Asturias: plans to play Indians, Indians and sailors
VIRGIL, TIDES OF WRINKLES
Virgilio has sailed many seas and that leaves a mark. His face is marked by the tides and the waves; his legs we imagine that they will also remember the slopes of Cimadevilla , the serpentine fishing district of Cudillero . The octogenarian, who spreads smiles right and left, is one of the sailors who rested here between mooring and mooring. With any luck, he shows you his private collection of knick-knacks and he explains to you where his gear and shells come from , reserving a while, of course, to comment on football news. He wins Gijón or loses Oviedo, it is highly recommended to walk through this amphitheater that is a window to the Bay of Biscay . In its colorful houses you can still see that the curadillo, a traditional technique for preserving fish, is still in force. And if you don't see it in situ, you can try it at the tables of some restaurants that are recovering this tradition that does not use salting , just the sea breeze.
On the road: Cudillero, Asturias
CACHOPO
The cachopo is another of the typical recipes that are rejuvenating . Basically it is a San Jacobo but to the beast: two beef fillets with ham and cheese , all breaded and to be able to be crunchy. We rediscovered it at El Remo restaurant (also in Cudillero) where, despite the forcefulness of the main dish, we leave room for a homemade rice pudding that still resonates on our palate . So rich and striking are the cachopos that there is even a route that runs through Asturias in search of the tastiest specimen. There are those that stand out for their size, without restraint and as if a war were about to start; others, for changing the ham for cecina or for daring to add mushrooms and peppers. In any case, each one tastes different, probably because the type of cheese used (and there are many cheeses around here) defines this delicacy that is not suitable for the unappetizing.
THE PARTY OF LES PIRAGUES
The International descent of the Sella , also known as the Piragües Festival It is a massive event that takes place the first saturday of august . Along the way, people of all kinds meet: athletes, folklore, the curious and, increasingly, seekers of summer revelry. A) Yes, there are those who come to Asturias on these dates to encourage the paddlers and you get on and off the call Sellero train to cheer on the brave . Others, on the other hand, only remember having danced to the rhythm set by Marco Carola together with a Marilyn Monroe with a three-day beard. As a whole, it is an effervescent event that revolutionizes the two main towns, Arriondas and Ribadesella , which offer a very different face during the rest of the year.
Arriondas
RIBADESELLA BEFORE AND AFTER THE HANGOVER
Ribadesella , which is now a magnet for tourists, too retains its seafaring past . In addition to the historic route through the port (with friendly murals of mingote ), you can see (with a free guided tour) the fish market that is still in operation. Now, of course, everything has been computerized but you can still see the rula, a curious auction system used by buyers (fresquerus) to avoid disputes and misunderstandings. It's also fun to meet the vocabulary of the stoic fishermen (a xarabal, for example, is a school of fish that jumps on the surface) and figures such as the chos, children who once began to work very young (life in the sea is hard, let's not forget that).
Ribadesella beach, in front of the Indian mansions
Less sacrificed is to enjoy the rest of Ribadesella. Very typical, although not for that reason inadvisable, is to go to **the cave of Tito Bustillo** to take a bath in cave art (the Gallery of the Horses is not forgotten) or to get to the cave village through its only access, The Cave , a striking cavern. Apart from these classics, if you are walkers, we recommend the coastal road that it must be divided into several stages so as not to faint from so much kicking and so much panning.
Painting by Tito Bustillo
SILENCE, IT ROLLS
Llanes de cine is an itinerary that goes through some of the settings that appear in films that were shot there (among others, Grandpa, de Garcia). The route serves to know beaches, trails, bowling alleys, cliffs and cemeteries with celluloid and television series as an excuse . We ask permission to photograph the interior of the Partarriu Palace , one of the film locations The orphanage (led by Bayonne) and a good example of an Indian house. In those we were when suddenly (too suddenly) we heard some accelerated footsteps that sounded like a kid with a mask... That we don't believe in these things doesn't mean that we don't have to tie the sphincter when these things happen. We have it well deserved for playing moviegoers.
Llanes, a movie town
BUCKETS, WHALES AND COSTUMES
But Llanes is much more. It is only enough to take a walk around its historic center to realize that it really had to be an important fishing port. The architectural heritage is fine, but what really leaves its mark are rides like San Pedro : a watchtower on the cliffs from where the whalers spotted their prey to go out whistling to hunt them (competition with the neighbors was tough) . And of course, Llanes is also the image of the port with the Memory Cubes, work of the Basque artist Ibarrola who managed to carve out a niche for himself in the traveling collective imagination. In addition, the council with more than 30 beaches, It is a good example of the irresistible variety of the Asturian coast. In the zone, Gulpiyuri It is one of the most famous for its uniqueness (closed by a cliff and with a cave that communicates with the sea) but we must not forget others such as Toró or the much visited del Sablon.
Llanes is also a town with an intense festive calendar. For example, if you travel with children in mid-July you will find the party of Saint Mary Magdalene, traditional cut but great to entertain the little creatures with storytellers, rockets, costumes and artisans.
Gulpiyuri beach, salt water in the interior of Asturias
REX LOVES REX
To continue with the proposals for children, we suggest you go to the Jurassic Museum (between Colunga and Lastres). Both the exterior (a building in the shape of a dinosaur footprint) and the interior (with a successful staging and lighting) invite us to remember the era of the great reptiles. At the end of the visit, the little ones can play in the nearby meadow while the older ones, perhaps, get sly commenting on the room where two gigantic Tyrannosaurus Rex culminate a romantic dinner. Then, by the way, it would be time to look for a good nest (for the dinosaurs, of course) which is where they kept their eggs after a crazy night.
LIGHTHOUSES, BAGPIPES AND ROSTERS
Until now we had focused on the East and the central area, but what about the rest of the Asturian coast? On the way to Castropol , which will be our end of the trip, we can rest in Cadavedo , a town that, located between the capes of Vidio and Bustos, preserves a good number of Indian mansions (you can stay in some of them, such as the Hotel Rural Casa Roja).
Another option is to opt for Luarca or Navia but it does not give us the life for so many fishing villages. We better head up Tapia of Casariego which is famous for enjoying good weather and where there is no lack of events throughout the year, such as the Interceltic Festival of the West that is celebrated in August. Whether to the rhythm of folk or with another soundtrack, what is clear is that it is worth knowing the beaches of Tapia where one can toast, play shovels or simply walk between dunes and marshes looking at the only Asturian lighthouse built on an island.
Cadavedo
From here Castropol is very close. This town is coast, sea, mountain and, above all, it is the Eo estuary (with apologies to its Galician neighbor, Ribadeo). Water sports can be practiced in its waters, as the rowers of the Club de Mar have well learned who, by dint of sweating on boats, trainerillas and traineras, have crammed their showcases with trophies. But don't worry, you don't need to have arms like oak trees to enjoy all this because just by sitting down see the racking of the estuary, the chorizo in cider and the beer taste better, like Cantabrian, more or less.
*** You may also be interested in...**
- Llanes, the script of a film without ending
- Beaches of Asturias: 19 ways to enhance your senses
- Asturias for _ foodies _
- Top 10 of the most beautiful villages in Asturias
- The 50 best beaches in Spain
- Nudist beaches in Spain
Castropol, end of the route