Restaurant of the week: Fismuler Barcelona
There is a semibass in Madrid where while you spread one sinful butter on a fluffy slice of bread you can entertain yourself watching people's legs as you pass by: high heels, flying sneakers, polished moccasins...
One of those was you, just before going down some stairs that take you to Fismuler, a space between New Yorker and Nordic where you know in advance that you are going to eat very well and you are going to have a great time.
It is a scenographic place and a follower of the philosophy “the chipping is beautiful” , with a lot of exposed brickwork, proud cable and tables for welcome strangers, which is home to one of the most successful restaurants opened in Madrid in recent years.
The food is in keeping with the decoration: haute cuisine disguised as simple and unpretentious, always wrapped in a cosmopolitan atmosphere but at the same time very, very Madrilenian and at a very attractive price.
A curious and very successful combination that has not left its creators, Nino Redruello and Patxi Zumarraga (from Grupo La Ancha), more options than possible since they opened and you had to stand in line for at least a week if you wanted to make a reservation.
Two years later and 215 kilometers northeast of the parent company, ** Fismuler has opened its first sequel in Barcelona**, bringing that same kitchen, and a bit of Madrid along the way, on the ground floor of the REC hotel in the Borne neighbourhood.
Although, with a common DNA -same nudity on floors and walls, same tables, same hangers hung on bars to leave coats as in your home, same decoration facing north , open kitchen and super professional and very friendly waiters–, the Catalan is molding his own personality with the filming and defining the features of him that differentiate him from his brother.
to get started it is infinitely brighter , completely surrounded by a window that during the day becomes a showcase , where in this case it is the passers-by who take advantage of what is going on inside to take a look while they put on the dress or check if they have turned out as handsome as they thought.
Same style but much more light
Behind him is the same pair of two: Nino and Patxi; patxi and nino , which in this case have allied with Jaime Santianes. Three former Bullies (which is said soon), which control the Barcelona letter to the millimeter from the headquarters of Sagasta (Madrid), replicating Madrid dishes but taking advantage of the local pantry, Mediterranean included, and with a team, room and kitchen, that perfectly understands the philosophy of the place.
As in the capital, the offer changes every sun with what the market brings, and although there are some immutable, others, like its famous nettle omelette , is adapting and customizing with the season (now with some delicious prawns ), which allows you to go over and over dressed brand new.
Sausage meatballs in Fismuler
The ritual, here too, begins with that same absolutely treacherous buttered bread and one thin slice of brisket , courtesy of the house, which is accompanied by the daily menu on a sheet of paper (very much like the house of meals that it is).
Among the essentials (to this day), are the semi-cured sea bream with almond and grape , the boneless wings with yolk, sweet potato and truffle (you've never tried wings like this) , the aforementioned omelette, a very juicy half-moon from which the prawn tails peek out from the egg foam; and the long-eared Viennese escalope, which end in a table sprinkled with truffles and (with Germanic dimensions) .
As in the Madrid restaurant, here not not ordering dessert is not an option. For one, to share, to take away... the cheesecake (a trilogy of fresh, cured and blue) has no competitor. You always have to ask for it option A, and then if there are B, C and D, choose another/s (especially so that the rest are distracted while you attack), paying special attention to seasonal suggestions.
Despite its daytime air, with that huge window that sucks in the Mediterranean light, the nights have a special charm. Especially when it's time for the live music and the first start dancing (which costs a little more here than in Madrid).
Once the deck is broken, the party is considered inaugurated, always accompanied by their glasses, with the liquors that they macerate themselves (gin with juniper, apple and lime, strawberries…; vodka with allspice; rum with vanilla; whiskey with toasted almonds…) in the big boats in sight or the jugs (rebujito, Tinto de Verano, cider and ginger…) .
The waiting lists are also replicated, and for dinner Friday and Saturday too here you have to book at least a week . It pays to be foresight.
Where magic happens!
Address: Rec Comtal, 17 See map
Telephone: 935 140 050
Schedule: Open Monday to Sunday, from 1:30 p.m. to 3:30 p.m. Dinners, from Sunday to Wednesday, from 7:30 p.m. to 11:30 p.m., and from Thursday to Saturday, from 8:30 p.m. to 12:30 a.m.
Half price: €40