Carmencita: tiles and vermouth
THE CUSTOM
- The first thing we have to be clear about is that, in matters of customs, if the floor is full of napkins, peanut shells, shrimp remains... we should not run away in terror. Such a floor is directly proportional to the fame of the BAR . Good fame, of course.
- As usual it is also to have HAM AND CHACINA hanging from the ceiling or from the walls as a sampler, in the style of the well-known Museo del Jamón or almost any traditional tavern in the center of the city. But we can see the same thing in recently opened establishments, such as the small Bocadillo de Jamón y Champagne, in Malasaña, where the pig's feet hang accompanied by bottles of sparkling wine. Curious combination.
- And keep in mind that here we don't go for beers. Let's go CANES ; just like the little bottles, which we call 'jugs'.
- If we talk about cañas, in Madrid they take, and a lot, what to put FREE TAPA . I am not referring to some olives or French fries, but to complete and well-heaped portions. Petisqueira, Bar Quevedo or the incombustible Sidrería El Tigre are three good examples.
- Although, by the way, we must not detract from the olives , because we even have our own dressing, of course, 'a la madrileña' (black, with bone and sweet paprika from La Vera, spring onion, oil and coarse salt) .
double pleasure
THE DRINKABLE
- Continuing with the drinks, at aperitif time the VERMOUTH in total revival plan with new proposals that version the traditional one, like the one prepared in Verbena Bar or La Carmencita. Although in the Sierra Angel Tavern , of those of a lifetime, have not lost the good habit of serving it on tap and in a flat glass, as has always been done. Just like in La Ardosa, a tavern with an old-fashioned air that is filled with moderns every day. Or Celso and Manolo , the 'old woman' of the group, a recently opened marble bar on Libertad Street where they can vermouth and taste reinvented classics.
- Because now what takes, if you are young, is go out in 'OLD' BARS , such as El Palentino or the Asturian restaurant of the Brothers Campa , both on Calle Pez , or Bar Múñiz , a place in La Latina that still retains the typical drawings of tapas and combined plates painted on the glass doors and windows from before. And El Aperitivo de Corazón in Lavapiés which, although it has recently had new owners, still retains the same spirit as always.
- But for old-fashioned places, nothing like the WINERIES. Those on Palma, Rivas or El Maño streets, or the wine taverns in the Calatrava street, heart of La Latina , they still keep jars of yesteryear, of course with wine to drink on the premises, accompanied by an interesting variety of wine bottles that you can drink by the glass.
- Speaking of WINES , the small but curious selection that they have in the Golden Lion Inn , in the Cava Baja, or in the Albur eating house, on Manuela Malasaña street, they do not usually disappoint those who understand the most.
Squid and anchovies, a classic
THE TAPA
- Along with the wine, the CHEESE . Star cover… and gourmet snack. This is how it is considered in Poncelet, a cheese boutique where they treat the artisan cheese as an authentic delicatessen. And as if that were not enough, they have a restaurant where everything is made with cheese. They have more than 150 varieties from all over the world: it is the Cheese Bar.
- But this madness unleashed by cheese has only just begun: the last to open was the Conde Duque cheese factory, a sanctuary not to be missed if you are a fan of nationally produced artisan cheeses.
- In the world of tapas, TOASTS are the queens , and just in case there is someone clueless, say that they are slices of bread with something -or a lot- on top, hot or cold, plain or gourmet t. The neighborhood of La Latina continues to be a benchmark with places like Lamiak or Juana La Loca, known for its caramelized potato omelette.
THE TORTILLA
- In terms of potato omelette, we have much, much to say, although it is impossible for us to opt for just one; the variety is very large and the tastes of the staff too. Of course, the list of the best would donate with those that serve in Sylkar, with a liquid dot inside ; the Ardosa , with a unique texture that is also slightly curdled in its heart; or Las Tortillas de Gabino, curious because, in addition to potatoes, Galician-style octopus, Casar cake, Gernika peppers, fishbones with prawns, tripe, etc. are added. Without any shame.
