Almodovar del Rio, Cordoba
travel to Almodovar del Rio It's perfect this time of year. From afar we know that the arrival to the town of Cordoba is imminent when in the distance the powerful castle that dominates the town from the top of the hill , acting as guardian angel and watchman during so many long centuries of conquests and occupations.
We have reached the places of the most beautiful and intoxicating part of the Vega del Guadalquivir , a landscape dotted with small inland valleys and marshes . The river wiggles with sinuous meanders describing a riverside full of life and that has been the reason why the crop fields have proliferated in this area, bursting into colors that change as each season dies, leaving movie sunrises.
Almodovar del Rio
ONE OF THE BEST PRESERVED CASTLES IN SPAIN
The land was one of the reasons why the Romans saw in this enclave the perfect place for a settlement, a place that would later become a town. which could be the Roman city of Cárbula . Actually, this town was in a alternative path to the Via Augusta that united two of the great cities of Hispanic Rome: Cordoba and Hispalis . That is why in Almodóvar del Río there are still vestiges of this Roman past , such as its olive groves or the ruins of what was a Roman portus that, today, can only offer a timid photo to remember.
The pass of the muslims marked a before and after in the history of the city. They were responsible for the castle construction that has made this small city of Cordoba a benchmark in the route of the castles of our country . The castle was built in the year 760 by the Arabs and rebuilt in later centuries , revealing a majestic bearing Mudejar Gothic that leaves the visitor speechless.
The castle stands on a round hill which in Andalusian language was called Al-Mudawar , origin of the current name of the city. It is currently called Hill of the Forest and has witnessed the passage of the different civilizations that have populated these lands. You have to go up a zigzag road to the entrance of the castle where you can start the visit and let yourself be dazzled by one of the the most fabulous views of the entire Vega del Guadalquivir.
The visit of the castle can be dramatized and define a tour two walled enclosures bounded by eight imposing towers , all in an incredible state of conservation. Going through the walls is almost transporting you to a chapter of Game of Thrones , imagining the comings and goings of knights errant and courtiers through the narrow streets. The last restoration that the castle underwent was in 1902 and it took almost three decades to complete it. This last restoration allowed the opening of new rooms such as the library or the medieval tavern , a place where medieval cinema meals are organized.
At present, the castle is private property and the family that owns this marvel gives the spaces for the organization of events and film shoots.
Almodovar del Rio
LUXURY GASTRONOMY AND VERY CURIOUS MUSEUMS
Before entering the town it is very important to visit the Plains of Almodóvar del Río , a small place where the Angel Estevez Ethnological Museum . In this peculiar museum you can go through the twentieth century through the field workers of this locality, its day laborers and its landowners. Until 4,000 elements of country life are exhibited in this museum , something that makes it one of the most important collections in Andalusia.
Another of the curious collections that can be found in Almodóvar del Río is that of sewing machines (Homer, 18). And it was all due to the initiative of a man from Carbou to collect sewing machines after trying to repair a relative's machine in the 1980s. Since then he has gotten collect almost two hundred , some of them very popular at the time of the Spanish Civil War and that today are missing.
Typical houses of Almodóvar del Río
Strolling through the town is undoubtedly one of the most wonderful pleasures; get lost in those cobbled alleys surrounded by resplendent whitewashed houses, typical of all Andalusian towns . The streets of Almodóvar smell of bread ovens, they are adorned with balconies from which colorful geraniums hang and whisper through its simple people, those who sit every night at the door of their house to talk to your neighbors.
To eat, many of the neighbors themselves will recommend that you try the famous dungeon , his famous almond soup and as, a good salmorejo . At the carbulense table there are not many more missing Traces of the Arab heritage in gastronomy such as asparagus or game dishes such as wild boar, venison or partridge . And we wouldn't be in Cordova if we didn't order some flamenquines with some pestiños for dessert . In order not to make a mistake, we recommend three places to eat:
- The bar (Antonio Machado,24). It is possibly the most authentic place, a restaurant with an old Andalusian air and some croquettes that take your breath away. It is important to ask about the pickled partridges and their daggerboard loin.
The Tavern of Almodóvar del Río
The Forest (Medina Azahara, 1). This brasserie is ideal to go hungry for grilled meat . In addition to having some very rich flamenquines , at the bar there is a good selection of skewers for those who prefer a somewhat more forceful tapas.
Grandma Oven (Almond trees, 4). It must be the last stop. Don José Antonio's oven has the best sweets in town and it will be impossible for you not to open your suitcase again to take home a country bread or some sweets.
DID YOU KNOW…
The castle has been the scene of Game of Thrones . In fact it is normal to see part of the passages and the castle dungeon in the seventh season. Today it is still available for filming movies and series.
Olenna Tyrell leaning out of the window of the castle of Almodóvar del Río
The name of Almodóvar del Río is carbulense , winking at the Roman city of Cárbula, which was the seed of the current town. But at present the demonym that has been normalized is that of "cuckoo", without historical basis but with a long popular tradition.
The Breña reservoir , in the vicinity of Almodóvar del Río has become in recent years a perfect place for water sport lovers . In addition to having a beach with umbrellas for the summer, kayaking, water skiing or water boarding can be practiced in its waters.
Among the many legends that run around the castle, the most surprising is that of “The Enchantment” . It's about the moorish princess zaida , who lived in the castle in the 11th century and who she decided to die of grief locked up when she found out about the death of her husband . It is said that Zaida's cries and lamentations are heard in some rooms of the castle and some of them claim to have seen her appear.
La Vega del Guadalquivir is a highly appreciated destination in Andalusia for nature lovers. In the La Breña II Nature Activity Center (Carretera del Pantano s/n) will tell you everything you need to know if you want to go zip lining, discover hiking trails or join bird watching groups.