Valencia is on fire (more than ever)
all they mean the faults can be summed up in the mascleta . Two hundred and forty kilos of gunpowder explode in just over five minutes. The choreography of chaos, of life and death; the sound, the fury, the fear (there are moments of pure fear) , the passion and celebration of the most atavistic existence that I have witnessed.
Nineteen earthquakes —since March 1—, nineteen rumbles that make our heads (and hearts) explode and remind us the beauty of anarchy ; how I would have enjoyed Marinetti (founder of futurism) the mascleta : "We want to sing the love of danger, the habit of energy and recklessness." Failures are also many other things — flowers, crafts, colors and enthusiasm ; but essentially the smell of gunpowder, outburst, fire and rebirth.
And, of course, gastronomy. Eat and drink , share and enjoy all the wonderful culinary offerings that vibrate in this city on fire...
Valencia is on fire (more than ever)
PAELLA
These are good times for paella. That because? First, because it is the best dish in the world (chiton at this point) ; secondly, because more and more restaurants in Cap i Casal make rice in good condition (it may seem contradictory, but not so long ago this was not so common) and finally, because thanks to the initiative of La Fallera we are going to have paella as an emoji on all smartphones in the world, placing it at the height of nigiri, taco or pizza —and the monkey with his arms raised. Wonderful paellas in Valencia at Casa Carmela (on Malvarrosa beach), at the fantastic El Gran Azul (opposite the old Mestalla) and at Casa Roberto, right in the center.
Good lemon AND SLOW FIRE
FRITTERS
churros and fritters , alert! The Valencian streets are crammed with street stalls — We invented street food! — and that is wonderful because there is no better remedy for a hair-raising hangover (and in Fallas you will have quite a few…) than a good handful of greasy donuts , but of course: finding a decent churrería is like looking for a needle in a haystack. Our favourites? The essential pumpkin fritters of the Horchateria Fabian (sacred, before going to find a place in the mascletà), also the churros and chocolate from Horchatería El Collado or, why not, L'Orxateria del Mercat Central.
Buñyols, the perfect street food was born here (or so we want to believe)
L'ESMORZARET
In truth I tell you that, almost as important as paella, it is L´Esmorzaret for the Valencian gastronomic imaginary. the ritual of L´Esmorzaret Is sacred; neither brunch nor cupcakes —Our mid-morning sandwich (with peanuts from the collaret, tomatoes from the garden, olives, squid or bravas) has done more for Mediterranean civilization than any congress of deputies. What sandwich to choose? The extreme purist would tell you that a pepito or a brascada , but what do I know: freedom. my temples of L´Esmorazet They are La Pascuala (that horse meat…), Central Bar or Benito Bazán's majestic potato omelette in the Alhambra Bar . Really: no esmorzaret no party.
No esmorzaret no party
PEKING PORK SANDWICH
One of the beautiful things about Las Fallas is its absolutely international character; his open vocation (this is not the April Fair) and cosmopolitan . There are falleros, yes, but also visitors from all over the planet take to the streets without prejudice (and little desire for trouble) under a single flag: pleasure . Our restaurants have also taken over the multicultural character: right now Valencia —partly thanks to those two titans called Quique Dacosta and Ricard Camarena— is a city where you can eat tacos, nigiris, enchiladas, ceviches, causa limeña, curry, dim sums or Pad Thai. And the best icon of this moment cannot be other than the Peking pork sandwich at Canalla Bistró; hard drug.
Camarena and Dacosta like a painting
VALENCIA WATER
I'll tell you a secret: in Valencia you don't drink Valencia water . Perhaps it is the fault of those cogorzas of youth (aha, when we drank almost anything), but the point is that the famous "agua de Valencia" is a combination — cava, orange juice, vodka and gin, there is nothing — reserved for outsiders and tourists. However, it is still a cocktail that, prepared with taste, brightens the mood and prepares for the most Fallas revelry (in addition, it is served in a jar, perfect for sharing); the essential classic is El Café de las Horas.
In Valencia you don't drink Valencia water but...
BRAVE
Sun? Bravas, do you fail? Bravas Terrace? Bravas Happiness? brave . My position is clear, isn't it? And the fact is that more than horchata, paella, oranges or fritters... the most resoundingly Fallero dish is bravas: spicy, informal and tasty . A well-sauced brava on the fork and a glass of wine in hand: total pleasure. Fallen Nirvana. Fortunately, in Valencia there are not a few restaurants that embroider this world heritage dish (isn't it?). I love the ones at Bar Ricardo, Askua, Come y Calla (by Alejandro Platero, in Campanar), Rausell and Casa Jomi.
Bravas as a way of life
HORCHATA
** Daniel is the temple and I will not be the one who comes to say the opposite.** Horchatería Daniel is located in (seriously) the avenue of l´Orchata, Alboraya . Since 1960 he has led the Tortajada family making the tiger nut's homeland, the good news? that not so long ago you can also get fed up with horcahta and fartons at their local Mercado de Colón (one of the essential places that you cannot not visit) where you can also enjoy La casa de l'orxata. More horchata in the capital of Túria? Of course: the (mythical) chocolate shop Santa Catalina, or, why not, one facing the sea at Horchatería Toni.
Horchata (or, rather, orxata)
NIGIRI
I want to finish (yes) with a nigiri . Ferràn Adrià says that “In two generations, sushi will be as Spanish as croquettes”; and you know what? I agree. It is one of the wonderful things that this gastronomy has: that mutates and evolves . Which is about roots (and the past) but also about changes and the future. And it is that Japanese cuisine —and proposals such as Nozomi, Komori, Tastem or Momiji; They have turned the nigiri into a snack that is as “ours” as the bravas.
We'll see you on the streets.
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Nigiri (or the new 'bravas')
* You may also be interested in... - 48 hours in Valencia - Marinetti's futuristic cuisine and the tale of avant-garde cuisine - In defense of the sandwich - How to flirt with a Valencian - The most beautiful towns in the Valencian Community - Markets to eat them: the Central Market of Valencia - Neighborhoods that do: Ruzafa in Valencia - Gastronomic Valencia: a city on fire - Reasons to discover Valencia - Restaurants without a star in Valencia - Melopeas: a sentimental tour of those bar naughtiness - Street map castizo food - The enigma of Ricard Camarena - Nineteen things you do not know about Quique Dacosta