Asturias of my loves
A landing in the clouds and poof! The houses scattered in the intense green , the sea, the beaches... The promise of having arrived once again at my house, to Paradise. To the world of the days you live in the four seasons in 24 hours. To sleep in August with quilt and feel a sun that makes the green shine, the white limestone of the Picos de Europa and the blue of each wave. I know I have a long time ahead of me. happy days and beauty.
Hidden behind the wall of the Cantabrian Mountains This land is found that leaves touched those who venture to pass "A few days up north." They will always want to come back. Well, there are those who flee in terror so much rain, but she protects us from the overcrowding and the buildings on the front line. The rain is the (modest) price to pay for this Natural paradise.
Arriving in Ribadesella and getting into my car, starting it up and starting to drive along the roads surrounded by oak and beech. Smell and feel the moisture. I'm in love! Every time I go back I am fascinated by the landscapes and I think that everyone should see this. That's why I enjoy inviting friends and guiding them so much. I do want to hear a “oooh, how nice!” every bit. It is worth that in Asturias we say "how handsome" because the word "pretty" doesn't exist, but if you say it like that outside the Principality they think you're doing the cool And nothing further.
A "good morning" between mushrooms and cowboys
why will we be so patriotic the Asturians? The food, the authenticity of its people, l to cider ?... I do not know. Maybe the smell of cuchu ? I like it because, when I perceive it... it is because I am there, between "praos". Also the sound of bagpipes in the background or a flyer that when it explodes warns you of some party in a nearby town.
I was born in Oviedo, but the first years of life I spent in Cangas de Onis where part of me lives family . When we were six years old we moved to Ribadesella , a very close fishing village where the Seal river. There I spent some happy years living very close to the Santa Marina beach. As soon as we turned 12 we moved to the Empordà , in the north of Catalonia, but every Easter, Christmas or summer we went back to what I considered my home , the place where he belonged.
I was lucky to do many friends in adolescence, a gang that always got together (and gets together) on vacation , where nothing worries you and you only think about have fun and enjoy eternal days. when june came we hugged excited and imagined everything that was to come. so many afternoons pedaling whistling down the roads to get to the beaches where we and the seagulls were the only ones. We were ahead paellas, bonfires and guitars, pilgrimages with colored lights, summits where we rest excited and silent before those landscapes. that group of friends stay together, but I almost enjoy even more bringing new people to discover my Asturian world, my other life there.
The imposing cliffs of Guadamía
Asturias offers multitude of plans, many of them around nature and gastronomy. You can go to wild beaches, take walks in the mountains, climb, go to the river, to the lakes... we have almost everything, although of course desert you will not find.
Being on the beach and at the same time being able to see the snow it is something very special. Even in summer you can see the "fridges", small islands of snow that, protected by the shade, are able to withstand the "hottest" months. The orange tree of Bulnes It is one of the best known and most attractive mountains in the entire range. It is not the highest, but it is the one that generates the most be climbed. Its vertical walls and the orange rock color gave it its name, although in the area it is better known as the Picu Uriellu.
Pedro Pidal, Marquis of Villaviciosa, was the first to venture to climb the jewel of the massif central in august 1904. Accompanied by The Cainejo , a shepherd from the area, was filled with courage and in a historic rope on the north face they conquered this unique place in the world.
I had been up to the base many times, which requires a three hours walking. And it can be done, although in the last zigzag you're going to sweat Seeing that giant up close is something Awesome, a stone fang so vertical that takes your breath away And it makes you feel tiny.
right there there a shelter run by Tomás for many years and where you can eat and sleep. Many climbers spend the night before starting to the summit. Yes, they are rooms for about twenty people , so you still have to wear anti-snoring plugs.
Top of the Naranjo de Bulnes or Picu Urriellu
Climbing it was always one of my dreams and on an excursion with friends one summer many years ago I was hypnotized looking at it and I told him: “One day I will!” So it was. All thanks to my friend Jimmy, who was the one who organized it and helped me. We sleep in the shelter and we get up at dawn to try to fulfill it. Harness, rope, carabiners, climbing shoes... and a lot of hope . In addition, we were accompanied by a spectacular day . The truth is that in the first step we did, already with the rope and all the material, I looked down and thought: "Oh, maybe I can't do it." I guess it was the nerves from the height...
