Palermo Cathedral
To stay, the mythical Grand Hotel et des Palmes it is one of those 19th century institutions that has housed countless historical personalities (Wagner finished composing Parsifal here, Arthur Miller was a roommate of the gangster Lucky Luciano, and countless etc.) . More central and exclusive, the Palace Count Federico It is a mansion of authentic Sicilian aristocrats converted into hoteliers for the pleasure of the traveler who loves tapestries and damask bedspreads.
DAY 1.
Morning: To suddenly immerse yourself in the Palermo experience **what better than shouting, vegetables and fish in the open air. The Ballarò Market** is one of those noisy places where you can bask in the authenticity and authenticity of Sicily: streets paved over a millennium are lined with vociferous vendors, an overdose of colours, fresh products and faces of those that are only found in the handles of the canes . Nearby, the Church of the Gesù is one of the most refined examples of Sicilian Baroque. Do not be fooled by its simple facade; the interior overflows with sculptures, marbles and portraits.
The Ballarò Market, typical Sicilian authenticity
Strolling through the streets, one reaches the vortex of the city: the Quattro Canti , the intersection of two of the main streets (Via Vittorio Emanuele and Via Maqueda) , which consists of, yes, four corners lavishly decorated with fountains in which tourists are photographed, palermitanos stay, they function as a reference point to get oriented and **divide the historic city into four neighborhoods (Albergheria, Capo, Vucciria and La Kalsa)**. If we look up over the fountains we will find the well-known Spanish kings Carlos I, and his successors Felipe II, III and IV, an example of the time when Sicily depended on the crown of Aragon. The island is a frenzy that allows explaining the contradictions and overlaps of history, from the Normans to the Nazis.
Quattro Canti, where Palermo is divided
very close, the Piazza Pretoria It is a lively enclosure with a large stepped fountain surrounded by naked statues that, at the time of their installation, scandalized the people of Palermo with their marble backsides. Two steps away is one of the most charming churches in this city full of churches, the Martorana , a Norman construction from the 12th century easily recognizable by the three photogenic red domes of the church of San Cataldo, next door. The interior of the Martorana prepares for the apotheosis of the mosaic that will be seen in the Palatine Chapel : the contrast between the sober interiors of the Romanesque churches of the same period, to which we are accustomed, with the Byzantine gilding seen here is overwhelming and fascinating.
Piazza Pretoria
To eat: as the overwhelm and fascination have probably whetted our appetite, we should go to the nearby Antica Focacceria Di San Francesco , a whole local institution that serves focaccias, arancini, sardines, and the ubiquitous cannoli in a relaxed setting . When they set up the terrace, it becomes one of the places to fall in love with the city forever.
Afternoon: If we are on a hot day, we all know that few places are cooler than the interior of a church. Luckily, Palermo has plenty: next to the Focacceria Di San Francesco is, obviously, the Gothic church of San Francesco d'Assisi . Through the Porta Felice you can access the Kalsa neighborhood , where you have to visit the abatellis palace . This is an essential museum that houses the impressive fresco The Triumph of Death in which a skeleton on horseback tramples nobles and ecclesiastics.
The photogenic domes of the church of San Cataldo
This powerful image seduced Wim Wenders, among others, who showed it in his particular tribute to this city in Palermo Shooting . If you are looking cooler, the botanical garden has some photogenic giant trees They assure that they are the oldest in the city. When the sun goes down it's time to tour the somewhat dumpy and full of charm the Kalsa, the old surviving Arab neighborhood to the bombing of World War II.
Diner: by the sea, the Kursaal Kalhesa It is a perfect place with rollaco to dine on imaginative dishes and have a drink in an environment of those old decadent palazzo that we like so much and abound here.
DAY 2
Morning: Already involved in the maelstrom of Palermo, it is time to visit its main attraction: the palace of the normans and its main artistic and historical jewel, the palatine chapel . The palace is a huge enclosure in which the buildings of the Norman kings were the seat of political power and the Spanish viceroys converted into a residence; today it has returned to its original purpose and is the seat of the Sicilian regional assembly. Inside, the Palatine Chapel is a slap in the face with gold and mosaics . Pantocrators, evangelists, angels and archangels watch us from the vaults and the light does the rest.
Nearby Palermo Cathedral is a bit bland on the inside, but on the outside it boasts one of the most spectacular facades in Italy.
The Palatine Chapel: gold and mosaics
To eat: the Trattoria Ai Cascinari It is an essential of Sicilian specialties in which the delicious fish dishes are especially worthwhile.
Afternoon: You have to go to Capuchin Catacombs , further explained here. On the way back, it's time to explore the 19th century area of the city: with its wide avenues, its neoclassical and art nouveau buildings (watch out for the wonderful museum Villa Malfitano ) and its theaters from when it was one of the Italian musical capitals, the Politeama and the Massimo. The latter has excellent programming, but we all know Why We Come To It: To parody Sofia Coppola's death scene at the end of The Godfather III. Operatic drama and an involuntary touch of comedy: all very Sicilian.
Skulls for all tastes
Diner: the Osteria dei Vespri it is perfect for trying the most sophisticated version of traditional Sicilian products and the perfect finishing touch to a visit to the endless city.
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