Welcome to the perfect urban weekend getaway
About six years ago, during a roadtrip, my partner and I decided to stop in Bordeaux. The reason? we liked the name . We knew nothing about this city in the south of France, which Wikipedia told us was the capital of New Aquitaine.
Of course, parking and fascination were all one: we fell in love with the dark bistros, where everyone had very interesting conversations; of the intimacy of the bars, where everyone seemed to be about to fall in love; of ubiquitous art -at that moment, for some reason, he had taken to the street, and even the empty premises functioned as an improvised gallery-; of life open and hectic that breathed the city, that laughed at the door of the cafes, and that it was 11 at night. so so do we we get very close to each other at the tables, and in front of the wine, at the edge of the candles, we imagine a better future.
We promised to return and so we did. Now, after spending almost a week drifting through its streets, I know I fell in love with “the pearl of Aquitaine” for all the right reasons. To the main one, which summarizes that essence that we captured then, of an open city, of city that lives well and enjoys , are added these reasons why Bordeaux is the perfect weekend getaway :
undoubtedly beautiful
two. FOR ITS CHEESES
Perhaps this could be said of all France , I don't doubt it, but not all of France has a cheese factory Deruelle . There, Ludo - kind, affectionate like a guy you haven't seen for a long time -, with a couple of questions, create for you the perfect board from a high-end handmade product that covers all tastes.
Accompany him with baguette that sells right there, maybe add a bit of confit and jam, get yourself one of their local wines and head out for a picnic at Bordeaux Public Garden , the largest park in the city. Or, if you prefer a more secret place -and with more charm-, head to the Parc Riviere , a huge garden with trees and a castle!
If the weather is not on your side -although, in Bordeaux, with mild temperatures, it usually does-, you can also opt for the more elaborate version of Deruelle; its restaurant , which combines a demanding professionalism with a generous and familiar air. But the best thing is its cuisine: absolutely all its specialties, based on cheese, are exquisite.
Deruelle's Restaurant Delicacies
3. FOR ITS WINES
This one is pretty obvious, and not just because Bordeaux has what could be the world wine amusement park , that is, the Cite du Vin -look at its futuristic architecture-; also because the city has been international reference of this broth since the century XVIII. Today, some 14,000 producers continue the revered tradition, combining it, as in the Cité du Vin itself, with the cutting-edge technology. But what will matter to you during your visit is this: wherever you go, be it a cafe, a restaurant or a nightclub They will serve you good wine.
Four. FOR ITS SWEETS
Yeah we're just talking about stomach for now, but hadn't we agreed that it was the easiest way to reach the heart …? Also, from Bordeaux desserts one cannot hide: their smells assail you in the same street, where it is easy to see locals queuing to enjoy what in many other places remains a mere tradition.
We talk about their own sweets, the cannelés , some biscuits made with a mold similar to that of a flan and made from egg paste, sugar, milk, flour and butter. It's taste vanilla , scented with rum, is on the rise in patisseries such as the famous Baillardran , although the people of Bordeaux are actually dying for those of I touched Cuivrée .
The 'cannelés' are not only for keeping parties: they are consumed every day
There is more: the essential bakeries - Paul is an institution-, the "cookies" - La Trinitaine , with its Breton specialities, is a must-; the multiple chocolate shops -highlights Jeff of Bruges , with the most delicate delicacies and La Maison Darricau , standing since 1915- and signature patisseries -such as Marie's taquineries -.
5. FOR HIS LOVE OF BOOKS
When in a city there a bookstore every five streets , it is clear that something goes well. The Machine a Lire Y Mollat -the largest independent bookstore in France- are huge and sell all kinds of novelties, but there are occasional ones, with real bargains instead of leftovers - we're talking half-price Taschen books - as is the case with Quai des livres . Second-hand stores also have real gems; it's nice to walk, for example, by The Night of the Rois , which looks more like the lair of an extravagant sage. By the way, if you don't defend yourself in Molière's language, go to Bradley's Bookshop , where they serve both coffees and copies in English.
As if that were not enough, there is also open air book markets : Place de la Victoire is held every Friday from 7:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m.; the one of the Place des Grand Hommes , every Wednesday from 9:30 a.m. to 7:00 p.m.; the of Halle des Chartrons , the third Saturday of the month from 10:00 a.m. to 6:00 p.m., and on bacalan , the last Sunday of the month from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m.
6. FOR ITS ABILITY TO REINVENT
From 1947 to 1995, Bordeaux had the same mayor: Jacques Chaban-Delmas -Former Prime Minister of France-. The evil tongues blame him for the decay of a city that today, however, many call "Little Paris" Alain Juppe -who also held the ministerial position- commands the city ever since, and many others thank him for his revitalization as the new nickname. Get the cars out of the center -it is a city that is easy to walk on foot-, implement the trolley car -modern, convenient and silent- and turn its mythical Stock Exchange Square in World Heritage with the "simple" gesture of implementing in it the largest water mirror in the world, These are some of the achievements for which today the tourist should be grateful (and the ** instagramer **, more).
