Tradition sits at the table again
Everything indicates that the bombshell of the gastronomic markets begins to deflate.
The waters have calmed down, the rush to communicate that the most “rogue” cuisine is found next to the “lifelong fruit and vegetable stalls” as the perfect marketing strategy has faded and we return, fortunately, to the origin of all this: the quality gastronomic enterprise that finds a home in the food markets to be profitable and feed well. No more no less.
Madrid's ** Mercado de Torrijos ** has had ** Tres por Cuatro , a traditional cuisine restaurant ** for a few months now, which has recharged hope for the sometimes hackneyed fusion gastronomy that floods menus and culinary concepts.
Traditional cuisine and young entrepreneurs
However, what most dazzles about their adventure is that they are an example of entrepreneurship by young chefs who only seek to cook what they like and makes them happy.
“The only place that gave us a feasible and viable opportunity was this market. I have no one to back me up, I opened this with one hand in front and one behind. Everything, absolutely everything, we did... I still remember the days I spent in the market assembling Ikea furniture myself! With such big hands that I am!", Alejandro Marugán, chef and owner of Tres por Cuatro, told Traveler.es.
Ikea furniture you will say? Well yes, indeed. Everything here is simple and modest, but done with care, set up with enthusiasm and honesty. Which makes food the only thing that matters.
“When we set up the premises we thought a lot about the concept we wanted and in the end We reduced it to what we like to eat regularly, of which we never get tired, out of fads and trends current. We like the flavor of the bottom, the usual stew, the chup chup" Marugan explains.
"In our 2 m2 kitchen (with only two burners, a griddle and a fryer) not a single pot or pre-cooked food fits, we do everything ourselves from scratch and with natural ingredients” , he underlines.
Green spring stew
Its current spring menu triumphs thanks to a green stew with free range yolk and the ray and sobrassada rossejat. "People scrape it clean until the plate is clean!" Exclaim those responsible for the restaurant's kitchen in astonishment.
His tripe and cheesecake - elaborated by Marugán's mother-in-law, Clara Villalón's mother, another fundamental pillar of the team who is also in charge of local communication– They will be present throughout the year.
Gone are other hits like Monkfish and shrimp suquet, ossobuco taco a la pibil or wheat in paella…
The project started with just Jesus Encinas and Alejandro . Despite having been open for so little time, they have had to expand the team with Santiago Estremadoyro ( Bar /M ) and Janet , "That she started working at home and in the end she gets us out of all the trouble at Tres Por Cuatro, both to clean and to produce, cook or serve".
Meanwhile, the room is the territory of Jenny San Jose , who is making her debut in the world of hospitality, "but she is a born worker who has caught everything very quickly and has super good treatment with the client”.
The question that invades us is whether, after having tried my luck and having succeeded, being on everyone's lips and filling tables day in and day out , they want to move to their own premises.
“Right now the only thing I can think about is getting the best possible services for the enjoyment of the client with the very few means we have. Being an entrepreneur is exhausting! Now it's not just cooking, but managing suppliers, staff, reservations and a thousand other things," they say.
"Even so, the dream of owning a place on the street is always there , but for now we have to thank all the customers who fill our tables on a daily basis despite being where we are”, they clarify.
Be that as it may and wherever you are, As long as they keep promising and fulfilling the chup chup , victory is assured.
Alex and Jesus
Update April 5, 2020: As of March 2020, the restaurant closed its stall in the Mercado de Torrijos to open its own premises on Calle Montesa, 9.
Address: Torrijos Market. General Diaz Porlier, 82 See map
Telephone: 687 268 432
Schedule: Sunday and Monday closed. Tuesday from 1:30 p.m. to 4 p.m. Wednesday to Saturday from 1:30 p.m. to 4:00 p.m. and from 8:30 p.m. to 11:00 p.m.
Half price: €25-30