Nuova Roma: the modern whole city
Few places on earth can do business so magnificently with traveling fantasies like Rome . Greatness and courage come together in their narrow and irregular streets and in its aristocratic piazzas . Its pearl-colored light allows sacred beauty to emanate from even the most profane tourist scene. Its inhabitants can go from the banal act of taking out the trash to giving you a masterclass in a carefree attitude (the perfect word for that is sprezzatura, an inimitable Italian quality that the Romans are experts at).
The most inspiring thing is his defense of the timeless while an electric present seems to sprout with more dynamism than in other cities. Downtown neighborhoods (the ones we thought we knew) have renovated with design hotels and boutiques . And like London and New York, where the suburbs are the new centers of gravity, the areas beyond have been transformed by a posse of chefs and shopkeepers. This is the guide to the sweetest corners of the city, where tradition and innovation go hand in hand.
Rome, quiet, pretty and officially posh
HISTORICAL CENTER
Many people recognize via Giulia in images, as it is one of the most photogenic streets in Rome; probably not like many known firsthand. Located on one of the curves drawn by the Tiber , it is far from the busiest streets of the Historical Center . Many are familiar with its illustrious pedigree: the long stone street of San Pedro It was designed in 1508 by Donato Bramante, during the Order of Pope Julius II. It was one of the first major urban redevelopment projects. Adorned with noble palaces from the 16th and 17th centuries and divided by an ivy arch designed by Miguel Angel, through the old neighborhoods of Put on and Regulate . It is quiet, pretty and officially dick.
Right here, the architect Antonio Girardi has opened D·O·M, a 24-room hotel in a former Claretian monastery. Its facade reflects the usual Roman beauty of washed pastels, whose palette includes whites, grays and browns, adorned with rich linen and velvet, brass and leather furnishings. Beneath its vaulted ceilings, the walls are lined with stone tiles. 400 years of the nearby church of Santa Lucia del Gonfalone , which accompany proclamations in Latin, beginning with D·O·M, an acronym for Deo Optimo Maximo (To God, Optimal, Maximum).
24 rooms in an old Claretian monastery
The relative calm that is breathed is due to an unbeatable location. A jump from the south end of the street and next to the Get Sisto takes you to the square Trilussa , the gateway to Trastevere's lively trendy bars and clubs. Some of the best places to shop are in via dei Pellegrini, via di Monserrato and via dei Banchi Vecchi, where Laura Urbinati sells her monochrome bikinis, which can be seen on beaches like Gallipoli or Capalbio. In five minutes, you arrive at the cool chaos of Campo dei Fiori and, five minutes further on, to via dei Giubbonari, where you will find the beloved Salumeria and Vinoteca Roscioli.
All extol the genius of the brothers Alessandro and Pierluigi Roscioli , from the bread with prosciutto to the most impeccable cacio e pepe recipe in the city (perhaps the point is not that it is friendly and has a refined service, in Rome nobody expects that) . The takeaway baccalà sandwich from Dar Filettaro (a block from Roscioli, located on a small piazzeta) is greasy, more chaotic, but still a adventure that transports you.
The Ponte Sisto takes you to lively modern bars and clubs
Among D O M and Piazza Navona , is Via del old government . Rome's response to New York's Elizabeth Street in Nolita: home to independent boutiques and a couple of superlative vintage empires , where anyone with €100 and a penchant for digging can find treasures like a women's biker jacket, possibly from 1974. The demand on the street has multiplied thanks to the designer Delfina Delettrez , daughter of Silvia Venturini Fendi, who opened her first boutique in 2011. Delettrez's totemic motifs (devil eyes, skulls, spiders and fine bones reminiscent of lockets) are so beautiful as provocative . Equally imaginative are the jewelery designs by Paolo Giacomelli and Roberta Paolucci at Iosselliani R-01-IOS, with their brass and silver pieces and tribal feather motifs.
Just around the corner from Iosselliani is the D O M competition, JK Place Roma is the third JK hotel of the Florentine Ori Kafri . Its 30 rooms are a stylish update of a old school , located halfway between Richard Meier's Ara Pacis museum and the Piazza San Lorenzo in Lucina (Ciampini, at 29 Piazza, is like your real estate agency in Rome: a morning stop for a perfect espresso; a lively aperitif scene; the best pistachio ice cream in town; smooching all day). The hotel's unique style alternates muted neutrals with color (hallways boast turquoise and lime silks and mid-century marble reproductions). The hotel managed to convince the Roman scene more or less when it opened; it's a perfect place to feel in the center of everything.
The third JK hotel of the Florentine Ori Kafri
MONTI
Sandwiched between the crumbling monoliths of the Imperial Forum and the elegant government palaces of the quirinal hill , the lemon and apricot façades lined up in the streets of the 18th century Monty they are a delight, or at least tremendously different from other areas. Over the last few years, a new generation of adoptive residents of Monti have given it an indie edge, making the neighborhood a destination in itself. It is evident in its referent ' zero kilometer ' of urban 47 , an industrial-chic space that serves its own meat and 'produces' (the adjacent cultural space, Cinema Urbana 47, has been open since 2012) .
