The Ampurdá Motel: the myth of the hare to the royal and much more
To my knowledge, none of the places I pick here have any stars, but for me they all justify, not deviating from the route, but a complete excursion. They are unique places, with the charm of authenticity whose only presumption is to offer an excellent product made in the best way... almost nothing, come on!
** The El Labrador-Lera inn, cathedral of the marinade **
In the land of fields, in the midst of that existential nothingness that are the Castilian cereal plains, stands this unexpected surprise. A rough and ugly inn, whose aesthetics are forgotten when trying the marinades Masterfully prepared by Luis Alberto Lera, whose curriculum includes apprenticeship periods with Juan Mari Arzak, Hilario Arbelaitz, Abraham García and Sergi Arola. It interprets Castilian culinary traditions in a contemporary key and turns popular recipes into refined dishes.
In season, it stocks up on the best game: red partridges, pigeons, rabbits and hares that pickle with a little vinegar , because according to himself, the better the vinegar, the worse the marinade comes out. He also does not forget fish such as horse mackerel, sardines or bonito, which, when carefully subjected to acetic acid, turn out to be superb.
Doctor Corral, 27. Castro Verde de Campos. Zamora. 980 66 46 00. Average price: €35 and €50
Mesón El Labrador-Lera, cathedral of the marinade
** Gueyumar, the spell of the embers and the fish**
In these times of technical and precise cooking, it is surprising to see how the simplicity of grilling can be exceptional. Nothing but fire and exceptional product. oh! And yes: the expertise of a professional like Abel Álvarez, observer and iconoclast, who guided by his instinct ( "I don't use thermometers or watches, I look at the fish and it talks to me" ) handles the grill and the griddle with equal skill, both on oak embers whose combustion is more humid.
The most impressive thing of all is that he does not roast the whole fish, but he chops up the magnificent pieces that arrive every morning and recomposes them after roasting them on a tray. Amazing. For 15 minutes he struggles with tweezers, grids and wires that goes up and down, moves and moves, to turn a mackerel full of fat or a contest viceroy into a creamy piece, with crispy skin and very white meat with an aftertaste of smoke . Without garlic or refried food, the fish arrives virgin at the table, without further ado, why? A feast!
Place of Vega Ciego, 4. Vega (Ribadesella) Asturias. 985 86 08 63. Average price: 35-50 euros.
** Pirula, the best muffin in Andalusia... and with colored butter**
Having breakfast at the Pirula bar is a tradition and also a great pleasure. There they dispatch the best muffins in Andalusia , which are not those of Antequera but those of Écija, specifically those of the “La conchi” bakery or those of the “Armesto” bakery. These white rolls, typical in Andalusia, heavy but foamy and soft, with a very light crumb , have been imitated ad nauseam and it is now practically impossible to find the authentic ones, those that are made with the so-called mass of water, which must be poured so lightly with a ladle on the oven trays.
In the Pirula they are roasted whole, without splitting in half, and they are spread with extra virgin olive oil, with puchero butter, zurrapa or colored butter ... The apotheosis! The temperature that the bread acquires, the crunchy texture and the quality of the ingredients with which it is accompanied (Iberian ham, loin, etc.) make it a delicious snack , which creates addiction. Fifth essence of Andalusian breakfast. Those who want to do the experiment at home can order them online here and the matter is resolved.
Miguel de Cervantes Avenue, 50. Ecija. 954 83 03 00
** The Ampurdá Motel: the myth of the royal hare**
There are dishes that never die. The royal hare is one of them, a monument of classic French cuisine that has survived fashions and trends and is still valid despite the passage of time. Its preparation lasts a minimum of seven hours . Large hares are required, which must undergo careful treatment. In the end the hare arrives at the boneless table, wrapped in a dark sauce of violent and complex perfumes. As the only accompaniment some soufflé potatoes.
The ritual of its tasting was described by the master Néstor Lujan and is already a legend: “When the writer Colette turned 80, the chef Raymond Oliver invited her to the Gran Vefour de Paris together with the gastronome Curnosky. Colette liked hare “à la royale” and the dish presided over the anniversary dinner. As a red Bordeaux and a white Sauternes had been used for its preparation, they were served an old Haut Brion and a no less exquisite Sauternes, from which they drank alternative drinks while tasting the dish with a silver spoon”. Succulent Jaime Subirós cuisine in the mythical Ampurdan according to the recipe inherited from his father-in-law, the great Joseph Mercader.
_(Avda Salvador Dalí i Domènech,170. Figueras (Gerona). 972 50 05 62. Average price: 35 euros) _