We are ready to discover the natural, cultural and gastronomic wonders what Gijón has in store for us, but the truth is that our adventure begins in Oviedo. Pilla on the way, it is close (half an hour by car) and houses the La Panoya restaurant in a neighborhood on the outskirts. There we have arranged to meet our local host, so after getting up a little early we arrived just at lunchtime.
As soon as we sit on the terrace we understand the recommendation: shots of gazpacho, scorpionfish cake (Asturian fish pâté), water, wine and homemade welcome us instantly. The waitress advises us not to order the same dish between us the numerous starters and mains of their menu of the day , and she is absolutely right: two or three people could eat each of them, so she has to share and unbuckle.
After the avocado and chicken tartare, the rice with mushrooms, ham and garlic sprouts, the aubergine sticks with honey, the Mexican burritos and Asturian bean stew and seafood soup (the latter as a gift), There is hardly any room on the table or in our stomachs. The seconds confirm the excess: various caps, Grandma's chicken and ham, topped with a potpourri of home Desserts.
AFTERNOON ON THE BEACH
Digestion so heavy leads us to spend the afternoon on the beach, either for swimming or napping. So after leaving our belongings in our apartment in Gijón, located in the worker neighborhood of La Calzada, We get back in the car.
There is high tide, which means that the local beaches will be taken by the water. For this reason we turn to the La Espasa beach (35 minutes), next to the town of La Isla. A sight to behold: while floating in the sea, we have the immensity of the Bay of Biscay in front of us and the green mountains eaten by the clouds from behind. Its waves also attract numerous surfers, but if we don't have a board we can always lower the food by crashing waves.
Back in Gijón we opted for a light dinner (cheese board and portion of vegetables in vinaigrette) washed down with cider To do this, we go to one of the Tierra Astur stores, a franchise specialized in Asturian food, located in this city next to Poniente beach. If we don't know how to pour (or we don't feel like wasting half a bottle), we can always ask for a pourer cap or, in some cider houses, ask the waiter to do it for us.
We end the day with a night walk along the boardwalk. Then it takes us to the peninsula of Cimadevilla (one of the most charming neighborhoods) to continue by San Lorenzo beach (with the lights of its promenade reflected on the sea) and return through the center of the city.
Cimadevilla neighborhood (Gijón): tradition and avant-garde
IN THE DAYLIGHT
The next morning we repeat the walk, but we will see everything with different eyes. Poniente beach is filled with beach tennis players, the promenade of cyclists and runners, and the port of sailors preparing their boats. In Cimadevilla we walk through the park that takes us to the In Praise of the Horizon, monument facing the sea panorama whose acoustics a piper takes advantage of so that his melodies are heard from all over the Santa Catalina hill. Arriving at San Lorenzo, the arena is already packed with the earliest swimmers.
In the Plaza Mayor already the artisan stalls of their market have opened. We had coffee and tomato and oil toast for breakfast on the terrace of La Botica Indiana cafe-tavern. Then we visited the Paradiso bookstore, where, in addition to all kinds of books ( from novelties to poems by Asturian poets ), we will find a good number of vinyl and CDs (rock, punk, blues, jazz…) new and second hand. Just one minute away is the Amarcord bookstore, specializing in movies and comics. The range of craft beers at Casa Lúpulo tempts us enough to have an aperitif on your terrace, arranged in the street of Merced.
PERLORA AND GÜELGUES BEACH
We return to the car to approach the tranquility of the coastal town of Perlora (18 minutes). there awaits us the best meal of the trip, arranged in the hall of the hotel and mansion El Carmen. After some starters of ratatouille with quail eggs and homemade empanada, the forcefulness of the ham croquettes, the excellent presentation of its Asturian cheese board and the tenderness of its cachopo delight our palate, which goes with the good taste in the mouth of its dulce de leche . The afternoon ends on the small beach of Güelgues, a nearby cove of sand and rock.
Back in Gijón we approach to discover the nightlife of its center. We had dinner Potatoes with Cabrales cheese, mussels in vinaigrette and baby squid on the terrace of La Casona de Jovellanos, located in the square of the same name in Cimadevilla, frequented by young people who do not stop pouring cider and bachelor parties.
Walk along the beach of Perlora, in Asturias.
For the drink afterwards, we chose to heed the many recommendations that have advised us to do it at the Savoy Club. A journey through time that will take us back to the best rock & roll of the fifties (Chuck Berry, Elvis, Little Richard...), either on its pleasant terrace or in the living museum that its interior supposes, with live music. Cocktails, American food and electric guitars for say goodbye to the Asturian city before heading back the next morning.
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