La Cosmopolita, the malagueña that everyone likes
To many it may seem that Daniel Ram he is almost a newcomer who opened a few years ago The Cosmopolitan , in its beginnings, a modest tapas bar more or less conventional that posed some ambitious dish out of letter . I still remember the first time they took me to taste their salad and a great one Fabada; from that visit to the festival what it means to visit this house today, half an abyss.
But let's rewind to understand why this humble tavern has become **the most interesting kitchen in Malaga . It turns out that Dani Carnero is not an upstart; he was the architect, in his time, of the most celebrated restaurant in the city, Mount Sancha , and he had to emigrate, like many others, when things didn't work out. And along the way, he worked in the kitchens of ** Martín Berasategui, of The Bulli, with Adriá or The jail , with the great Manolo de la Osa. Now we can begin to understand the dimension of this eating house.
Because in The Cosmopolitan he cooks a lot . The menu, beyond the classic tapas, changes daily. Here the seasons rule but, above all, rule instinct . Dani Carnero cooks, like Sacha, Luis or Hilario, and he does it from deep respect for your craft and from the knowledge of the classical without giving up innovate on his plates.
The result is a kitchen instinctive, direct and emotional , which leaves little room for aesthetics or adornment and where they stand out the product and the taste.
This is how we can see it in dishes that have already become classics, such as white prawn tartare with marrow , the Bordeaux-style squid, the spinach asparagus or the ineffable royal de hare in the style of Senator Couteaux. It's the whole kitchen.
The traditional is reviewed -raw squid with black butter, yes-, it takes risks -brains with oysters, twice yes-, soups are served without complexes -glory to guinea fowl broth with noodles, egg yolk and truffle and viña AB trotters soup with eels-, vegetables and baby birds are stewed. It is a feast of the stoves.
Let's add one restless cellar that every time you drink better and an extraordinary room equipment every day more professional and measured.
Carnero is one of those few cook of cooks who pack their bar and half a dozen tables on their days off. Professional colleagues in search of the lost stew and the missed pot. Of that soul that he lost along the way in a plastic bag at 56º.