Michelin stars 2020: Andalusia and Cantabria shine at a Michelin Gala where there was little shine
David Moralejo and Jesus Terres (director and food writer for Condé Nast Traveler) talk about the divine, the human and the edible in the context of new Stars at the Michelin Gala 2020 , held in Seville.
Terrestrial: The Prado National Museum turns 200 years old, a good chicken has been set up with the ERE and Karina Sainz has just published her barbiturate chronic in chalk circle . Rosalía has made a big mess at the Latin Grammys (this is almost no longer news), we have freaked out with Franco's will and I read with amazement that Jose Luis Perales retires (I don't even want half a joke with the author of 'Why are you leaving'). We have also celebrated new Michelin stars awarded by the Michelin Guide Spain and Portugal 2020 in Seville. In Seville it had to be.
Let's make it shine... shall we?
Moral : Friend Jesús, allow me to sneak into your chronicle to confirm that yes, Perales is leaving -"and he left", that is- and that indeed, in Seville it had to be, but under immense rain, here always a pure wonder since that dubbing team went over the brakes when My Fair Lady.
Such jarreo has come well to compensate for the rickety rain of stars that the Michelin Guide of Spain and Portugal has dropped into his 2020 edition . Nothing new under the clouds and nothing that seems to affect the team despite the criticism: they bark, then we ride.
Terres : We ride (chefs and journalists) I think, a little because we have to talk about something but essentially because of that genius of Oscar Wilde, “being part of society is a nuisance, but being excluded from it is a tragedy”. that one thing is rajar de la rouge (I do it every two times three) and quite another to deny the evidence that when it comes to muscle, credibility and noise there is only one guide , so let's go with the prizes, boss, that the only one new three stars goes to Cantabria.
Moral : The only tristarred at night, ** El Cenador de Amós , in Villaverde de Pontones **, which also serves to confirm that ** Coque , Santceloni , Enjoy and Mugaritz **, eternal loser in these galas, were left without that much-claimed third for gastrophile fervour. More of the same for classics like **Los Marinos José**, **Estimar**, **La Tasquita de Enfrente** and sasha , who continue without their star but who cares, if they burst capacity and their fans are in another galaxy . Lera deserves a separate mention, fixed in the pools of all the gurus, this year more than ever, and absolute winner of the Michelin Guide 2020 without the roll that the white-red jacket entails: they have not given it to him again , ok, but the clamor resounds before a house and a cook, Luis Alberto Lera , which if we become canonical would deserve not one, but three because, I transcribe literally from the commandments of the pneumatic bible, it offers “unique cuisine, justifies the trip!”.
Lera, in the pools of all the gurus... but not of the 'rouge'
Terrestrial: If it is our fault, that we hope that someone who has made it clear to us, from day one, that he had no intention of changing, will change; we fell in love with her because she was true to its values and now we are angry because she doesn't want to dance the chá chá chá with us Let's see if we are going to be a bit like Brenda Walsh (or Valle, who catches us closer) of this party of everything red.
Criticism of the Michelin Guide has always arisen because of its traditional vision of gastronomy and its criteria, a little anchored in that tablecloth fine dining, tasting menu and wine pairing because yes —so we bang our heads against the wall for ignoring those houses but it's their party and they're in charge at their party.
Moral: And it's okay, mind you, there are already guides like Condé Nast Traveler's - and excuse the shameless sweep home - to raise different criteria of excellence . We continue: great second star to three great Andalusians that they do not come to compensate for the closure of Dani García, of that nothing, because they deserve the gallon for themselves and here that each stick holds its apron. what a trio: Paco Morales (Noor), Benito Gómez (Bardal) and Marcos Granda (Skina).
Also deserved for ** El Poblet , in Valencia **, and pending we have to analyze ** Angle **, in Barcelona, a surprise for many under the seal of television jordi cruz . The leak of ** Gofio in Madrid ** was chronicle of a star heralded and applauded , because these canaries have plenty of talent for which many did not give a penny in their beginnings. Hey.
cool what 99 K.O. Sushi Bar has been the trigger -what we like a brilliance and a ceremony, Michelin- so that David Arauz the star that he so longed for and the Bambú group deserved. Funny, by the way, that in the Bib Gourmand -sometimes we have more fun with the BGs than the glittery ones , we confess it, but do not leave here- they have sneaked Roo Canteen , The Antonelli Fool's Tavern and the mythical Bolivar , three cool guys from Madrid to hit and dodge unlucky bubbles and fashion openings. id
aurt
Terrestrial: Go also to ** Tula in Xàbia **, by Borja Susilla and Clara Puig; a beautiful story of love and gastronomy that falls in love with everyone. Very happy for the first (finally!) to Begona Rodrigo , the confirmation of the talent of Álvaro Salazar in the VORO by Park Hyatt Mallorca and Artur Martinez in aurt (Barcelona) ; receipt of Mantua in Jerez and that Bib Gourmand that looks like a joke from the Guide for the ** Baret de Miquel Ruiz ** in Dénia, 'the chef who passed from the stars' and also the table with the longest waiting list in Spain. Life is very rare.
Moral: That said, and after I applaud Portugal for those five new stars , with the bistar House of Chá da Boa Nova to the front, Jesus, close up, I'm confused and now it's time to toast a lot and loudly with Amaya Arzuaga for the star of her workshop, led by Víctor Gutiérrez. And it is that wherever Amaya goes, she triumphs, be it Milan, Paris or the Ribera del Duero. Reinvent yourself or nanay. Matter that the Michelin Guide should not throw on deaf ears, at least in this Iberian Peninsula, carpetovetónica, warlike and aware that there is a lot of tablecloth worth going off the roundabout at the next bend . And many others... not so much.
Terrestrial: I do not close. Let the Stars close.
THREE STARS
- The gazebo of Amós (Villaverde de Pontones, Cantabria)
TWO STARS
-Noor, Cordoba
- Bardal, Ronda
-Skina, Marbella
- El Poblet, Valencia
-Angle, Barcelona
Noor, we are what we eat
A STAR
- La Aquarela, Arguineguín (Gran Canaria)
- Aürt, Barcelona
- Five Sentits, Barcelona
- Ola Martin Berasategui, Bilbao
- Voro, Canyamel (Majorca)
- Magoga, Cartagena (Murcia)
- The Library (Iruña, Pamplona)
- Lady Juana, Jaen
- Mantua, Jerez de la Frontera
The Library, Iruna
- 99 K.O. Sushi Bar, Madrid
- Gofio by Cicero Canary, Madrid
- Los Guayres, Mogán (Gran Canaria)
- Workshop, Quintanilla de Onesimo (Castilla y León)
- Es Tragón, Sant Antoni de Portmany (Ibiza)
- Delirious, Salou
- Ivan Sardinian, Toledo
- Retama, Torrenueva (Castilla-La Mancha)
- The Salita, Valencia
- Tula, Xàbia