The secrets that hide the rooftops of El Borne
We knew what we knew. And we went further. The Barcelona neighborhood , halfway between sea breezes and avant-garde currents, assumes with great doses of stoicism the popularity granted by its streets full of history.
the borne warmly welcomes either those who make a pilgrimage in search of the memories of ancient Barcino, or those who, like us, we arrive at the heat of the contemporary tide.
Barcelona , like other exemplary cities, has been illustrating a reality: feminism is not a passing lover . It is not a trend. Much less an ephemeral fashion. **The visibility of women as citizens of the world ** is a matter of state: of the natural state of the human being.
The artist Lara Costafreda declares: “In Catalonia the feminist movement has been important this last year, but there is still a lot to do”. Eva Saez, soul of the neighborhood ‘friend bar’, she maintains: “The role of women is increasingly relevant in this city. I love to see that businesses run by women proliferate in El Borne. we can do it ”.
The balconies of El Borne, in Barcelona
We can and we do with this two-day route: enough time to find out why this metamorphosis is as necessary as it is prodigious. Here you create, write, eat, dream... in feminine.
** MOTEL ONE BARCELONA-CIUTADELLA **
Always one step ahead El Borne opens more than 300 beds (where to dream of change or spend nights lecturing on dreams) scattered in the first Motel One in Barcelona , the German hotel chain awarded for being exemplary in essential matters such as design, honesty and gender parity.
And as dreams are not lived, Motel One Barcelona is now a reality within the reach of all those who want to sleep in Barcelona in front of the Ciutadella Park , _(Pg. Lluís Companys, 2) _, an urban lung where essential references of Barcelona's nature congregate: the Parliament of Catalonia, the Zoo, the Museum of Natural Sciences, the Castle of the Three Dragons.
Design, honesty and gender parity
And in that desire to blend in with the park, the hotel's decoration is an applause for its natural surroundings: lots of plants, a patio with Kettal furniture, colorful chairs from Moroso and B&B Italia, Nanimarquina rugs, lamps with 100 glass globes of colors… and a bar that recalls the industrial style of the Barcelona markets.
Whether contemplating the sea of greens of the mural of Lara Costafreda from a XL bed lined with Egyptian cotton , or reading to Lucia Berlin in a Freifrau armchair under an Artemide lamp , or giving an account of an assortment of Catalan delicacies, under the organic installation –on paper and metal sheets– of Anais Senli , and accommodated in one of Patricia Urquiola's armchairs.
Local references, such as those of Costafreda or Senli, artfully illustrate this change. Senli, who lives and works in Berlin, received a call from her Sala Parés gallery to let her know that the artistic director of Motel One had been fascinated by her work.
Installation by Anaïs Senli
For its part, Lara Costafreda –The first woman in her family dedicated to design– has traveled the world following her vocation: “Barcelona, London, Paris, Rio de Janeiro and, once again, Barcelona, to work with Hermes, Chanel, Fendi, Cartier … and Motel One. My work is a love letter to nature, it is an ode to her beauty and it is a desperate cry to take care of her ”.
And the female references do not stop . After consolidating her career in France, Italy and England, Noelia Minarro He returned to her native Barcelona: “I was asked to direct the first Motel One in Spain and the reception has been wonderful. It is a pleasure that a company values the person ”. She assures that her status as a woman has never been an obstacle: "I think our sector has made great strides in essential issues such as salary parity."
From Berlin, the artist Senli throws data so as not to sleep: “ In museums, female representation is still minimal . In Germany, most of them are run by men and, according to a study by the Deutschen Kultur, only one in three works in museum collections is by a woman”.
As an artist, Costafreda points out: “ Art is a mirror of society . They tell you about Picasso and Dalí, but not about Roser Bru, Angeles Santos Torroella or Maruja Mallo . We lack references, women who lead. Between 2003 and 2013, only 9.4% of solo exhibitions in top-tier museums in Spain were for women. While, in the faculties of Fine Arts in Spain, women represent 70 percent”.
The reception of the newcomer to the city
HOFMANN PASTRY _(Carrer dels Flassaders, 44) _
With or without diamonds, it is almost obligatory to try one of the best croissants in Spain -and biscuits, cakes, cookies – in this sanctuary of gastronomic excellence, opened in 2008.
Because biting into those crunchy sheets of butter is a tribute to Miss Hofman, matriarch of the homonymous school, a family business born in 1983 with a vocation for what it is today : the reference in hospitality training in Europe where some of the best chefs on the national scene come from, such as Torres brothers.
**Maria Remei Hofmann (Mey) ** studied interior architecture, gemology, economics, and jewelry design.
However, her precocious enthusiasm for her cooking, nurtured during her summers at the German boarding school in Wiesbaden, led Mey to found the prestigious hotel school – the only one with a Michelin star – and that, some time later, led to a business that brings together several restaurants of different formats – Raco Hofmann also in El Borne– and the patisserie she would have dreamed of last night Holly GolightlyBlake Edwards.