At Aromaticus, owners Luca De Marco and Francesca Lombardi bring culinary authenticity to their business (they worked in Rome as chef at Open Baladin and sommelier at Open Colonna, respectively), half bistro half farm empire . In addition to cultivate aromatic herbs, design shovels and produce organic products, they offer a good menu based on salads, cheeses and charcuterie to accompany Luca's sublime steak tartare . In Gaudeo, with black and white tiles, you will find the paradigm of paninoteca . There is a wide variety of ingredients, but choose two or three for your bread, so that the quality of each shines through. the of turkey and goat ricotta Sardinian is a must.
eating in a garden
Merchants and designers find in the streets of Monti the gracious disposition to the extravagant and the 'twice loved' (after Via del Governo Vecchio, Monti has the best vintage shops in town ) . The store b sells monochrome designs from European firms, pashminas by Faliero Sarti and pants by Céline . At the DOP Concept Store, Arabella Valdieri supplies just a few pieces from specialist brands to complement her own line of soft designs (whether you go with a goatskin bag or a linen dress, it'll be something unique). If it's Saturday or Sunday, you'll go to Mercato Monti . What was once a correct market has become an exhibition of suppliers of handmade and vintage products . Any day the proposal can include 1950s jewelry, handmade leather sandals and 70s Gucci bags.
TESTACCIO AND OSTIENSE
Baroque vaults, pastel frescoes and wisteria-lined piazzettas : Nothing quintessentially Roman will be found in Testaccio and Ostiense, which border the silver and brown stretch of the Tiber, under the Trastevere . The dirty and industrial are part of its DNA: the handful of Testaccio's early 20th century middle class houses It stands on an old Roman rubbish dump, made up of thousands of terracotta urns abandoned millennia ago by ships from the provinces of the empire. the profile of Ostiense it is characterized by steel bridges and graffitied warehouses , as well as by the Pyramid of Gaius Cestius , its most important museum, and the Centrale Montemartini , a decommissioned power plant.
Eat, drink but above all: snack
While these neighborhoods lack aesthetic appeal, they boast a genuinely urban spirit (and the place in Rome for foodies to go) . Pilgrim to the testaccio market , which still maintains its industrial style , to account for a good prosciutto, fresh endives, and everything typical of a space of this caliber. With an added visit: Volpetti, a 150-year-old delicatessen for those seeking fresh pasta, anchovies in Sicilian olive oil, or one of their seven artichoke recipes.
The new gastronomic nexus here is called Porto Fluviale , the mecca for eat, drink and snack which occupies a 3,000 m² warehouse that was previously part of Magazzini Generali, the wholesale market largest in rome . Today it is a cavernous set of spaces with exposed brick walls, industrial lamps and wooden shelves with a generous range of Italian products. Count with one lively bar from early morning until the wee hours (the place for a perfect espresso and a Campari spritz) next to a Pizza shop with two huge wood ovens, one for wafer-thin Roman pizzas and the other for the fluffy Neapolitan version. In addition to a tapas bar, pastry shop and a lounge with leather chairs and Chester sofas.
Precisely the northeast of Porto Fluviale, the former Ostiense airport, has been the headquarters of Eataly since June 2012, the four-story building dedicated to the best of italian gastronomy and viticulture (it has another headquarters in New York) . National chefs often make star appearances in their show kitchens and prestigious local specialists (Teo Musso in beers, Roberto Battaglia in mozzarella di bufala, Alessandro Frassica in panini and Slow Food master Sergio Capaldo to talk about meat) have shown their skills in gastronomic macrospace.
Rosti, serves Maremmana beef burgers
PIGNETUS
People will tell you that Pigneto is the brooklyn from rome . Advertising or not, there is something undeniably modern along Via del Pigneto, a pedestrian street north of the train tracks in Termini . A communist enclave in the early 20th century , later a somewhat rough area, Pigneto has recovered (although you'll feel like you're about to get into a fight when dining alfresco at Primo) . The restaurant is a must in Pigneto, where its listless service is offset by some outstanding dishes , including his broad bean puree with burrata.
The Tricker's shoe-loving owners also run neighboring Rosti , which serves Maremmana beef burgers, pepperoni sandwiches, pizze bianche and, on Sunday afternoons, al forno pasta meals . It is a magnet for creative neighbors and young parents, whose children jump in its 2,200 m² garden. And you should stop at Necci, an institution since 1924; Pasolini filmed here in the early sixties, and today owner Benjamin Hirst, a ward of Fergus Henderson's kitchen, has given it a modern halo and a refined rustic menu. Between 8.00 a.m. and 1:00 a.m., seven days a week, is a good time to go, since Necci changes, throughout the day, from a cafeteria to a bar to taste the aperitif to an elegant osteria that delights us with typical dishes; from artichokes to eel. The clientele's mustaches and sockless shoes may be reminiscent of Brooklyn (but the flavors are unmistakably Roman).
* This article is published in the December 79th issue of Condé Nast Traveler magazine. This issue is available digitally for iPad on the iTunes AppStore, and digitally for PC, Mac, Smartphone and iPad at Zinio's virtual kiosk (on Smartphone devices: Android, PC/Mac, Win8, WebOS, Rim, iPad) . _In addition, you can find us on Google Play Newsstand.
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