In the footsteps of Robert Capa in a little town in Cordoba: welcome to Espejo

Anonim

Mirror

Death of a Militiaman is considered the mother of current photojournalism

The archaeologist and writer Fernando Penco is one of the people who can contribute the most Robert Capa and his passing through the Cordoba town of Espejo , where the mythical photo was taken.

There are many who attribute this discovery to this Cordovan researcher. And it is that for years it was thought that the photo had been taken on Cerro Muriano , a place near the capital of the province. But in addition, Penco continues to investigate who were the ones that appeared on those reels and his discoveries, perhaps, will be the stuff of a new book.

death of a soldier

The famous snapshot inside the Imperial War Museum's Spanish Civil War exhibition in London

Death of a Militiaman is considered the mother of current photojournalism and one of the most important war photos of the 20th century. The latest investigations place the shot in this town in Cordoba, in the place known as the Loma de las Dehesillas , where for a few years they have been proposed to take advantage of the matter.

We are just over 36 kilometers from the capital of Cordoba, so a getaway to Espejo is more than recommended. for lovers of photography and myths.

Mirror is white, bright and full of history with its little more than three thousand inhabitants. As soon as we set foot here and the more we delve into where the famous photograph was taken, the more unknowns seem to assail us.

to get started Robert Capa was not a single person , as many believe, but it was the firm with which they sold their photos Endre Erno Friedmann and Gerta Pohorylle, photojournalists and sentimental couple.

She was born in Stuttgart, Germany, on August 1, 1910, and he on October 22, 1913, in Budapest, Hungary. Both put the negatives in the same envelope and sealed it with the name of Robert Capa to send them to the Magnum Agency.

Some claim that the photo was taken by him. Others say that it was she who made it. Nobody knows for sure. Nor what kind of camera was used.

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Espejo, the Cordovan town where the Death of a Militiaman photograph was taken

At first it was concluded that it was a Leica camera. But the latest inquiries made by Mr. Eijiro Yoshioka of the Fuji Museum in Japan –and a friend of Endre's brother–, seem to confirm that she was shot by a Corelle SLR since the format is square and not rectangular as in the Leica.

This could suppose that it was Gerta who made it , since it is with the camera that she used to work, but this question adds to the many enigmas that surround the photo. Who could confirm who hit the machine at that time?

Due to the crudeness of the image and what it would represent for years, for a long period it was believed that it was a snapshot taken in full war action , but many scholars, such as academic Fernando Penco Valenzuela , based on both the frame and the rest of the photos on the reel, they concluded that It was “a photomontage”.

Photomontage or not, the reality is that the name of Robert Capa is linked to the history of photojournalism, the Spanish Civil War and the Córdoba town of Espejo, although once there the questions multiply.

Who was the militiaman? Was it really taken at Loma de las Dehesillas? what day was it taken exactly?…

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The landscape surrounding the Mirror

PLACE OF PILGRIMAGE FOR LOVERS OF PHOTOGRAPHY

Mirror is seated almost 420 meters above sea level at its highest point, which since its origins has placed it as a strategic and coveted location for all the cultures that have passed through its history.

When we arrive, the picture it offers is like that of many Andalusian towns: a set of white houses on a hill. We headed to the town hall, where Rubén Bello, Culture Technician , gives us the indications of where it is the famous place of photography.

Since 2014, in the Hill of the Dehesillas , between a sea of ​​olive groves, a sign was placed in which the famous photograph appears. In fact, they were going to build a representative statue in honor of Robert Capa in the town, but he has not yet been able to undertake the project.

You can reach the Loma de las Dehesillas taking a walk of about 25 minutes downhill from the town hall (here everything is hills). And as we walk towards our goal, We are asking the countrymen if they know who Robert Capa was. The reality is that here the Civil War is still in the memory (rather in the nightmares) of some of its inhabitants.

What has been developed in Espejo is a Biennial dedicated to Robert Capa that will have its next edition in 2020, and that also orbits around this representative place of the Spanish Civil War.

More and more photography lovers are flocking there, in that olive grove that, although it is private property, has already become a symbol.

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mirror from above

GOING UP AND DOWN HILLS

Since we are in Mirror, you should not miss his ducal castle . Its construction began at the end of the 13th century, and since then it has been known as Pay Arias Towers , although hardly anything remains of those original towers.

Open to the public, from its sharp walls you can see a panoramic view of the Cordovan countryside essential. imagine this was one of the scenes of the Civil War , not so long ago, today we find it incredible. Calm reigns in these places.

near the castle, the Church of San Bartolomé, from 1483, is another curious visit in the highest part of the town. And now, once the travel-cultural file has been completed, it is time to have a snack and take the pulse of daily life.

If you haven't had breakfast yet or feel like doing it again, a good toast of village bread with virgin olive oil is the best option. But if it's already past breakfast time, then it's time have a wine from Montilla-Moriles accompanied by a good espejeño sausage (the chorizo ​​is the star) in any of the local bars.

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The quiet streets of Espejo

If lunchtime is upon you, Rubén Bello recommends us some “pies y cuajá” whose main ingredient is pig trotters. Or also pig's tongue that prepared in various ways is one of the most exquisite dishes.

To put the sweet note, the mirrored pancakes or “the little bugs” , sugar-coated donuts, will give you energy to go up and down the slopes throughout the afternoon enjoying the sunset over the countryside.

Because here, in any corner, in any bend, there are some views to stop and take the classic selfie (and a donut at the same time), or it comes to you a pot aroma from the neighbors that makes you feel at home.

If the night catches you drinking wine and enjoying the calm of the town, Casa Almara is an old manor house with more than a hundred years, and only 8 rooms, which also has a breakfast of those that are not forgotten.

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