Guacamole is always king.
Much more than tacos and guacamole, although guacamole goes. The appetizer and main accompaniment of Mexican cuisine around the world is not forgotten in Reluctantly. In fact, as he quickly points out Abel Martellotti, his chef, “Guacamole is the king of the menu”. Creamy, just right and with real tortilla chips, not supermarket chips.
But as soon as we pass this dish, the Reluctant menu can be unknown or very new for the vast majority. “It is a space where we want to bring the new trend in the kitchen that is seen today in Mexico City, market cuisine, fresh cuisine, where the important thing is the raw material”, says Martellotti, whose career, which began in his native Buenos Aires, continued in France, Spain (in Zuberoa, as head chef at Goizeko Wellington) and finally led him to a two-year adventure in the Aztec country.
Zucchini flower in tempura with mole sauce.
Everything he learned in those two years, and what he continues to learn because he returns as soon as he can, he has brought to Spain and, specifically, to Reluctant. "We treat fish and shellfish like they do in Baja California, clam ceviches, for example," bill. “We roast the meat as they do in Sonora, at a low temperature. We have the flavors of Puebla, of Oaxaca…”. And, literally, all the chiles that give color and enhance the flavor of their recipes are brought. "We have about 15 or 20 varieties of different chiles, specific mixtures."
In Madrid, they also work with specific artisan suppliers. A person who goes to Mercamadrid for them every day to select and buy the best fish, the best shellfish. That's why the card in Reluctantly can change daily. “We are only subject to what the market sends us”, says the cook.
Madrid-style squid taco.
They look at Mexico, but they have their feet in Madrid. And that influence is also noticeable in some recipes. "Actually, there is a lot of similarity between Mexican and Madrid cuisine," he justifies. "In Mexico I found, for example, that they took what they call tripita tacos, which are fried, like here the ins and outs and gallinejas”. Following the recipes of both countries, he has created the Chulapo Mex, a taco of ins and outs and chicken. As traditional as chilango.
In Baja California, fried fish tacos and fried squid tacos are very popular. “There they call them weathered, but it's like the classic Madrid squid sandwich, only you change the bread for the corn tortilla”, he continues. Mexican cuisine is also a lesser-known "basic cuisine, of stews". "Despite the 14,000 kilometers that separate us, there are many similarities and I want people to see it."
Martellotti wants that distance to almost disappear in Reluctantly and the kitchens of the two countries find a neutral ground for coexistence. “From my trip to Mexico, a world of dishes, flavors, creative processes opened up to me that I never want to lose,” he says. “The best thing that they have told me so far here is that they have eaten Mexican dishes with Mexican flavors without being Mexican.”
The bar and cocktail bar are important.
That is exactly what he was looking for: “Traditional and new Mexican flavors, with Spanish products and trends from around the world, that is what a whole new breed of cooks is doing now in Mexico City, where you find very fun places without losing the essence”.
Not only tacos lives Mexico.
WHY GO
For the guacamole and dishes as unexpected as courgette flower in tempura stuffed with mole. Beans with cheese and lacquered pork shank. And for dessert? A classic tres leches or a flan de elote (corn) with chocolate garnache.
ADDITIONAL FEATURES
The cocktail bar It pairs very well with this travel menu. Classic cocktails, from micheladas to margaritas, and signature cocktails or conceived on the fly to adapt to tastes and the menu of each day. And that makes it a good afterwork plan too.
Lacquered pork cheek.
Address: Almirante Street, 24 See map
Telephone: 91 819 02 28
Schedule: From Tuesday to Saturday from 13 to 1H. Sunday from 13 to 17H. Closed Monday.
Half price: €35