The Plaza de Oriente dressed in autumn
Let's play something: let's enjoy Madrid without nostalgia and with hope for the future . How daring. The first is that of Madrid as always and consists of making what we did in the fall of last year and the one five years ago . Not everything has changed. The second is that of Madrid today. In it we will live the city from new ideas and projects that are the nutrients of the Madrid of the near future. They are all plans as safe and as stimulating . Of course there is Madrid, there is tomorrow and we want to be part of it.
A MADRID OF YESTERDAY, THE BEFORE YESTERDAY AND FOREVER
Much of what we did on weekends and long weekends last year can be repeated and must be done without attachment to the past . Madrid is the result of many years of stories and the energy of many people ; that is not so easy to shut up. These are not extravagant plans, who wants them in this age in which we have learned to embrace the close and the everyday . And how lucky we are that that means walk through the halls of the Prado or the Thyssen ; how many more cities can have two museums separated by a zebra walk.
In the Prado you can see his exhibition 'guests' , a critical look at misogyny in the museum's collection. And the Thyssen has just opened 'German Expressionism in the collection of Baron Thyssen' ; Kirchner, Nolde and Kandinsky await us.
Image of the rooms of the exhibition 'Guests'.
Madrid is not Madrid without Galdós and everything that surrounds the writer helps us to know her better. Therefore, the exhibition of photographs 'Galdós in the labyrinth of Spain' , which is celebrated in the Royal Academy of Fine Arts s is a must for those of us who love Madrid; also for those of us who reread Tristana underlining pages.
who we grew up with The way of Delibes on the bedside table we can go to gloat in the rooms of the National Library , where the exhibition dedicated to the writer from Valladolid is held. Well staged, exhaustive and with a good dose of emotion, this exhibition ( which closes on November 15 hurry) is also an excuse to step on one's own National Library . Visiting these places is something we could do last year and the wonder is that, no matter what happens, they are renewed every season.
Something we could also plan months ago it was an outdoor route. Outdoors is the new bar . They can be organized, like those that organize in Routes with History . The one dedicated to Antonio Palacios, responsible, in part, for the silhouette of the city, is a good idea.
Another option is to program a free route as one that never fails, that of Almodovar . There is nothing like seeing one of his films from Madrid and touring the locations. The last, the human voice , is shot in studios except for one scene, which was filmed in the Hardware Delights . Mythomaniacs can go take a look at the ax section.
The Human Voice (or Tilda Swinton at Hardware Delights)
Parks are always a good idea, and if we venture to those that are not in the center, the better. El Capricho is a gem and we owe it to a woman, the Duchess of Osuna, María Josefa de la Soledad Alonso Pimentel. , which, at the end of the 18th century, wanted a garden in which the culture of the time would meet. Today, at times reminds us of Hampstead and at times of Paris , but it is in Madrid and is visited only on weekends; besides, and she keeps a surprise: a civil war bunker can also be visited . Another interesting park is the Quinta de los Olivos , located in the neighborhood of San Blas and with free access. Walking among trees should have its own article in the Constitution: it should be, like education, compulsory.
It should also be going to the theater from time to time. The Pavón Kamikaze Theater existed last year and is still alive and resisting. This November you can see Dreams and Visions of Rodrigo Rato Y kill tired . And sooner or later a great plan is still going to eat at the Indian restaurants in Lavapiés , as much a part of the city as purple candies. A plate of chicken vindaloo and a play was a good pre-pandemic plan and still is. Let's fight for all that.
Nor has the virus taken away two pleasures from us very madrileños, madrileñamente madrileños : the stew and the chocolate with churros. To enjoy the first we can go to Vallecas, to the White Cross , where they have been serving it for 15 years and succeeding with it. For the second there are many places, in each neighborhood, one. We chose a classic San Gines and a modern one, that of Kakaw Bar by Popota , which allows us to build a bridge between the Madrid of yesterday, last year, five years ago to the Madrid of the present. Let's dip a churro in the chocolate and travel back in time to today.