But I gave him strength and we continued. then everything was easier and before noon we were upstairs watching the Cantabrian. A sea of clouds and the two of us sitting alone, admiring the amazing landscape accompanied by the Virgin of the Snows, a sculpture that lives on the summit. Thanks Jimmy!
we go down rappelling the vertical wall (what an impression) and, although the rope got hooked twice and Jaime had to go up to release her, we arrived safe and sound . Happiness. My next challenge is to climb The Pidal , the first route by which the 2,519 meters more than a century ago.
Another must-see place is the Lakes of Covadonga , where you will find Enol and Ercin , which in winter reach freeze . My grandmother Emma told me that when she was young they went there to skate and ski. One day they were spending the day and she said to my grandfather: "Hand me the camera!" He tossed it to her flush with the ice as if he were playing curling and, suddenly, whoops! goodbye camera, sank in the lake . I can imagine their faces!
Hotel Áliva, on the upper level of the Fuente Dé Cable Car
Many of you have heard of the International descent of the Sella , better known as The Festival of the Canoes , Or simply “Les Piragües” . Paddlers from all over the world come to compete in this race that takes place in the last 15 kilometers from the Sella River. Around the competition a big party is organized in which people wear colorful necklaces and go down to the river to see the exit.
It's one of those moments more exciting of the year and, I admit, at the moment they shout "Puxa Asturias!" and the race begins it always gets me goosebumps. It's amazing to see all the athletes running and rowing while the public cheers and applauds them. Something worth living at least Once in life, definitely.
Torimbia Beach
as I usually am traveling throughout the year , there is something that I love and I feel lucky to be able to do: spend a long term at home. Without moving, without planes or airports, just calm. Holidays! I don't need to go anywhere else I do not change it anywhere in the world. I enjoy putting on a sweater days when the weather is bad. going to the cheese festival in Cuerres or dancing around the mountain of jackets that is created in the pilgrimages. There is no type of party that I like more. Neither fashion, nor cinema, nor festivals... a village festival is the most funny what's up. Seniors sitting on their plastic chairs watching the orchestra, kids running j young people... everyone mixes and it doesn't matter if you live all year in the town or come from outside, There's no difference between people or classes. This is how it should always be.
Many times we run away to the hórreo of my great friend Bilbo. Located at the foot of a beach with no neighbor for miles, It is an oasis to disconnect everything and, probably, the place on Earth where you sleep best and where more shooting stars I've seen. There are so many corners that I consider "my places", so many beaches bathed in green ... But, above all, there is a magical place, where my parents fell in love , where I go whenever I can and so special... that I keep it to myself. Wait for me Asturias; early I will stay with you forever.
The three
WHERE TO SLEEP
1 ** Las Caldas Thermal Villa **. What was born in 1776 as a Spa is now one of the most exclusive resorts dedicated to wellness. It brings together disciplines such as medicine, nutrition and sport in a natural setting just eight kilometers from Oviedo.
two land of water . Eleven apartments of country luxury welcome in the village of Caleao , in the heart of Redes Natural Park , with a relaxation area of alpine style , Turkish bath and Finnish sauna.
3 Puebloastur. Asturian roots support the foundations of this hotel in which he to nature live in luxury five stars. An accommodation that was a finalist in our Gold List 2018 as one of the Best Getaway Hotels in Spain. It has its own private forest to enjoy the surroundings and a garden that supplies its philosophy slow food.
4 Corias Parador . In Cangas del Narcea and taking possession of a beautiful monastery known as “El Escorial Asturiano”. In the refectory, it is the Chef Maria Patallo who gives life to a letter based on the tradition with specialties such as Asturian veal loin I.G.P. grilled or Fabada with his companion from Cangas.
5 Hotel La Fonte . family hotel in Ships of Llanes, a small town in eastern Asturias, halfway between Llanes and Ribadesella. thought for it s nature lovers and the beautiful beaches of the area
Miguel in the hórreo of his friend Bilbo
WHERE TO EAT
6 Martial House. perfect example of how maintain the essence of the traditional cookbook without sticking to it entirely, thanks to a contemporary kitchen and the chef Nacho Manzano , one of the largest and most recognized cooks of our country.
