Château d'Orion
The screenwriter Peter Viertel was burning Pamplona with Hemingway, Ava Gardner and Tyrone Power –The shooting of Fiesta took them there, which must have been a ditto– when the wave came to him that in Biarritz, two strides from the running of the bulls, there was enough foam from the days to make the most Californian of surfers happy.
He told his friend Dick Zanuck, son of the then vice president of 20th Century Fox, who accompanied the production team, and there they went with two boards. No one had ever seen anything like it to date. Neither surfers, nor boards, nor a couple of crazy people facing the virulent Atlantic hangover with their bodies, even worse than that of some San Fermin festivals.
Moon Bridge, in Salies-de-Béarn
The 50's were over and Biarritz was already well known as epitome of aristocratic summer, so decadent, so full of carpets, Napoleonic mansions and striped sweaters. But he lacked surfing, that with which today, decades later, the coast of the French Basque Country wakes up every day in pursuit of a new wave. Let's say nouvelle vague, that everything in French is always more Godard.
The trip that illustrates this article does not talk about surfing, but yes of that living that, even when you move away from the roar of the ocean, continues to smell of fresh saltpeter, to old traditions contemplated behind the net curtains of phenomenal villas, to loaves brimming with foie, to grilled sardines with butter from Saint Jean de Luz, to pediment sunsets and glasses of Irouléguy, that robust and bravado tannat grape, one would say so Basque in the happiest and strongest sense of the term.
And, how can we ignore it if that's what we came for, the French Basque Country is also flea markets antiques, bric-a-brac and marchés aux puces (again the French) that make it an obligatory matter to arrive by car, if you rush me in a pick up, because the desire to buy there is no cabin suitcase that supports it.
Go, run, but when you come back keep the secret: don't tell anyone where you found that uncorrupted Wassily by Marcel Breuer or how you haggled for that Cahiers du Cinema from August '61; yes, in which Belmondo appears stroking Anna Karina's hair. What a Party everything and what a Godard.
Inside the Château d'Orion
WHERE TO SLEEP
Château d'Orion _(L'Eglise, Orion) _
Tobias and Elke are the unbeatable hosts of this château where you may coincide with one of the concerts or workshops scheduled each season.
L'Auberge Basque _(745, Vieille Route de Saint-Pée, Saint-Pée-sur-Nivelle) _
If the name already invites you not to go out... imagine that we tell you that it belongs to Relais & Châteaux and that its sublimated Basque cuisine restaurant has a Michelin star. Watch out for brunch.
Hotel du Palais _(1, Avenue de l'Impératrice, Biarritz) _
It would be inexcusable to leave out the most emblematic hotel in Biarritz and one of the key places to understand the impeccable savoir faire of the area. The former residence of Napoleon III and Eugenia de Montijo will never go out of style.
Basque Culture Week in Saint Jean de Luz, held in February
WHERE TO EAT
the legend _(5 Rue de l’Abbé Duplech, Sauveterre-de-Béarn. Telephone: +33 986 68 99 47) _
Sustainable restaurant that only serves regional products and natural wines from France. Very good!
Chez Albert _(51, bis Allée Port des Pêcheurs, Biarritz) _
A classic brimming with fresh fish from the area.
L'Impertinent _(5, Rue d'Alsace, Biarritz) _
Fabian Feldmann brings his German temperance to the richness of the area: fish, organically grown vegetables and fantastic breads. One Michelin star.
Le Bar du Marche _(8, Rue des Halles, Biarritz) _
Always fun, always overflowing, and always perfect for have some wines and a foie on the way back from the beach. Word.
WHERE TO BUY
Pâtisserie Charrier _(Rue Léon Bérard, Sauveterre-de-Béarn. Telephone: +33 559 38 55 10) _
His speciality, the medieval, is a crunchy and addictive cookie with chocolate mousse. And yes, there are chocolates. And what breads.
L'Épicerie Sans Fin _(Rue Léon Bérard, Sauveterre-de-Béarn. Telephone: +33 986 60 56 61) _
Wonderful specialty store regional products.
Tissage Moutet _(Rue du Souvenir Français, Orthez) _
Centennial mill where you will find fantastic tablecloths and linens for the kitchen.
Salies-de-Bearn Thermal Baths _(Cours du Jardin Public, Salies-de-Bearn) _
They are the thermal baths of what is known as the 'city of salt', which even has a museum dedicated to it. In September they celebrate the Festival of Salt with salted fish market, dances and traditional songs.
Street markets
The Atlantic Pyrenees is traditionally an area for buying and selling antiques and markets. On the web you have the calendar and locations.
The Pyrenees-Atlantique is an area for buying and selling antiques and markets
***** _This report was published in **number 132 of Condé Nast Traveler Magazine (October)**. Subscribe to the printed edition (11 printed issues and a digital version for €24.75, by calling 902 53 55 57 or from our website). The October issue of Condé Nast Traveler is available in its digital version to enjoy on your preferred device. _