Viterbo, after the most charming places in this Italian province
Despite the fact that its capital, Rome, is the most visited city in the entire Italian boot, travelers do not pay special attention to the rest of the enclaves that are located throughout the rest of the region. Beyond the eclectic and wildly beautiful Eternal City, a total of five provinces make up the latium region (Lazio in Spanish): Rome, Latina, Rieti, Frosinone and Viterbo.
It is in this last one that we will put all our effort and desire to discover the most charming places in this province located in the north of the region that we always overlook, if we travel from Rome, in our eagerness to go to the bucolic Tuscany or to historic Umbria. But this time, it's time to stop, take a deep breath and dedicate a few days of our vacation to this destination without which the origin of Italy and of course the entire Roman Empire cannot be understood.
Their hills, medieval villages, castles, history, landscapes, delicious cuisine and the locals that you meet along the way will catch you completely and you will begin to appreciate it as it truly is, with all your cozarón. Shall we start with this route of essential stops in the Viterbo region?
Shall we investigate the province of Viterbo?
THE CITY OF VITERBO
The first stop could not be other than the city that bears the same name as the province and that was formerly known as the Roman Tuscia whose origin dates back to Etruscan rule in Italy . This town located an hour and a half by car from Rome, just over 60,000 inhabitants can boast of having some places of interest to lose ourselves over and over again.
The first recommendation once we have stopped at Viterbo is letting ourselves be carried away by the cobbled streets so characteristic of the country that make up one of the best preserved medieval ensembles in this part of central Italy . Once we start our tour, one of the first stops we have to make is the Papi's Palace (Palace of the Popes in Spanish), a place that became for 24 years - specifically from 1257 to 1281 - the residence of the highest representative of the Catholic Church due to the hostility and constant violence that occurred in Rome. During all these years the most famous room of the palace, the conclave room , witnessed the election of five more popes, after Alexander IV, who was the first to decide to make the city his habitual residence. That is why Viterbo is also known as 'The City of the Popes'.
A few steps from this building, we are greeted by the Duomo, also called the Cathedral of San Lorenzo of Romanesque origin and built, according to legend, on an Etruscan temple dedicated to Hercules. We can continue our pleasant passeggiata until we reach Piazza dei Pleibiscito, one of the most frequented. Here stand the Palazzo dei Priori and the Palazzo Comunale. If we want to add a couple more, we can walk a few more steps to the Palazzo Farnese, the Chiesa di San Maria Nuova or the Palazzo degli Alessandri.
It's worth the 20 minute drive or the little over an hour's walk it takes to get to Villa Lante , one of the best-known garden villas dating from the 16th century in all of Italy , not counting the Garden of Bomarzo which we will talk about a few paragraphs below. built by Giacomo Barozzi da Vignola for the cardinal Giovanni Francesco Gambara forms a redoubt of peace and tranquility where you get lost and find yourself again and again in the most absolute calm, only interrupted by the sound of the water from the fountains or the birds located among the extensive vegetation.
When hunger begins to claim your attention, we can return to the historic center to delight us with the true and delicious culinary proposal of the area . known as viterbersa gastronomy , thanks to its geographical position in the center of Italy, a combination of Roman flavors is created together with Tuscan and Umbrian dishes.
Its star dish is found in the aquacotta originally made with homemade durum wheat bread, field vegetables, olive oil and salt . Depending on the area, some ingredients or others are usually added to give the dish greater richness. If we want something fast we can opt for the piadinas of Buongusto Piadineria (Piazza dei Pleibiscito, 17), if we want pasta we will find it optimal in the Osteria Tanta Robba (Via Maria Santissima Liberatrice, 47) and meat in Old Tavern (Via Sant'Agostino, 12).
CIVITA DI BAGNOREGIO, ALSO KNOWN AS 'IL PAESE CHE MUORE'
Leaving the city of Viterbo behind, we head for one of the most spectacular medieval jewels in all of Italy . Not known by many (that's where part of its magic lies), Civita di Bagnoregio It is located just over half an hour by car from Viterbo. Named with the intention of attracting tourism as the country that dies ('the city that dies would be its most literal translation) It was founded by the Etruscans more than 2,500 years ago..
Civita di Bagnoregio
Its singularity is perceived from the first moment in which the sight is deposited on it. A town built on top of a village which can only be accessed by a man-made walkway , which if not taken care of is destined to disappear due to the erosion of the hill and the passage of time. Hence its name as the country that dies . Very few inhabitants live all year round in Civita di Bagnoregio, about 10 according to the latest data.
To encourage the care and upkeep of the burgh , tourists wishing to cross the footbridge to visit the town will have to make a payment of 5 euros , but it is definitely worth it. Strolling through its narrow streets, sleeping in some of the guest houses and waking up feeling the emptiness of the mountain at our feet is one of those experiences that only happen very rarely in our lives. And we should not miss the opportunity to live it.
