The magic of San Sebastian.
Donostiarras refrain from reading this article, we are going to fall into topics. I have no doubt. But let me tell you that this is common in all urban mortals, you are not affected by any rare disease.
It turns out that from so much transit through our cities they end up seeming clichés to all of us, even if we love them with all our soul.
San Sebastian is elegant, modern but true (without cheating or cardboard). Nothing superficial, fresh and pulsating. If you are a foreigner like me, let me tell you that in this city you will stop feeling it a few hours after arriving. , because -and leaving aside the clichés- the Basques will welcome you as one more.
Newcomer, pot pintxo mate , here is the manual to know yet another version of the Pearl of the Bay of Biscay. San Sebastián without pretensions, without haste but without pause. Here we go!
Miramar Palace.
1. A WALK THROUGH LA CONCHA BAY: FROM THE KURSAAL CASINO TO MIRAMAR
The first thing you will do when you arrive in San Sebastián is to visit Playa de la Concha (whether you like it or not, you will). look where you look at it, at any time and regardless of the inclement weather or the vagaries of the tide, it will be beautiful.
From its famous railing -made by Juan Rafael Alday in 1916- you will see the Santa Clara Island . Few beaches can boast of having their own island.
1,300 meters in which so many centuries of history fit... ** San Sebastián was the summer resort of Queen Elizabeth II, ** who came for medical prescription to alleviate her skin problems, it was then that the city experienced growth in fame and buildings. The aristocracy and the Belle Époque they seized it, leaving an essential trail. In 1912, La Perla Talaso-Sport would open its doors, right on the seafront.
If you choose to explore it on foot or by bicycle, we recommend that you pay attention to the following stops along the way. To your right with your eyes on the sea, you will find Alder Berry, a beautiful park from the 19th century that precedes the majestic City Hall of San Sebastián . You can continue to the Marina, where you will find the Kursaal Casino ; or change course and continue on the left side of the promenade.
At this end you will find the sculpture ( San Sebastián likes to have them outdoors ) ' Tribute to Fleming' by Eduardo Chillida. You will end the Bay at the Palacio de Miramar, a British-style building that touches the Ondarreta beach in the Old Quarter. It is necessary that you get here because it is a pleasure to rest in its green gardens, or to enter and admire how the summer residence of the Queen Maria Cristina, Alfonso XIII and Juan Carlos de Borbón.
Maritime port and Mount Urgull.
two. TO THE CONQUEST OF ITS MOUNTAINS
The people of San Sebastian love nature and take care of it. Its mountains are its precious asset, the lungs of the city and the guardians of the coast, who have protected it for centuries although now they have lowered their guard.
From one end to the other you will find: Mount Urgull, Mount Igueldo and Mount Ulía. One of the most beautiful panoramic views of the city will be at the top of Mount Urgull, where all the people of San Sebastian go up to celebrate their festivals and the only point from where you will see the four beaches.
The monument that crowns it is the Sacred Heart together with the Castle of La Mota ; and on the slopes of the mountain, are the Walk of the Priests , the Naval Museum, the Sports Port, which is the gateway to “Lo Viejo”, the Empty Construction, the Aquarium and the Paseo Nuevo. Attention to the latter because it is one of the most beautiful areas of the city, there to see the waves in action is quite a spectacle.
Igueldo, the tallest of all, supervises from the other end of the Bay next to the sculpture of the Wind Comb, emblematic symbol of San Sebastian . To get here you can opt for the Funicular, in operation since 1912.
To the east of the city is Ulía, old watchtower for whale watching and a Natural Park in itself. At its feet, you will find another of the most famous outdoor sculptures in San Sebastian, The Dove of Peace , which symbolizes the power of dialogue and words.
Learn to surf in Pukas.
3. SURFING (OR TRYING TO) IN LA ZURRIOLA
If in the old days young people jumped into the sea in search of whales, now they do so in search of waves. ** Zurriola beach ** is the most bohemian beach in San Sebastian and, in my opinion, the most vibrant of all.
It is something like a living postcard full of colorful surfboards and surfers, who do not mind walking barefoot through the Gros neighborhood until they step on the sand with them under their arms and their hair blowing in the wind.
You should at least try to catch one wave before you leave this town. , to which you will already be thinking of going back in a hurry because this surf thing is addictive. There are several schools in the area, but head to Pukas Surf Eskola, one of the veterans. You can rent everything you need to get started in this sport, or ask for some classes to enjoy it to the fullest.
The best time to learn is September , although true surfers are not afraid of bad weather or fog. If we have convinced you, remember that the sea belongs to everyone but the waves do not... Never, ever steal a wave from a surfer or you'll see Poseidon.
Let's go for pintxos!
Four. EVERYTHING IS A COME AND GO TO "THE OLD"
In the old Town of the city you will come across its most emblematic buildings: the Basilica of Santa María del Coro, the church of San Vicente, the San Telmo Museum... But, above all, what you will find will be vidilla, what has been setting.
Stand between the street or Kalea August 31 , the Constitution Plaza, "the Trinity" and let the party begin. Come here when you need to eat, drink and have a good time.
