There are not a few times that we have extolled the gastronomy of León. in the province of Leon you eat side by side and wherever you go there is always something new to discover. From Laciana and Babia to El Bierzo or from La Bañeza to Maragatería.
But if there is a common denominator that puts León on the gastronomic map, that is without a doubt his famous botillo. Because the botillo is something that is eaten throughout León and out of it, though not all places have the same name nor is it made in the same way. What is clear is that its root is in El Bierzo and, as such, it must be understood.
Landscape of El Bierzo.
A MILLENARY SAUSAGE
Botillo is a sausage that comes from an ancient tradition. It's known that the Romans when they occupied Hispania already stuffed into animal guts all kinds of meats that were later salted. It is believed that the botillo could come from the word botulus, which means 'stuffed meat', and that has surely reached our days as an evolution of the original sausage. Although the lack of written references has made it very difficult historians mark a starting point.
During the Middle Ages it is known that the botillo was a food that the monks made that were distributed throughout the El Bierzo region for centuries. The proliferation of pilgrims who took the Camino de Santiago helped the botillo to become popular and cease to be a dish for some small classes. In fact the botillo managed to feed many hungry mouths who were on their way to pay homage to the saint, a tradition that has been maintained to this day.
Also, with the appearance of paprika, conservation processes were revolutionized of food, including meats and sausages. Forks one of the most important ingredients of botillo since, in addition, it grants to this delicious dish of Leonese gastronomy its such a unique taste.
They also serve it at home.
Today the botillo continues to be made in an artisanal way although the advance of the consumer society has led to industrial production. And although this has allowed botillo to reach mass consumption, there is a great debate within Leonese society in defense of the traditional botillo. Because the artisan always has its popular defense, especially when it comes to a delicacy that is part of the backbone of Bercian gastronomy.
Later the smoked would arrive. In the houses, the artisan botillo is smoked in a fire with sticks. Formerly, there was always a space that was left for this task. It is what was known as old stoves or smokehouses. The jowls, the masks, the sausages, the bacon, the ham, the cecina, the ribs and of course the botillo were smoked. it's very normal find this second kitchen in the houses of the villages of Bierzo, which is still a way of preserving a tradition that will never disappear.
Sausage from El Bierzo.
THE BOTTLE ACCORDING TO THE EXPERTS
If there is a place in León where you can get hold of a botillo out of series, that is in La Rosaleda (San Pedro, 3), a corner of the Leonese capital full of the best of the best in terms of Leonese gastronomy. After 20 years, Josefa Mayo runs this curious store located very close to the cathedral that could well go unnoticed, but it is well known by those who want real products from León. In fact, her botillo is highly demanded by him Paul restaurant for her creations, one of the Michelin stars that León has.
Josefa welcomes us behind the counter, and she shows us the traditional botillo, the one that ensures that It is eaten when the cold arrives and in time of slaughter. And she tells us how it is made: "It is a pork casing that has marinated rib, marinated pig tail and tongue. There are those who put backbone, but always everything marinated. It gets into the casing, marinates and cures a little bit".
Uncooked botillo.
Later, after and how the expert explains to us while she shows us one of those bottles that gives off a smell that would wake a dead man: "You put smoke and heat so that the gut contracts a little and closes. Heat and smoke so that it takes the consistency, that it drips and dries. In drying, with less than a month in the air it would be worth it, but it depends on the texture that each one wants. One month and a half It's more than fine for me."
Each botillo is eaten in a different way, although the traditional is eat it cooked with cabbage and potato, which is traditional. “In my house we also do it with rice. It is done in the same way as with potatoes and cabbage, but in addition a sauce with onion, garlic and pepper is added”, continues Josefa, but clarifying that When you cook the botillo you have to remove a little of the fat and foam it so that it is not so heavy. Of ten.
Today, not only whole botillos are sought after. In fact, something that has caught our attention at La Rosaleda is that the 'individual' bottles are sold. Josefa laughs, says that it is now very normal to distribute all the stew and that each one has their share of the botillo equally. Of course, there are no fights like that.
A charming store.
MORE THINGS ABOUT THE BOTTLE
Outside the region of El Bierzo we find many denominations that are made from botillo or sausages very similar to botillo. There are some areas, such as Carrizo, Ribera del Órbigo or southern Asturias where they know him as llosco. There are other variants like androlla, smaller, which is eaten in El Bierzo and Maragatería. In some parts of Galicia they call it butelo. It will be by names!
The botillo has its own festival, declared a Festival of National Tourist Interest, and It is celebrated in the municipality of Bembibre since 1972 . This year 2021 has been canceled due to the pandemic but the National Festival of Exaltation of the Botillo will return next February 19 from 2022 with exhibitions, book presentations and a lot of botillo for everyone.
The journalist Luis del Olmo has always been a great promoter of botillo. Coming from Ponferrada, the famous radio announcer has been botillo ambassador receiving many awards and recognitions for this , even from the Spanish Federation of Hospitality.
Botillo croquettes.
the bottle has Protected Geographical Indication and Regulatory Council since the year 2000. It was born from the need to preserve this precious dish, as well as to establish the scales in which a quality botillo must be elaborated. Although this does not mean that many families make botillos at home, more in the villages. It is tradition.
The Botillo empanada is one of the gastronomic hypes of the entire region. But in addition, in León they also dare with other creations, such as botillo croquettes from La Casa del Botillo in Ponferrada, the obligatory stop if you visit that beautiful city of Leon. And in the Pablo restaurant, they do wonders with Josefa Mayo's botillo, like some small botillo delicacies that are included in the tasting menu. Who said it couldn't be done haute cuisine with the botillo?