Once in Civita di Bagnoregio we must bring out the hedonist in us and enjoy the tranquility of such a place. Eat and sleep when we feel like it, read a good book, have a glass of wine at sunset or admiring the views. Here the one known as the dolce far niente Italian is more than guaranteed.
The famous footbridge of Civita di Bagnoregio
But we can also visit the Romanesque church of San Donato, the Puerta de Santa María, chapel of the Virgen del Carcere, the Geological Museum or the Casa Greco . And if ours are the activities whether outdoors or indoors, we can always learn to horseback riding, take an Italian cooking class, go canyoning , savor a wine tasting or go hiking. The accommodation that bears our name is Court of the Maesta , a guest house with five rooms that are different from each other and decorated with impeccable taste and charm. A little piece of our heart will remain in this establishment managed by its founders, Cristiana and Paolo, word!
BOLSENA LAKE AND ITS BEAUTIFUL BISENTINE ISOLA
Italy can boast of having a large number of freshwater aquatic surfaces that translate into a breath of fresh air for both locals and travelers -especially as soon as the high temperatures begin to be present in the interior areas- who see how their days are much more jovial, refreshing and entertaining while soaking in or near the water.
The Lake Bolsena It is one of those enclaves that are reached by chance, but it is worth dedicating a day of our trip to delight ourselves with quality tourism and well-being. Overshadowed by others in the country such as Lago di Garda, Trasimeno or Lago di Como, it is positioned as the seventh largest aquatic area in Italy, draining its waters towards the Tyrrhenian Sea and was formed more than 300,000 years ago, forming a most unusual and attractive volcanic basin.
Court of the Maesta
If you take your own vehicle, it will be much easier to discover the attractions located on the shores of the lake, such as the city of Bolsena with his Basilica of Santa Cristina or the Rocca dei Monaldeschi ; the Montefiascone village and its Rocca dei Papi or the Renaissance church of Saint Margaret ; the fishing town of Marta in the southernmost part of the lake with its small port full of boats on its shores and the Italian commune Capodimonte with the Farnese fortress and its port that takes us to the famous islands of the lake, Isola Bisentina and Isola Martana , being the first the most frequented of the two. According to experts, Isola Bisentina is the place described by the Italian poet Dante Alighieri in the third part ( Paradise ) of his most famous work, The Divine Comedy.
If good weather permits, the lake is the perfect location for lovers of water sports such as sailing, kayaking, windsurfing or sport fishing.
MONSTER PARK IN BOMARZO
Officially named as the Sacred Forest of Bomarzo , is known as the 'park of monsters' due to the peculiarity of the place, which fascinates and terrifies in equal parts from the first moment a skin is deposited in it.
A particular garden of wonders created in the form of a labyrinth with numerous statues of mythological beings and large stone monsters that seem to come to life at any moment. Accompanying these, abrupt vegetation awaits us with the occasional fountain in this forest created more than 500 years ago by the architect and Landscape designer Pirro Ligorio for Prince Pier Francesco Orsini.
Forest of Bomarzo (Italy) : The Park of Monsters
a halo of mystery that encompasses the entire park and that fascinates both adults and children with its giant tortoises, satyrs, dragons, masks, sea monsters, mermaids, animals and other large mythological beings that will make the visit the most fun, mystical part and surprise you with the whole trip. It's time to leave fear behind and discover this fascinating Park of the Monsters of Bomarzo!
CALCATA AND THE TREJA VALLEY REGIONAL PARK
The town of Calcata It is located on top of a volcanic tuff village surrounded by the cliffs of the Treja Valley Regional Park . As is the case with Civita di Bagnoregio , this village was also destined for its disappearance or rather (and according to the Italian government) its collapse. That's what they told the residents of this town located just over an hour's drive from Rome in the 1930s. Most of them left their homes because of the risk of collapse of the area.
But nothing is further from reality, not only Calcata remains intact and standing almost 100 years after that moment but from the 60s a group of people decided to rehabilitate it and today it can boast of having about 1,000 inhabitants and a large annual influx of tourists who come here to discover its magic.
calcata
There are numerous artists, writers, adventurers and bohemians , those who have dropped by here - either passing through or to stay to live - to contribute their grain of sand in this project that makes up Calcata. The motivation of its inhabitants is so great with the intention that the town does not fall into oblivion that a large number of events of any kind are organized annually. cultural nature, whether festivals, exhibitions, conferences or concerts.
A place where art, nature and history merge to offer the traveler a destination of peace and tranquility that is capable of healing even the most stressed soul.
MORE STOPS ON THE ROAD TO VITERBO
The Etruscan Necropolis of Monterozzi in Tarquinia with its more than 6,000 graves included since 2004 in the list of places that make up the World Heritage Site by UNESCO.
The Farnese Palace of Caprarola , also known as the Villa Farnese, was built between 1555 and 1575. This Casa Farnese refuge is inspired by the Renaissance era and perfectly exemplifies how the Italian aristocracy lived at that time.
Approach the small but visited Sutri to soak up Roman history and get lost in the alleys of the town.
What are we waiting for to start discovering this diamond in the rough from central Italy?
Bolsena