lives. Finally, it is almost impossible to forget the Los Arrayanes National Park , with an incredible 12-kilometer journey that can also be reached by hiring one of the boats that navigates Lake Nahuel Huapi.
Sadly we were not able to visit it due to the imminence of the pandemic that was becoming more and more latent in Latin America , so we catch our flight back to Bariloche and finally to Buenos Aires.
I close my eyes during last sunrise in Bahía Mansa and Bahía Brava , two of the essentials that we still have to discover in Villa La Angostura. And I know that everything is about to change; in fact, everything has changed. I cling to the panorama that I burn in my retina
And I wish with all my strength that soon you can see yourself involved in the landscapes and in the serenity that this town has to offer, throw yourself into the adventure as we used to do before, perceive how the magic of Patagonia Argentina seeps through your senses , appreciating freedom, respecting and combining with nature as one.
We say goodbye to Villa La Angostura, at least for now...
WHEN TO GO
The high season takes place during the months of January and February. And although it is not full of tourists like the most renowned cities of the Argentinian Patagonia , there are usually more people than usual. So if you want to explore this corner alone but still with good weather, March is a good month to travel.
HOW TO GET
Take a flight from the main Spanish airports to the Minister Pistarini Airport in Ezeiza , Buenos Aires. Once there, make sure you have purchased an internal connection in advance to Bariloche Airport. Aerolineas Argentinas, Jet smart, Latam and Fly Bondi are some of the airlines that will take you to your destination. The latter is a low cost company with a very good service (keep in mind that their planes take off from Palomar, another town in the province of Buenos Aires).
**WHERE TO SLEEP **
Las Ramblas de Puerto Manzano: from the first moment this place fascinates with idyllic views of Bahía Manzano. To this we add the serenity that is breathed here, a breakfast with views towards the mountain and the possibility of sleeping in a bubble hotel appreciating the stars of southern Argentina . Although you can also rest in one of its three dream suite styles: junior, superior and master deluxe.
WHERE TO EAT
To enjoy a delicious lunch, snack or dinner in the Puerto Manzano area, it is advisable to go to the Manzano Resort restaurant , with privileged views of the bay, various options to taste and a dreamy chocolate cake. In the small center of Villa La Angostura there are many options for lunch or dinner. We highlight Lagos Brewery , recognized for dishes such as lemon trout, pizzas and craft beers. But here, the important thing is the warmth with which the Andolfi family will attend you.