Chucros de Kakaw Bar by Popota
THE MADRID OF TODAY AND THE LAST TOMORROW
Madrid, November 2020 . There are, against all odds, new projects and ideas that row in favor of the city. A year ago they did not exist and that is good and beautiful. This is a review of some recent initiatives that can brighten up a weekend, a bridge, an afternoon. They all have in common that they look forward.
let's go back to chocolate . Surely we have a stained mouth. There is a new chocolate with churros that is eaten in Malasaña. Served in, a spin off of Popota, Kakaw Bar . This is an ice cream parlor with natural and original flavors such as gofio and stick cut. If you go it is easy for you to see there Irene Ravchuk , which is behind this idea. She will suggest the chocolate , which is personalized with classic or infused cream and, beware, with essences such as tonka bean, star anise, rum and orange; They also have an alcoholic version of the 1862 Dry Bar . And the churros? They are chucros, a cross between churros and croissant and they are prepared in the oven. Every curious person with a sweet tooth should try this dessert? afternoon snack? single dish? This chocolate with churros serves as an introduction to share close, personal and safe plans. These months we have finished convincing ourselves that small projects add up and make a city.
We have started eating and will continue to do so. Small pleasures are great. During these months they have opened restaurants like Döppelganger, in the Antón Martín Market full of charisma Mortar House , vindicating traditional food, always modern and Josefita, where they eat pickled mussels that are too rich. We make a note of reserving one of these days.
Casa Mortero croquettes
Nearby, in Justice is Corn, Water and Lime , a Mexican restaurant, run by Mexicans and where Mexicans land. Let's keep touring the area and, let's keep salivating. In Pelayo Mune has just opened , a corner place where you can eat Lebanese dishes that are always healthy, tasty and colorful. Let's walk towards Chamberí . There is Proper Sound, from the creators of Toma Café. This is a spacious place (always appreciated in these times), and well lit designed for listen to music, speak softly and drink coffee or wine.
Mune, on Pelayo street in Madrid
Not far away is one of the most photographed places in recent months and that dared to open in spring, training . The project of Clara Ten (someone talk better about cheese?) is a perfect cheese for those looking for cheeses with something to tell. In northern Chamberí is the new Aroma Bread, a café-bakery-confectionery that joins the Oculto project. This space brings together a hairdresser, Hidden Hair , a place of manipedi, my little monkey , and this cafe where you can have breakfast before or after a haircut or nail touch-up.
Let's stop eating and go shopping . These months we have reconnected with our house and we do not plan to neglect it. In coconut , located in the Plaza de la Paja since the end of 2018, we can choose a ceramic piece, a blanket or a towel to take care of it just as it takes care of us. This is the project of Pepa Trains , a former executive looking, like a craft detective, for what she wants to sell in her exquisite store. That is also the philosophy of Misia, in Conde Duque , which opened at the end of 2019. Every brand here, every belt and every dress, has been selected by its creator, Candida Ledo . A Batsheva dress or Carel shoes can liven up the most matte mood. Both projects share a spirit, make the city richer.
The art of the everyday
We continue the route looking for personal initiatives. Eturel it also opened, like these two stores, last year. In this place, which is also a workshop, there are artisan and organic fabrics based on the Spanish textile tradition, such as arpillera or canvas . A newly opened place is… Wow, we can't say the name because it doesn't have one, but we'll explain: is a pop up devised by Gärna Art Gallery and Rue Vintage 74 where art, design and antiques are sold. will be active in Jorge Juan alley until the last day of the year . And they continue to open spaces.
This week opened Combed Can , the Madrid incursion of an existing bookstore in Barcelona. It is a place dedicated to independent publishers of Latin American Literature . Sofía, the bookseller, has her Argentine accent. “ is what we read, recommend and motorize ”, Let us go and let ourselves be guided. Furthermore, while we discover authors or reread Clarice Lispector we can drink coffee.
Now we travel less, but that does not mean that we have to forget about hotels . A contact from time to time will make us connect with somewhat dormant sensations. Let's take advantage of the fact that there are excellent hotels and new initiatives in Madrid. We can have breakfast or snack in the Only You Atocha Breakery . The hotel, in collaboration with Oriol Balaguer, has designed this small pastry shop located in the lobby, a place that is always lively; one always feels worldly in a hotel lobby.
The great novelty of the season is the newborn Four Seasons . There, although with a separate entrance to the hotel, is Dani's Brasserie . The tone is high but informal, the Impeccable Dani García kitchen (you have to ask for the Nitro Tomato) and the mandatory views. And, since we are in the new block of Madrid, let's stop by the new and splendid Hermès store, even if it is to feed the spirit. Let's keep nurturing it: let's go to the movies. The Ambassadors cinemas they opened this summer wanting to be a good neighborhood cinema, nothing more and nothing less. And with that energy they continue.
These are plans that could be made last year and could be made this year. They are classic plans and modern plans, because this city is both. You don't finish Madrid.
Dani's Brasserie