A great bruch at La Taberna de la Carmencita
THE TENDENCY
- Suddenly, and almost without realizing it, we have become **addicted to BURGERS. ** And if not, beware of the menu of almost any restaurant: it is rare that you do not have one to choose from, it does not matter if it is a maxi or mini version. those of the HD coffee shop , in Argüelles they take us directly to Madison Avenue and plunge us into an episode of Mad Men with its 60s aesthetic. Alfredos Barbacoa's burgers are also of Yankee origin, for many the best in Madrid, or those of Mad Café, in the Cava Alta. The last to arrive, those of the Beast, with four mini colored versions: orange red, green, black and brown, the most normal of all. The list is endless, but these are simply essential.
- And, of course, the HOT DOGS It has also created a trend in the capital. Perrito Lapdog is one of the most mentioned among dog addicts and, also, one of the most forceful, although there are others such as Stockholm , a place where Swedish style and accompanied by good music and drinks, or It Dogs, where the dog is treated with great glamor and a glass of cava. High level hot dog without a doubt.
The Mad Men Burger
THE MYTHICAL
- And now pay attention because we are going to dismantle a myth: no, PAELLA is not a dish from here , despite the fact that many places even serve it as something traditional at aperitif time,
- What is from here is **COCIDO (from Madrid)**, especially in winter, because the calories we gain from drinking it are not at all compatible with excess heat in summer. But what would life be without the brave! Casa Carola does it like nobody else, with its 'three flips' (first the cooked soup; then the chickpeas, with their potatoes and vegetables; and finally the stew meat) . At La Bola, open since 1870 and where more than a hundred stews can be served a day; and Malacatin, whose cooked soup was the winner of the 2011 'Ruta del cocido' ; or in the indisputable Lhardy, from where one cannot leave without having a cup of consommé… and so we could spend a good time.
- And for real castizo, the SQUID SANDWICH . Tradition says that you have to drink it in the Plaza Mayor, especially at Christmas, in places like Bar Postas, Casa Rúa, Cervecería Sol Mayor, or go down to El Brillante de Atocha. But there are new versions that are breaking with the established, like the black bread that they serve in the tape (made with the ink of the squid itself) and ali oli sauce, or the gourmet versions that the genius of the kitchen has prepared David Muñoz in Streetxo.
A classic in Madrid.
- The SPICY POTATOES They are a classic and are among the most spicy and rogue portions. But the freakism and secrecy that surrounds its preparation is such that it is difficult to find two that prepare them the same. Some have even patented their sauce, like the local Las Bravas **(note for the curious: the patent number is 357,942) **.
- and the CALLOS, with the surname 'a la madrileña', that visceral delicacy from the cow that is prepared with chorizo, black pudding, paprika, tomato sauce, spices and garlic. With ingredients like this, it goes without saying that this is also a typical winter dish , and in taverns like La Botillería de Maxi, in Lhardy or in the Taberna San Mamés they know how to make them.
- Also from the CASQUERÍA they come from ins and outs and chickens , a dish that can only be eaten in Madrid, at least the authentic one. For those interested and unscrupulous, say that these are pieces of meat extracted from the depths of the lamb - as deep as the intestines are - and fried in their own tallow. They can be eaten on their own or as a sandwich and are super typical at festival time. During the rest of the year they can be found in mythical places, such as the Freiduría de Gallinejas -open for more than 60 years, it even has its own book of origin and fundamentals of the gallinejas-, Los Madroños or El Mirador de San Isidro. We insist: only for the brave.
- Continuing with the dishes that are very local, you can not miss the SNAILS. No matter how repulsive they cause, you shouldn't die without having tried what they do at the Los Caracoles tavern or at House Amadeo . On Sunday, Rastro day, both are filled to the brim, so it's almost better to go another one any day of the week.
- Nor the ANCHOVIES IN VINEGAR. The The Dolores Tavern is especially known for this cap. or those of Santona House , also famous for the quality of its artisanal anchovies.
- Not the PRAWNS how not In the boqueron, tavern located in Lavapiés, they make the best ones.
