Irati: autumn pleasure for the senses
The main accesses to the Irati Forest are found in the towns of Orbaizeta (Aezkoa Valley) and Ochagavía (Salazar valley), both at a long hour from Pamplona .
If we opt for the first option we can enjoy the spectacular weapons factory ruins , whose grayish walls –eaten by vegetation– contrast drastically with the green that dominates its surroundings. However, we chose to enter through Ochagavía, an idyllic village of just over 500 inhabitants bathed by the Zatoya and Anduña rivers , where we will take a quick tour of its cobblestone streets and bridges, taking advantage of the fact that we stop to buy groceries: water, fruit, bread and cold cuts for the sandwiches.
Ochagavía
We start the access by car through the NA2012 , and immediately we will begin to enjoy the incredible views offered by the infinite masses of beech and fir trees. Depending on how advanced autumn is (and before winter arrives, since beech forests are deciduous) we will find the leaves with the different colors of the traffic light: green, yellow or red.
With climate change, it is increasingly difficult to predict when they will be in one way or another (the more color contrasts, the more spectacular), so we must resign ourselves to going when we can and enjoy what we find , which will not disappoint in any case.
On the way to the heart of the Jungle we got off for a moment at the Tapla viewpoint, with a parking lot on the right, whose panoramic views make it necessary to take out the camera. It will be easy to see some of the 20,000 sheep or 2,000 cows that graze in its wide meadows during the hot months.
Green, yellow and red slopes
After a while we will find a guard at the access to the car park, who will give us directions depending on the influx. After paying 5 euros per car in exchange for a map and a seat , we parked at the Casas del Irati (Iratiko Etxeak), the epicenter of the forest with a bar/restaurant, an information point, a cheese shop, fountains and rubbish bins, commonly known as the Virgin of the Snows Area by the hermitage in ruins that there are in its surroundings.
Our appetite has already worked up, so we take advantage of its extensive picnic areas to eat a sandwich before starting the walk.
Irati: you will believe in magic again
Numerous circular routes start from this reception area , of a more than affordable level and ideal to do with the family. We have the Paseo de los senses (SL Na 61A trail), a simple route of just 2 kilometers that will take us to the hermitage crossing the river Urtxuria, or the trail of the Urbeltza River (SL Na 62A) , a circular route of just over 3 kilometres.
We opted for one of the most typical, the Zabaleta Forest Trail , designated as SL Na 63A. It is a circular route of about eight kilometers whose way we do it through the upper part, with the path winding through the trees.
It is, according to legend, from the kingdom of Basajaun, mythical character and lord of the forest , of superhuman strength, long hair and oversized stature that will remind the Spirit of the forest to everyone who has seen the Princess Mononoke.
The myth advises not to run away if we cross his path, since if we obey his orders he will become our protective guide throughout our visit.
Let yourself be carried away by postcards like this
In about an hour (depending on our pace) the dilapidated forest house and its surroundings will announce that we have reached the Irabia reservoir , one of the most magical places in the enclave, where you have to sit down and enjoy the views before turning around ( this is the return point of the route ) .
The surface of its water reflects the vivid colors of the beeches, offering a surreal optical effect ideal for photography. A cable crosses from one shore to the other to make a zip line at some time of the year (we for free, of course, we did not even consider it), and we can also approach the end of the reservoir to peek at its prey.
Irabia Reservoir
The return to the reception area runs through the lower part of the forest, parallel to the river . We may run into the Lamiak , magical beings that live in streams (equivalent to nymphs, fairies or mermaids). Some legends say that they do not leave the forest except to attend to their nightly work. Others, more ominous, say that take advantage of cloudy days to take the spirit of a certain Doña Juana de Labrit for a walk , Huguenot queen poisoned in Paris, making everyone who is in her path disappear.
We wouldn't mind staying and living in this unique spot, but it hasn't been foggy at all and we've returned safely to the car park. Perhaps it was thanks to Basajaun's protection, so it's time to say goodbye to the faun host until next year and start the way back to our home, hotel or rural house to have a hot dinner before night falls.
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