When, in 2016, Mey Hofmann took her talent to posterity, her daughter Silvia took the reins of the matriarchal business . So yes.
A sanctuary of gastronomic excellence
EPIPHANIES OF THE DIVINE
When Ildefonso Falcones dedicated his best seller to him The Cathedral of the Sea to the temple that reveres Saint Mary of the Sea Gothic architecture from the 14th century, and bastion of this artistic period in Barcelona, was an infallible attraction for travelers who swim inside it every day.
Its history, the umbilical cord of centenary Barcelona, recalls the past of the ancient Roman village of Barcino in which a small Christian community was consolidated near the sea. This was where the Martyr Saint Eulalia was buried in 303.
It is said that here could be the first chapel that, at first, was known as Saint Mary of the Sands , and at the end of the 7th century it already responded to the name of Parish of Santa Maria del Mar _(Santa Maria Square, 1) _. If you want to know the rest, sign up for one of the cultural visits (Monday-Saturday, 1:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m.) or take a walk here.
Parish of Santa Maria del Mar
With a bit of an appetite, let yourself go to the ** Santa Caterin a Market** _(Av. Francesc Cambó, 16) _. Its colorful roof with sinuous wooden shapes adds lyricism and architectural avant-garde to the Cathedral neighborhood and, under the ceramic mosaic of Tony Comella , a colorful network of stalls daily pumps out the idiosyncrasies of a food market that was once the convent of Santa Caterina.
Since 2005, culminating the work entrusted to the study and married couple formed by Enric Miralles and Benedetta Tagliabue , the one that was first covered market in Barcelona It is a show for fans of architecture and the magic of neighborhood markets.
At the end of the day, you can pay homage right there, between the stoves of Cuines of Santa Caterina , in the hands of the Midas of the local restoration: Skylight Group . A fact for romantics: Caterina is the name of the daughter of Enric and Benedetta. Discover her story here.
** L'ERUDITE CONCEPT STORE _(Flassaders, 31) _**
Everything that can inspire her name has a lot to do with this haven of design: it is erudite and conceptual, bohemian soul and parisian style.
Elsa Gateaux decided that El Borne was the perfect neighborhood to put at the service of the people of Barcelona this impeccable compilation of craft pieces which includes fashion accessories, decorative objects and books to read and display.
This 31-year-old Frenchwoman's pulse trembled slightly when, after ten years as a lawyer and a flat in Paris , she considered it sensible to fulfill her dream. And today the showcase of L'Erudite Concept Store it becomes a staging of her success: objects by emerging artists from her native country and attachment for a style away from removable trends.
Between its half-painted stone walls, you will find wooden furniture as exhibitors and scattered in a space of 75 m² where designer shoes, fashion and accessories live ; and art books from the best publishers in the sector.
The most educational thing is to enter Elsa's house and lose yourself in this feminine map of French sounds: Isadora Limare, Camille Roussel, Pied de Biche, Delphine Lopez (Maradji) and Coralie de Seynes.
For having, it even has the beautiful and illustrated chocolate bars of Le Chocolat des Français. Of course, the class does not understand trends.
** THE BORN CENTER OF CULTURE AND MEMORY _(Plaça Comercial, 12) _**
Located in the old market, the ** Born Center of Culture and Memory ** dedicates its new era to culture and has become a transforming milestone in the neighborhood. Opened in 1876, the born market it is, in its own right, a bastion of iron architecture in Barcelona at the end of the 19th century.
Today, whatever Ciutadella military fortress It is dedicated to the memory of its recent past as the Born market and to the local culture with a rich program of musical, literary and theatrical activities.
On this particular route, the culture center deserves a prominent position. The culmination of the feminine visibility of the Born CCM It's not exactly visible to everyone.
It is in the rear: an eminently female team watches over the memory of the old market: from the management, in the hands of Montserrat Iniesta, or the educational services, which she supervises Rosana Fibla , going through the control of the center's activities, where Anna, Lluisa and Neus they have a lot to say.
Other Anna manage historical content and publications; and Dolors is in charge of administration and security. Eugenia looks after the conservation department and, Pilar and Maria , the administration.
While Lourdes and Elizabeth They are in charge of telling the press and the world what is happening at the Born CCM. And what happens here is that Eduard and Alfonso are a minority of an exemplary team.
COFFEE PONY _(23, Carrer del Portal Nou) _
As soon as you enter the pony you know it could be your favorite place in the world. With the humility granted by the honorable office of making others happy, Eva Sáez handles the art of serving a cane as the scriptures command.
This requires some experience being The waitress (“I say it in capital letters to highlight the work that we waiters do”) and a lot of generosity : “In the Pony you can find people of all kinds. Nobody here feels out of place. Eva, along with her brother, runs the reins of this friendly Borne bar: “12 years ago we opened it with the intention of offering a space where anyone would feel comfortable with the treatment, the music and the beers –they say they are well thrown –”.