7 Royal Spa of Salinas . Its history makes it one of the houses with the most renown of Asturian cuisine. isaac loya he is responsible for a letter in which classics such as the Félix Loya champagne sea bass and some insurmountable views Sea Cantabrian, star and unconditional supplier of the restaurant.
8 ** La Salgar .** Esther Manzano and Gijón are the perfect team to offer a contemporary kitchen which is inspired by taste memory of the dishes of the famous family of chefs. Modern and urban cut, in the Museum of the People of Asturias .
9 Castro El Gaiteru. maximum temple of the embers Asturian meats in which meats selected by the house are offered Txogitxu, as well as sea bream, sea bass, red mullet or soles of the local rules.
10 Retirement . The unique personality of the cook's gastronomic discourse Ricardo Gonzalez Sotres is the first claim to attend a master class balance between avant-garde and tradition. your dishes of sea and mountains they embroider it, like their stew pig's ear with carabiner in two services or the trotters stew , octopus from pedreru and kalamata.
eleven Regueiro . the flavors of the world merge without fear and with technique in a kitchen in which there is no difference between tradition and innovation, with a squid chili crab or a Peking mole duck . Located in western Asturias, more specifically in tox , beside Puerto Vega and Navia . ignore their famous Ham croquette it is considered a sin.
Delicacies from El Molin de Mingo
12 Fermin House . seasonal cuisine and imagination –and one of the first restaurants responsible for the revitalization of Asturian cuisine– in the heart of Oviedo , in what was once one of the eating houses and snack bars most popular in the city, back 1924.
13 Gerard House . Vanguard? Yes. Tradition? Also. Casa Gerardo is one of the institutions of Asturian cuisine under the baton of the brothers Pedro and Marcos Morán. Their Fabada is one of the most revered in Spain and its hake with apple vinaigrette It is an essential classic of the house. Not to mention that cream of rice with burned milk which delights in dessert. Pay attention to us: do not stay with the desire to try it.
14 Gueyu Sea . The product is the basis, the foundation and the axis around which this establishment revolves. the sea sends with nothing standing between its naturalness and character.
fifteen the orchard . Ribadesella sets its sights on tradition with a simple, no frills cooking external that make it go out of the canons of the Asturian heritage. Grilled fish, stews, meat... and even a gastrobar with a proposal for tapas with a modern cut under the name of Light House.
16 The Foralin . Stand up and make a wave to the artisan cuisine (and at a very good price) from the chef Felix Martinez. Special mention to its creamy rice with molluscs and pil-pil.
17 Chema House . Although it is true that Gerardo House and Martial House are two of the best examples of how a fabada should be prepared, in Oviedo's Casa Chema they are not far behind with an impressive winner of the Award for the Best in the World in 2017.
18 The Mill of Mingo (Tel. 985 92 22 63) A classic , one of the favorites of the author of these letters and also of all asturianin that is worth Forcefulness and classics of the land in peruyes , near Cangas de Onis.
Cows in the meadows near Miguel's house
WHAT TO DRINK
19 warsaw . Famous and rightly so. Overlooking the bay San Lorenzo and one of the best exponents of the cocktail bar from the entire region.
twenty Soda (917 AS-256, 30 Villaviciosa) It is located In the middle of nowhere –in Villaviciosa– but going off the beaten track is well worth it to taste their vermouths.
2018: A VERY SPECIAL YEAR
Asturias celebrates a unique triple ephemeris, centered on Covadonga . This year, there is the historical coincidence of three simultaneous centenaries: that of the Coronation of the Virgin , that of the creation of Mountain National Park and the thirteenth centenary of the origins of kingdom of asturias . A celebration with more than 80 acts throughout all this 2018.
***** This report was published in **number 120 of Condé Nast Traveler Magazine (September)**. Subscribe to the printed edition (11 printed issues and a digital version for €24.75, by calling 902 53 55 57 or from our website) and enjoy free access to the digital version of Condé Nast Traveler for iPad. The May issue of Condé Nast Traveler is available in its digital version to enjoy on your preferred device.
The Cantabrian is a paradise