An ode to THIS
Let's speak clearly. We are a bit fed up with so much nonsense, both gourmet, foodie and food critic (bloody they are) with their dishes of the year, their photos without shadows and their alginates. Today we will not talk about making love, we will talk about fucking. And it is that a squid sandwich is exactly the same as a Bellucci a Knightley to a butterfish nigiri with truffle (or what did they think).
Write Julius Camba (all standing) : “I foresee that in the course of a very few generations the art of eating will have been entirely replaced by the science of nourishing oneself . The kitchen dies, and dies returning to its origins, like the man who, as he grows older, loses his virility and falls into childishness”. And so many times in nonsense, I add.
Today we will talk about sandwiches.
The origin of the sandwich must be sought in Ancient Egypt (is there an origin that should not be sought in Ancient Egypt?), specifically in pita bread and the so-called Shawarma (kebabs for friends). Also in American Indian corn tortillas and much later in colleague John Montagu, 4th Earl of Sandwich. But here we are not here to talk about boring Rodilla sandwiches but about bo-ca-tas . Fat Stroke Pleasure: **Petrol Cars, Islay Whiskey, and Resalim-Free Hangovers**. Sandwiches as God commands.
Here are some of my favorites:
**1) Veal sandwich with caramelized onion at the Aquarium (Valencia) **
The Aquarium is the best lunch bar in Valencia (from the classic l'esmorzar) and probably in the world. And it is that if there is something left over in the wooden bar of this temple opened in 1957 to the greater glory of the Valencian bourgeoisie of the Ensanche, it is principles, education and criteria. The best? That nothing has changed, that **sandwiches are for crying (but crying well, not crying like Pablo Alborán)** and that José Indalecio continues to prepare the best Dry Martinis in Valencia. And beyond.
The "rocadillos" of the Roca brothers at the Hotel Omm
**2)Squid sandwich in the Plaza Mayor (Madrid) **
I know. It's topical and sad like the Sunday fanny pack and its photo at Kilometer 0. The worst. I know you expect something else (higher, classier) from Mantel & Cuchillo but we are talking about sandwiches and Eating a squid sandwich in any bar in La Mayor is eating a piece of Madrid. A dirty sandwich , in the best sense of the word: greasy, rotund and campechando . A sandwich that seems to shout "I'm here!". And (as my dear Capodecina fearlessly affirms) the filthier the food you eat, the more entertaining it will be to search for flavors of foods previously fried in the same oil: a touch of chorizo over there, some torreznitos over here. We recommend a lot of lemon and little nonsense.
**3) Wagyu sandwich with sweet tomato sour cream at StreetXO (Madrid) **
What are we going to say here about David Muñoz that we haven't already said? . This crazy -wonderful cook- lives installed in change, that uncomfortable corner that for everyone is cold and ungrateful. The cold solitude of-the-new. “Life begins when you leave your comfort zone”, they say: the comfort of the known, the fluffy warmth of routine and things-that-work.
David has turned Madrid upside down with madness, music and the tremendous views from the sky of Callao. Canallism, rock'n'roll and that special sense of adventure that should be (which here is) every gastronomic experience. And the pleasure of getting your fingers dirty with steamed roasted wagyu sandwich with sweet tomato sour cream.
Eggplant, cheese and tomato
**4) The esmorsaret of La Pascuala (Valencia) **
Curious concept, l'have lunch. In Madrid they call lunch the snack at noon, in Catalonia and Mallorca l'esmorzar refers to the first hearty meal of the day (breakfast) before the start of the working day. In Valencia, being as we are so given to gastronomic bohemia, l'emorzar is the sacred sandwich at eleven in the morning; sandwich, tapas, cane or rioja in a flat glass . And there is no better example than the quarter bar sandwiches from this winery located in the heart of Cabanyal. His speciality? Brascada with horse meat, grilled ham and onion. Not suitable for cheesy, obviously.
**5)Rocadillos de los Roca and farmhouse chicken Catalan style at Fastvínic (Barcelona) **
One next to the other because they respond a little to the same tendency to recover the tavern, the flavors and the tribute to eating well of a lifetime . To the local, seasonal and ecological product through the popular delicacy par excellence: the sandwich. From the same Monvínic team is Fastvínic (Diputación 251) where the Catalan peasant chicken sandwich makes me crazy.
As for Roca Bar, well, what the hell, they are the Roca. At the OMM hotel the star - mine, at least, along with the tiraditos - are the "rocks" , which are nothing more than the traditional sealed muffins with stews inside: oxtail in red wine, a chicken with mole, an escalivada with goat cheese and black olives or my favorite: lightly smoked eel with teriyaki.
And more, many more. This list would be eternal (you can and should add your favorites in the comments). We could continue with the hems of Manuel Antonio Rodríguez at the Bar de la Punta San Felipe (Cádiz), with the Chistorra de Navarra at Frankfurt (Barcelona), with the Ricard Camarena sandwich at Central Bar (Valencia): pork loin, caramelized onion, cheese and mustard . With the bacon, cheese, peppers and tomato sandwich from the Canto Cochino bar in La Pedriza (just outside Madrid), with the chicken curry from La Harina (Puerta de Alcalá) or the Veal nugget with piquillo peppers from Borda Berri (Saint Sebastian) . so many...
Master Camba closes. “In the meantime, dear reader, let us eat the best we can. Let's eat like pregnant women, not only for us but also for our future succession. Let us eat, finally, considering that, after us, hardly anyone in the world is going to eat anymore, and that the truffles and wines that we despise now, despised, will continue to remain for ever and ever...”
Amen.
Farmhouse chicken sandwich from Fastvínic