What can "The Old" do for you? You can start with a zurito (small short beer), a txikito (small glass of red wine) or making a note of your good understanding and asking for a txakoli. In each bar you will have a pintxo and continue the round.
At La Viña, apart from the cheesecake, you will try the anchovy and cheese cone, at Casa Gandarias, the txangurro (crab), in Bar Antonio, Cantabrian anchovy pintxo , in Rojo y Negro , the prawn skewer in tempura with cheese; still in Borda Berri eating the cod pil pil, while the San Sebastian classic, the gildas (anchovy, piparra and olive) you should try them at Bar Néstor, and the avant-garde pintxos at A Fuego Lento or Iturrioz.
San Sebastian, how beautiful!
5. YOU WILL LOVE THE TURBOT
This city has been named as Best Gastronomic Destination in the world in 2017 and honors this distinction, whether you are meat or fish you will be treated first.
Within a radius of 25km you will find 17 Michelin stars : three are in San Sebastian with Arzak, Akelarre and Martin Berasategui . continue with Mugaritz and the two stars of him; Kokotxa, Viewpoint of Ulia, Zuberoa Y Amelia , with a. In Hondarribia, the alameda restaurant , and in Getaria, Elkano , both with a Michelin star.
We stay with ** ElKano and his select cuisine of the sea ** for this getaway. Take a car and drive along the coast to get to the town of Getaria. The road route is a parade of landscapes that you cannot miss. Once there, you will understand that union that exists between the sea, the embers and the people of San Sebastian. Although they also do meat, our recommendation is fish because in ElKano they are turbot specialists.
This season is being very good for fishing in the area, which means that fish such as turbot are well fed, ergo they are much tastier. Invite the party to some good kokotxas, roasted red peppers and some crazy homemade desserts.
6. EVERYTHING GOOD STARTS IN GROS
As we have already warned you, this is the liveliest and youngest neighborhood in the city. In Gros you will find the train station, the Kursaal Palace , headquarters of Zinemaldía , the San Sebastian Film Festival , Y Sagues , the meeting point for young people to watch movie sunsets, as well as alternative shops.
We could say that Thursdays are the big day for Gros because they literally go out to the street to go for pintxo pote. You don't have to wait, start the day in its cafeterias having breakfast, for example in ** Sakona Coffee Roaster , Antojitos ** and in Belgrade .
You can eat something more casual, açaís bowls have become very fashionable in the city . In these places you will eat them with pleasure: Green Map , alabama coffee and the Pepa Fruit Tavern . if you like the craft beer It is the neighborhood where you can try it, for example in Kañabikaña.
Ayete Palace.
7. YOU WILL BE BLESSED TO HAVE COME TO THE MIRAMÓN PARK
Saint Sebastian It has two large parks, in which you will think you are in Switzerland or some Nordic city, but dear readers, it is San Sebastián once again. If you like tranquility, greenery and stately buildings Miramón and Aiete will be your neighborhoods.
You will find the old cider houses and farms from the 19th century, as well as the Science Museum, the Roman amphitheater, the Arbide Towers and the Palacio de Aiete , one of the most valuable neoclassical buildings in the city. It was built by the Dukes of Bailén in 1878, and until the construction of the Miramar Palace, it was the summer residence of Isabel II and Alfonso XIII.
Also that of Francisco Franco; They say that from here he left for his famous meeting with Adolf Hitler in Hendaye. It is now occupied by the House of Peace and Human Rights.
Take the bicycle, one of the favorite means of transport to get around the city, ** take a walk through Miramón Park ,** where the Basque Culinary Center is located. You can eat at a reasonable price if you book early.
Santa Clara at sunset.
8. THE KAYAK OF VICTORY
Sport is one of the main activities in the city, and as we have said that we would fall into clichés, you have to practice it. Take a kayak and go to Santa Clara Island, if the fog allows it, it will be an unforgettable experience.
It is the fourth beach of San Sebastián, declared Historic Center of National Interest 40 years ago. Although it may not seem like it, its beach exceeds 30 meters in length . There you will find all kinds of services, and even a picnic area for lunch.
9. LIVE EGIA LIKE AN AUTHENTIC DONOSTIARRA
They say he is emerging neighborhood of Donosti . You want to know why? It is the hive of culture, theater and music of the city. For example, you will find the Tabakalera , turned into a International Center for Contemporary Art , which also has one of the best views from its viewpoint.
Without a doubt, this is another of the neighborhoods where you can become an expert in pintxo pot or the txikiteo, especially on Thursdays.
Charming facades in the city.
10. DISCOVER HIS SENSITIVITY FOR ART
San Sebastián likes art and culture. And you? We have already revealed some of the city's artistic references, but there are many more. Basque culture goes a long way, if you want to delve into it you can go to Albaola, the Basque naval maritime factory, where you will understand part of its roots with the sea, or to Koldo Mitxelena, the library.
if you search contemporary art galleries , we recommend Arteko and Ekain Arte Lanak . There are also many festivals that come together here, not only the jazz festival and the San Sebastian Film Festival.
For example, in January they celebrate Dock of the Bay, a documentary film festival, while in April they hold the Human Rights Festival.
The Hotel Maria Cristina.