However, it seems that the entire city carries the gene of reinvention in its entrails. This is demonstrated by spaces such as the halle mouth , an old slaughterhouse that today is a gastronomic market, or Les Vivres de l'Art, yet another slaughterhouse, this time converted into a art with residences, exhibitions, workshops, concerts and parties, led by the sculptor Jean Francois Buisson.
also amazing Darwin , or what is the same, the conversion of military buildings into huge office complexes where technology start-ups, consultants , artist workshops and designers and creative agencies. It also has a great organic supermarket , a huge and cozy restaurant -with collector's arcade machines and a fun area for children-, a gigantic skate park interior and another smaller exterior, space for shows and an outdoor area also one of the most instagrammable rehabilitated based on recovered furniture, graffiti and bonfires.
Different nights in Darwin
Beyond this revitalized riverbank garonne , the river that runs through the city, there are more. For example, Le Garage Moderne , an associative car workshop that would be the perfect background for a fashion ad thanks to its decoration and its old models. Also, it has a nice Cafeteria and organizes talks, concerts, soirees and essential festivals . Even more: the Sous marine base , a Nazi submarine base that today is an impressive aquatic floor contemporary art center
And, above all, there is the Utopia Cafe , an old 14th-century church converted into cinema and cafe, where it is easy to see locals queuing at four in the afternoon to see art house cinema, while others read the newspaper and have toast and salad or café au lait. If a city like this does not give you want to stay and live in it , I don't know anymore.
By the way: Bordeaux prices are not prohibitive. They are even very affordable if you walk through Quai des Marquess , another reconversion. In this case, it is about hangars on the banks of the river, converted today into an endless succession of big brand outlet stores . There are also cafeterias and restaurants to liven up the day of consumption, as well as a highly recommended science Museum -especially designed for children, who come in hundreds on weekends-.
If you go on a Sunday, moreover, you will meet the Marche des Quais, a local grocery market of the most appetizing, where you will queue with the locals to try delicacies from the land, the sea and the air. It is open from 7:00 a.m. to 1:00 p.m., although if you go until between 1:00 p.m. and 3:00 p.m., you will find the restaurant stands still open and some craft stalls.
8. BECAUSE THE BORDEAUXES HAVE VERY GOOD TASTE
It is so. You will notice it walking, when the smug shop windows of florists, jewelers and creperies make you press your nose against the glass every few steps; when the beautiful facades of the alameda de Tourny , the Place Rohan , the cathedral of Saint-Andre or the basilicas of Saint Michel and Saint Seurin bring you echoes of the magnificence of the French capital.
Bordeaux: comfortable, walkable and beautiful
No building clouds the view; Bordeaux is built to leave space for the air, to respect those who walk and live in residences such as 9 of the beautiful, central and always lively place du Parliament. Over there, alice henry has created, in what was a 17th century building abandoned for decades, three apartments in the French way: comfortable, unique and très chic. She herself has decorated each one of the spaces, and in all of them she offers a five-star service: you can hire breakfast, offer service daily cleaning, of concierge and even of driver . And the minibar is stocked with the best wine and champagne of the area. She imagines living like a Bordeaux without giving up the luxuries of a hotel: that's Royal Villa .
The luxury of privacy of this accommodation is felt from the arrival, where nobody waits for you; Some codes, sent to your email, are what guarantee you entry to the centuries-old rock walls, to the dramatic interior patio. If you need anything - a tour of the best wine cellars ? tickets for the theater ? Do you know when it comes out? train ?- Just pick up the phone.
Each VillaReale suite has a living room, kitchen and several bathrooms and bedrooms
However, if you are one of those who love to do a grand entrance, another very French facade will surely catch your attention: the InterContinental Bordeaux - Le Grand Hotel , a gigantic manor house built in 1789 in the very heart of Bordeaux, the Place de la Comedie . It occupies the entire block, and around it, nothing but space: a gigantic space to admire from afar the 130 rooms, including 44 grand suites, all decorated with sumptuous fabrics and works of art. And, opposite, the colossal building of the Opera that inspired the creation of the Paris, designed, like the hotel itself, by award-winning architect victor louis in 1780.
Although why not enter? The people of Bordeaux do it constantly for dinner in their cute bistro, Le BordeauxGordon Ramsay , and to celebrate in Le Pressoir d'Argent , its restaurant two Michelin stars. Both are commanded, it is easy to guess, by the famous chef Gordon Ramsay , which makes the product of proximity and creativity its trademark, and it is enough to fill your lungs with delicate aromas as soon as you enter the room to understand why it is a constant critical and public favourite. (Here's a confessable whim: asking to be raised its mythical lemon tart , a Bordeaux classic, to the room) .
The InterContinental Bordeaux from the Bordeaux Opera; both buildings are by the same author
But in addition to trying the cuisine of the extraordinary chef, you will also want to cross the splendid doors of the great hotel when you know that the majestic building, with its high ceilings and eighteenth-century decoration, has been awarded in 2018 with the award for the best hotel in France in the famous World Travel Awards , the “Oscars” of tourism. The reasons are innumerable, but your spa cannot be overlooked. Les Bains de Lea , on the top floor, with views of the city's rooftops, treatments based on Nuxe which are an authentic sensory journey and a indoor pool typical of a patrician's mansion. Although how can we forget the intense pleasure of taking the penultimate in its elegant English-style bar, L'Orangerie ? And to say goodbye to the day in his rooftop , where the most unforgettable nights in the city take place…?
These will be the views from your window