A guide for lovers of idyllic towns and good food
Or quite the opposite, the most remote and cozy places to discover the Basque cuisine in all its essence. Because if you are a lover of good food and cannot conceive of a trip that is not gastronomic, the Pays Basque is, without a doubt, your destination. Bon appétit!
On the shores of the Cantabrian Sea, **20 minutes from the glamorous Biarritz ** and less than 20 kilometers from our country, is Saint John of Luz — Saint-Jean-de-Luz in French—, a mestizo city, full of contrasts. An assembly between Basque and French culture, whose seafaring past is still valid.
In its entirety, what became the base of the Basque corsairs in the 17th century groups eleven villes et villages located between the mountains and the sea. And despite the fact that sports, nature and history are some of its main tourist attractions, gastronomy has become another of the fundamental pillars of this region.
From fishing with specimens as tasty as the cod, hake, red mullet and mussels ; to the characteristic Pyrenean meat such as the recently recovered Basque pork or cheeses based on raw goat's milk such as " Ardi Gasna ”. And to finish off such typical sweets as the Basque cake —gâteau basque, if you want to be connoisseur— or the legendary macarons. Definitely, a delicious cuisine, of quality and more varied than what we can find in other areas of the country. So grab your cutlery because our culinary adventure begins now.
Olhabidea
SAILING VOCATION
Being a coastal town, it is not surprising that the fish and shellfish monopolize a large part of the restaurants and culinary offerings in the area. As the fishermen used to live near the port, it is not difficult to find an extensive list of places in its vicinity, specifically in Rue de la Republique.
However, our favorite addresses are just a few minutes from Saint Jean de Luz. With its unmistakable red awnings, is ** Chez Margot ** _ (41 Avenue du Commandant Passicot, Ciboure) _, run by one of those matriarchs as wise and resilient as the sea, and her son behind the kitchen. A tavern where white fish is king, cooked in an infinity of sauces and accompaniments such as soup Ttoro fish, grilled scampi or hake in green sauce.
And what would a maritime destination be without a good beach bar? On the beachfront, with the waves breaking by your side, is La Guinguette _(Chemin D'Erromardie, Saint-Jean-de-Luz) _. A beach retreat with vintage furniture and surfer motifs where to stop along the way with the best grilled squid, shrimp ceviche, salads and hamburgers.
The surfer and vintage beach retreat
LIKE AT HOME
One of the best qualities of San Juan de Luz is the charm exuded by those small towns that we can find in its demarcation.
saree —awarded as one of the most beautiful villages in France— and Urrugne are some of them. Surrounded by the greenery of the landscape and accompanied by the singing of the birds, we can find Olhabidea _(Chemin Olha, Sare) _, a Basque farmhouse from the 16th century, which maintains the tranquility and hospitality of a private house.
A multitude of flowers, paintings and sculptures decorate this boutique hotel run by two brothers and which houses a delicious restaurant both for its menu and for its concept. A delicate and elegant cuisine, with a menu that varies according to the season and depending on the market, but always with fresh products and local suppliers.
Olhabidea
A philosophy very similar to Farm Lizarraga _ (550 Chemin de Lissaraga, Urrugne),_ the restaurant run by Stephane and Veronique Poulin. A 17th century farmhouse, flanked by meadows and blond cows, still retains that country spirit with a touch of sophistication. For summer days, its terrace is an enviable place to savor creative cuisine, but based on products from the region.
Farm-to-plate cuisine
GOURMET SHOPPING
You can never miss a route of gourmet shops on a gastronomic trip. In the center of the city there are countless perfect boutiques to take a little piece of Saint Jean de Luz with you or, and by the way fill the fridge and the entire kitchen if necessary. A mandatory stop is the main market, Les Halles , open every day of the week —although its strongest days are Tuesdays and Fridays—, perfect for discovering all the keys to Basque gastronomy.
Although if what we are looking for is specialization , Le Comptoir du Pecheur _(Quai François Turnaco, Ciboure) _ with its canned sardines, tuna, bonito and regional products based on espelette peppers, for authentic connoisseurs.
While for meat lovers, **Pierre Oteiza** _(10 Rue de la République, 64500 Saint-Jean-de-Luz) _ boasts a wide selection of hams du kintoa, salami, pork-based sausages Basques; as well as foies gras and sheep, goat or cow cheeses from the French Pyrenees. And to pair? Our proposal is a very particular wine whose vinification process takes place at the bottom of the sea. Your name? strategy _ (5Bis Chemin des Blocs, Ciboure) _, where Emmanuel Poirmeur keeps his secret safe.
This shopping moment cannot end without going through the temples of French pastries: Maison Adam _(4 Place Louis XIV, Saint-Jean-de-Luz) _ has been winning fans since 1660 thanks to its acclaimed macaroons, served at the wedding banquet of Louis XIV and Maria Theresa of Austria, and its traditional Basque pastries; Y Paris _(9 Rue Léon Gambetta, Saint-Jean-de-Luz) _ with its originals mouchus —'kiss' in Basque— of almond, pistachio, chocolate, praline and coffee, as well as their kanougas, its unmistakable sweet candies and sign of the house.