In a few square meters, r ein the conversation around a bar of 'those of a lifetime' . At Pony Café, everything is exhibited without artifice: the Mahou reeds, the cocktails at a good price, the relaxed atmosphere and even the country people who, with great style, surprise you by making you feel at home.
so does Sergio Go, an exceptional guide : “The reeds shoot well here. And know? The Catalans, from the third Mahou, we look like people from Madrid ”. Still laughing, he asks for the first two, and adds: "You can enter the Pony alone and, at the end, end up talking to the whole bar."
At the other end, Eva converses in English with two newcomers: “ When they return to Barcelona, many remember us. We love . I think that, aside from tourism, El Borne has evolved without ceasing to squander life. I try to make people a little happier here in ‘the bar friend’, as many know us”.
** CAL BRUT _(Princess 42) _**
"Possibly the dirtiest bar in the world." With that motto, any parishioner with a little judgment and a sense of humor will rush to see who is the genius behind such a (and somewhat suicidal) harangue.
In the heat of this sentence, her brief menu puts at our disposal a selection of local rarities, international references, vermouths and mixed drinks at exquisite prices (appetizing) that pay for their variety in tortillas and sausages imbued with country soul.
Yes ok Mark runs this retreat of brief whims, Leah (like her Pony's colleague) puts her presence and power in a tavern that, among her virtues, She displays on her website a particular collection of proverbs that is perfect for bar and party professionals: Tell Cal Brut . Geniuses of the human condition: ‘Posa'm a fifth that I'n vaig’ (give me a fifth I'm leaving) , If you drink to forget, pay before you start or ‘Sóc cambrer no psicoleg’ (I'm a waiter, not a psychologist).
FISMULER BARCELONA _(Carrer del Rec Comtal, 17) _
Just a handful of months (and tables) have been enough for Nino Redruello, Patxi Zumárraga and Jaime Santianes convince the most sagacious gourmets of Barcelona.
After passing through the kitchens of elBulli in 2002, the three chefs have paraded through kitchens here and there, always in parallel currents. Redruello and Zumarraga have left their recognizable mark on Fismuler Madrid. And once the land was paid, they have landed with their unbeatable proposal, and together with the Asturian Santianes, on the paved floor of the old Rec Comtal , in what are now the lower part of the Hotel Rec de Nuñez i Navarro.
His weapons of mass creation sustain the essence of his brother from Madrid, heir to the know-how of the Redruello family – architects, among others, of La Ancha or the Gabinoteca –: honesty, a letter that is governed by kilometer zero and by the market, apparent simplicity and impeccable execution between plaster and adobe walls, steel and concrete plates on the floor and light wicker lamps that illuminate grandmother's crockery.
On the menu, the most acclaimed recipes from Madrid they already add devotees in their new headquarters – nettle omelette, semi-cured bream with almonds and grapes and sea urchins stuffed with love –, which they illuminate with other places such as cuttlefish and sausage meatballs. To the sound of the festival, their homemade macerations dance on the bar: white almond whiskey, gin with roasted apple or allspice vodka.
However. Fismuler Barcelona is governed under the baton of a woman: Elena Morcillo : “It has been a beautiful experience. El Borne is the perfect place to develop this project in Barcelona . I came to stay." And she adds: “Hospitality is a wonderful and hard world, which requires great effort, sacrifice and teamwork. A team that complies with gender parity in Madrid and is going the same way in Barcelona”.
Elena applauds the opportunities of her host city: “ The city offers many possibilities for a woman to reach the top of her career ”. And she says goodbye with a dessert: “I love this neighborhood, it's pure history. It seems to be designed to get lost... sometimes it reminds me of La Latina ”.
Just a handful of tables (and months) in the city
The XAMPANYET _(Carrer de Montcada, 22) _
Two steps from Picasso museum –Her artistic legacy of hers would give for a monograph–, and in search of the penultimate talk, there is nothing more therapeutic and healthy than a tavern meeting with fellow travelers: dissertations at a hundred decibels and black jokes to the beat of… champagne? in one of the most substantial places in a neighborhood that preserves (and what do you preserve) some jewels such as The Xampanyet.
And why close this route in a century-old tavern? For his collection of benefits declared of public interest : the brilliance of authenticity –a quality in danger of extinction in the era of franchises–, the enormously sized preserves (mussels, anchovies, anchovies), as well as the Catalan sausage montaditos (slow applause) , and, of course, course, for the concoction that gives its name to the bar: xampanyet, a smooth homemade cava whose charm , also public, lies in the sorority caused by toasts in those glasses of French champagne that flood Instagram.
Do not panic: here the 'chin chin' also tastes like delicious siphon vermouth, foamy beers and wines by the glass at a bar that since 1929 has been giving joy to a few generations. Of women, of course.