Gastronomic route through the "hidden" ports of western Asturias
Okay, better clear it up at the outset: the ports we're talking about they are not so hidden . They are there, a stone's throw from the motorway, a short drive from the main cities of the Principality of Asturias, with their perfectly signposted accesses . Let's not fool ourselves.
If it is true, however, that many of them they do not enjoy the fame from some of its neighboring towns. Cudillero or Luarca, for example, sound familiar to all of us. probably too ship . These are some of the western coastal towns that already occupy a place in the imagination of most Spanish travelers and a good part of those who come from further afield. Next to them there are others towns with less recognizable names , surely less popular because they do not have a beach nearby, because the environment there did not make it easy for urban development or for any other reason that, despite this, is well worth a visit.
Tapia of Casariego
If we look for the asturian west coast on a map we will see that it is, basically, a great straight line which, from east to west, runs along the stretch that goes from the Ría de Avilés to the mouth of the Eo and that appears broken only by a couple of promontories: Cabo Vidio and Cabo Busto. If we get a little closer we will see how that straight line is actually serrated. It is full of small inlets and outlets. In some of them, in the most protected from the attacks of the Bay of Biscay they were installed centuries ago maybe millennia populations that are still there , climbing the slopes and taking advantage of every bend and every cliff to try to protect a port.
There are the large towns that we were talking about and, along with them, dotting the coast, some others that will guide us on this itinerary:
SWEET START IN TAPIA DE CASARIEGO
We cannot say that Tapia is an unknown, far from it. It is, however, the first of these ports born around the inlets on the coast; a quiet seaside resort and soft landscapes. It is worth stopping at Tapia if only to walk along the cliffs towards the Os Cañois viewpoint. On a clear day you can make out the coast of Lugo from here.
From here you can continue along the Dock Avenue , full of bars and taverns, and finish next to the lighthouse of the Island or go up to the chapel of San Sebastián to enjoy the views of the islets, always shaken by the waves. and back stop at the patisserie Palermo and let yourself be tempted by its surprising exhibitor, in which traditional specialties and current recipes they shake hands It's always hard to decide, but we recommend you try their impressive hazelnut and citrus mousse.
Tapia of Casariego
VIAVELEZ AND ITS TAVERN
We continue the eastbound route , no hurry. Here and there spectacular Indiano houses appear and paths that lead to tiny coves whose access is usually not easy, although it is almost always worth the effort. After the beach of Porcía we go down to Viavélez, one of the ports that have best preserved its character . Perhaps because there is literally no room here to build. And below it all, in the tiny port, we find the Viavelez Tavern , a must in the area.
Calamari and bonito In season, fish from the fish market, octopus with onions and other classics share space with proposals such as the courgette and scallop salad, the goat (fish) in tempura or a double Asturian cow cheeseburger, perfect for those who are in a hurry and don't want to get complicated. And all with views of the port.
ORTIGUERA: THE UNEXPECTED SURPRISE AT THE DOORS OF NAVIA
About halfway between La Caridad and Navia , in that strip where the highway moves away a couple of kilometers from the coast and leaves between it and the sea only a flat area with a few villages here and there, suddenly, a sign announces a name: Tortoiseshell.
The port takes advantage of the few meters around the inlet between the cliffs, with the houses climbing up the slope. So much so, that the lighthouse, the chapel and a good part of the houses are higher up, on a small plateau that reaches the sea. It is worth, however, going down here, because this is indeed one of the less busy ports in the area . And on the way back to the road make a stop at Gastronomic Ferpel.
Ferpel is, above all, a brave project . Because you have to be brave to consider a project like this here. And you have to have things very clear to get, as in this case, to set. Asturian, western and updated cuisine : the pilpil chanterelles with yolk and toxos smoke, the red mullet with tripe jelly, the razor clams in stew and odorous marinade or the spider crab velouté dumplings give an idea of where the shots are going here.
The version of the "Thursday broth" of Ferpel Gastronomico.
PUERTO DE VEGA: TWO OPTIONS BETTER THAN ONE
Puerto de Vega is probably one of the towns with a higher density of interesting restaurants regarding the number of inhabitants. Little more than 1,500 registered residents and there are at least two places that deserve the stop.
For those looking for a version closer to the tradition , perhaps the best option is the Meson Center , at the bottom of Plaza Cupido, in the heart of the town, where the daily fish rule. A clue: their creamy lobster and albariño croquettes.
Whoever is looking for a peek into one of the many possible futures of Asturian cuisine can go up a bit, to the entrance of toxin , and book at Regueiro ice cream of tom yum soup ? Lacquered eel in robata with rice flavored with beetroot and citrus and nori seaweed? Roasted tuna belly with marrow? Not everything will be tradition.
BONUS TRACK: CABO BUSTO PASTRY SHOP
It's not in a port, but we're still going to treat ourselves. Because since we are involved in flour, it is worth finishing in style. And because right there, a few kilometers from the last stop , we have one of the best representatives of the young generation of pastry chefs of Asturias.
Jonathan Gonzalez He trained in Gijón and started in the pastry shop at Pomme Sucré. And at just 24 years old, he is already a reference thanks to workshop that he installed in his grandparents' house in the village of Bust , one step away from the cape. A surprise with capital letters that no pastry fan should miss on their route through Asturias.