Casa Santoña, also famous for the quality of its handmade anchovies
**THE MYTHICAL (FOR TWO) **
- Voila. We have already reached **the CROQUETTES**, a creamy snack that arouses praise wherever it goes. July House - Bonus from U2 , is one of its international fans-, Casa Lucas, Casa Manolo, Javier Martín, La Palma 60 or the Gastrocroquetería de Chema are some of the ones that, yes or yes, you have to try.
- And what about the COD , of course battered, as it should be, because life tastes better in batter. Whoever falls, we must weigh for La Revuelta, Casa Labra and Casa del Bacalao.
- We cannot forget the BROKEN EGGS, caloric ecstasy where they exist and that Lucio has known how to do like no one else. His fried eggs are famous beyond the seas not so much because of the complexity of its preparation, but because of the quality of its raw material. insurmountable
THE SLIPPER
- But if Lavapiés is known for something among the most gluttonous people in Madrid, it is for Melos, a bar that is practically impossible to access due to the number of people there, but where one cannot leave without trying its mythical 'zapatilla' -very very forceful toast- nor its croquettes.
Like in Portugal, but in Goya
THE INTERNATIONAL
- In international trends we are very good at that of GO CHINESE. But not just anyone: almost everyone from Madrid knows that whoever is in the ground floor of Plaza de España he is one of the best; though for chinese chinese, Royal Cantonese , the one on the outskirts, in the neighborhood of Usera.
- In matters of 'JAPOS' , things get more special. But just like with the Chinese, if the Japanese from the city go, then it's good. Kabuki (from the Wellington hotel) is a must. But also Naomi, cheaper, or one of the last to arrive, Hattori Hanzo, authentic japanese street food next to Gran Vía.
- We could not forget ** the PIZZAS. ** Luna Rossa serves the authentic Neapolitan pizza. I don't say it, the Italians say it. Just like Ouh Babbo, made in a wood-fired oven, although in a more modern setting and surrounded by the occasional celebrity who usually wanders around the place. But we cannot fail to mention the sliced pizzas served at Pizza al Cuadrado in Malasaña or at the Pizzateca in the Huertas area.
Very daring pizzas
SWEET
- CHURROS AND CHURROS for breakfast or snack. But not only in San Ginés, where hordes of people crowd in the early morning (it is easy to distinguish between those who end a night of partying and those who just woke up and start the day). Classics like Café Comercial or boutiques like Cacao Sampaka are highly, highly recommended.
- AND CROISSANTS . In the center, Pomme Sucre -which brings the recipe from Gijón-, Mama Framboise or the typical ones of the Mallorquina, in the middle of Puerta del Sol. Although they say that those known as 'manolitos' that they make in the patisserie ** Manolo e Sons, in Tres Cantos, are probably some of the best in Madrid. **
- We also really like the ** BRUNCH ** on Sunday, a great invention with which we can have breakfast, without getting up early and without rushing, after the revelry on Saturday. Malasaña and Count Duke are two of the essential neighbourhoods, with options like Carmencita Bar -no one leaves without trying their Eggs Benedict -, Pipa & Co -they even serve hamburgers-, Magasand -if the weather is good, ask for your basket and take it as a picnic-, the Ferry one -at the most pure New York style with live jazz -, The Archibar,... and so on a long list.
The brunch take away
THE 'MADE IN' MADRID
- Because in Madrid we have a bit of everything, even our own liqueur, strawberry tree , of course, and artisan nougat , like those produced by Casa Mira after more than a century and a half of existence, and even candy, violet, Dispatched since 1915 in the traditional chocolate shop La Violeta in Plaza de Canalejas.
THE MARKETS
- And on Sundays we also like the MARKETS , but not to order the time at the greengrocer, but to have an appetizer between gourmet stalls, such as in the San Miguel, San Antón or San Ildefonso markets, or between traditional butcher stalls, such as in the San Fernando Market in Lavapiés, the most alternative of all.
- We have until itinerant markets of ECOLOGICAL products , because that is also popular here: the La Buena Vida market, the producers' market held at the Matadero or the Malasaña agro-ecological market.
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Two markets to dominate Malasaña: Barceló and San Ildefonso