Procida, Italian cultural capital by 2022
Procida is a tiny speck of land in the Bay of Naples, better known as the island between Ischia and Capri. But at the end of January it was named Cultural Capital of Italy for 2022, beating out nine other candidates - an amalgamation of cities and small towns - and becoming the first island to whom the title is granted.
with less than three square kilometers , the island has gone almost unnoticed for tourism (except in July and August, when many Neapolitans come to spend their summer holidays), overshadowed by its neighbors , better known.
You don't need more reasons to go meet her, and you know it
All this despite his appearances on the big screen -Procida has served as set for The talent of Mr. Ripley and Il Postino- and the fact that it has the same pastel Colored Houses, cafe-lined marinas and narrow streets than their larger counterparts, but also with historic sites, wild nature and almost desert beaches.
The announcement of the Italian Capital of Culture was marked by the bells of the churches and the celebrations of its 10,500 inhabitants. "It was a real proud moment for all of us," he says. Mayor Raimondo Ambrosino. "But we've also felt like recognition that has been a long time coming.
The proposal thanks to which the island has won the prize -and one million euros- includes 44 projects covering art, urban regeneration and sustainability , with the participation of 240 artists and 40 original works.
"We wanted to show that the cultural richness of Italy It is not only found in its big cities, but also in those places considered smaller, even marginal: our islands and borghi", He says Agostino Riitano, director of the project created for Procida's candidacy.
The inhabitants of Procida are delighted with the recognition, although they plan to make sure that the island maintains its humble roots.
Do not try it, resisting its charms is not possible
"Procida has always been, in the first instance, a fishing village He says Tarcisio Ambrosino, owner of Vineria Letteraria L'Isola di Arturo , a wine bar with space for literary events in Corricella , a 17th century port and the oldest fishing village on the island.
"I don't think we will suddenly become a second Ischia or Capri. It is not in our nature."
Marina Caliendo, director of reception San Michele boutique hotel , echoes the same sentiments. "Procida is for a slower type of travel" , she says. "Here there is no ostentation, no designer stores, no luxury spas. The important thing, with this award, is that we worry about keep our traditions.
To that end, both Riitano and Mayor Ambrosino say the calendar of events highlights Procida's history and identity, as well as preserves "a place that follows its own rhythm , being the tranquility one of the main attractions".
HOW TO GET
procida is found 22 kilometers from the coast of Naples. There are daily ferries and seaplanes leaving from two quays in the city, Molo Beverello and Porta di Massa , as well as from Pozzuoli, north of Naples.
Depending on the journey -by hydrofoil, faster, or by ferry, slower- the island is reached within a period of between 40 minutes and one hour. You can also travel from Ischia , from where the hard crossing of 15 to 25 minutes.
La Marina Corricella, the neighborhood to stay in
WHAT TO SEE AND WHAT TO DO
Upon arriving at Big Navy , the main tourist port of Procida, you will see a group of traditional houses along the seafront , each of them painted in bright tones pinks, yellows, oranges, reds and blues , a way for fishermen to identify them from their boats.
Via Roma, the main street of Procida, which is just around the corner from the port, is a good place to eat, especially at La Medusa, which has been conquering palates since 1954.
Before continuing on your way, have an espresso at the bar rome and accompany it with a lingua di suocera ("mother-in-law's tongue"), the traditional puff pastry of Procida, lemon cream filling.
The Church of Santa Maria della Pieta, an 18th-century church with an iconic Baroque bell tower, and the lemon-yellow church of Santa Maria delle Grazie, built in 1679, are also nearby and worth a visit.
From there, there a 15-minute walk uphill (and then downhill) until Marina Correcella, the oldest fishing village in Procida.
Palace of Avalos
This area, to which can only be reached on foot or by boat , is one of the best places to stay to enjoy the calm life of the island, as well as being full of restaurants -Caracale, La Lampara, Il Pescatore, to name a few- ice cream shops like Chiaro di Luna and bars.
At the opposite end of the island, Marina Chiaiolella is another fishing village with excellent restaurants (try Da Mariano and Lido Vivara), craft shops and old-school bakeries, not to mention access to one of the most popular beaches on the island, the Spiaggia della Chiaiolella, famous for its sunsets.
Terra Murata, the medieval fortress which is located at the highest and northern end of the island, is another highlight. Saying jumble of alleys and dilapidated houses It is the most historic enclave of Prócida.
There are the Abbazia San Michele Arcangelo , which honors the patron saint of Procida, and the Palazzo D'Avalos , a 16th-century palace that was the former residence of the ruling family of the island. In 1830 the building became a prison that ended up closing in 1988.
Here there is two viewpoints that offer inspiring panoramic views of the island: to the west, Corricella in all its splendor; and the Gulf of Naples, with Capri in the distance to the east.
Spiaggia della Chiaiolella
BEACHES AND NATURE
Among the most picturesque beaches of Procida are Pozzo Vecchio , whose black sands they became famous thanks to the film Il Postino; Spiaggia Chiaia, to the east, that dominates Ischia and boasts clear waters and shallow and a backdrop of rocky cliffs (plus the excellent La Conchiglia seafood restaurant); and Ciraccio, the longest and most isolated.
Further down, the Spiaggia della Chiaiolella is another jewel, although a little more frequented, especially in the late afternoon, when its stabilimenti (beach clubs with rows of sun loungers and umbrellas) They start offering appetizers.
Also not to be missed Isola di Vivara, a protected nature reserve which occupies a tiny crescent-shaped islet and it is linked to Procida by a long bridge. privately owned, but open to visitors a couple of times a week , is a sample of the rich natural beauty of the island.
WHERE TO SLEEP
The hotel San Michele, in Corricella , has 12 rooms with minimalist design and decoration (with fine taste) in earth tones. A similar aesthetic is found at its sister property La Suite, an elegant accommodation, close to Ciraccio , which has a swimming pool, garden and impressive views.
In Chiaiolella, the three-star Hotel Ristorante Crescenzo is a popular choice not only for its simple, brightly colored rooms, but for its his pizzeria, one of the most visited in Procida.
Secondly, La Vigna, situated in a beautifully restored farmhouse , within a vineyard overlooking the Bay of Naples, offers charm and tranquility.
Article originally published in Condé Nast Traveler USA