Piazza San Domenico Maggiore
WHERE TO SLEEP
** Hotel Metro 900 ** _(Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 6) _
A boutique hotel inside **one of the most beautiful train stations in Italy**. The fantastic location allows you to reach the most emblematic places of the city. Spacious rooms tastefully decorated and extraordinarily friendly service. Breakfast, always included in the price, with fresh organic products.
** Decumani Hotel de Charme ** _(Via San Giovanni maggiore Pignatelli, 15) _
In the historic center of Naples , in the midst of the hustle and bustle of one of the noisiest cities in the world, is this haven of peace, the former home of the last bishop of the Bourbon kingdom. You can have breakfast in a 17th century hall adorned with stucco and large mirrors, a luxury!
A boutique hotel inside one of the most beautiful train stations in Italy
WHERE TO EAT
Pizzaria La Notizia _(Via Michelangelo da Caravaggio, 53) _
From the pizza of Enzo Coccia, owner and chef of La Notizia, Ferrán Adriá said it was "haute cuisine" , as well as that of Joel Robuchon . The best and most varied ingredients: San Marzano tomatoes, Cantabrian anchovies, smoked cheeses, escarole... to make some pizzas that have already created a school.
Do not go on Mondays, it is closed and you will not have the same luck as a couple of Americans who went while Enzo attended us by appointment for this report. He was so kind that he gave them a pizza made to order And judging by their faces, it tasted like heaven!
50kalo _(Piazza Sannazaro, 201/B) _
The name is an expression that, in the jargon of the pizzaiolos, means "good dough", and that is one of the keys to Ciro Salvo's pizza . He himself explained to us why his pizzas are so easy to digest and light.
His secret is the hydration of the dough, adding as much water to the quality flour as the production process allows, and then a slow fermentation. One of his specialties: fried pizza.
It is one of the few pizzerias that also open at noon, but be careful, they do not reserve and it is advisable to go early if you want to avoid the queues. The wait is worth it.
Calzone di scarola in La Notizia
Tandem _(Via Paladino Giovanni) _
Small restaurant in the historic center where the only dish they offer is the typical neapolitan ragu . It has the deserved reputation of being the best in town. You can order it with pasta or simply with bread to do what they call scarpetta , that is, dip the bread in the sauce... and scrape it off!
Don't expect great luxuries, the place is modest but the ragu, said by Neapolitans, is like the one made by mamma on Sundays.
Dialetti _(Vico Satriano, 10) _
Cozy place in the trendy area of naples . You can see what is cooking in the kitchen and taste only natural wines. The offer is varied but we recommend the Thursday dinners, with live music and tapas menu.
Fishery Mattiucci _(Vico Belledonne in Chiaia, 27) _
A place with the charm of the authentic. During business hours it is fish shop , but after closing it becomes an unassuming restaurant where you can taste succulent fish dishes marinated with citrus and accompanied by exotic fruits.
The brothers run it Gennaro and Luigi Mattiucci , true lovers of their city, to which they have returned after being its ambassadors around the world. it's possible lunch, dinner or an aperitif , a very Italian custom that, although born in Turin , also lives in the south.
The delicious pasta with ragu from the Tandem restaurant
mangiafoglia _(Via Giosuè Carducci, 32) _
This is how the Neapolitans were called before the 18th century, who with the appearance of pasta became mangiamaccheroni . A restaurant that advocates market kitchen and in which they send vegetables and fish.
Desserts are homemade and delicious. Stefano, the owner, is in love with Neapolitan culinary history and, if you agree with him, he will tell you about it. Be sure to order the artichokes with truffle and egg!
**Home Eating**
If you want something different, Caroline and Marcella they organize dinners with live music in baroque halls, in the gardens of luxurious villas or in artists' studios. A unique experience in places for all tastes with a common denominator: the hosts will make you feel at home.
Paintauro _(Via Toledo, 275) _
In one of the liveliest streets of the city, this pastry shop has been located since the year 1785 . His specialty is the typical Neapolitan sweet, the sfogliatella . They say they make the best in the world here. the dilemma will be if you prefer frolla or riccia.
Only the shape varies, the first more rounded and with the softest dough and the second triangular and with the crunchiest dough. In both cases the filling is the same: a cream made with ricotta. When you try it you will understand why it is a truly mythical sweet.
The Keller Dinner, Home Eating
Leisure Italy
If you like cooking and when you travel you miss it, put yourself in the hands of Vincent and Federica. They, in addition to many other very appetizing plans, organize cooking classes to prepare typical Neapolitan dishes.
The tour includes a walk through the market where all the necessary ingredients are bought, the recipe preparation class and lunch or dinner in a family atmosphere and, like everything in Naples, very authentic.
WHERE TO BUY
Pignasecca Market
On the street with the same name. You will not only find food, although if you want to take a souvenir from Naples, there are entire stalls with pasta in every conceivable way and at more than affordable prices.
Neapolitan casserole _(Via S. Biagio dei Librai, 3) _
There is a typical Neapolitan specialty of appetizers, the taralli . Historically they were made with the dough left over by bakers when they baked bread . Instead of throwing it away, they added butter and pepper and they did kind of little donuts.
Currently there are sweet, salty, cold, hot taralli and with all kinds of ingredients. The most famous are those of Leopoldo Infante, who has opened a place in the heart of Naples where you can taste them on the spot or buy them to take home , as emigrants traditionally did, in a package worthy of the best gift for those who the first thing they ask you when they return is what you brought them.
Fruits and vegetables at the Pignasecca market
Nativity figures _(Via San Gregorio Armeno) _
In this street you will find countless shops dedicated to Neapolitan crib art.
Marinella _(Riviera di Chiaia) _
Next to Plaza Vittoria is the store of the most famous ties in the world. They invented the concept of the custom tie and have adorned the necks of characters such as Onassis, Agnelli or Visconti. Although that is their specialty, they also make women's silk scarves and some leather accessories as well as perfumes.
HOW TO MOVE
Naples is a city to discover walking. However, sometimes the distances are long and you will save time if you use the metro or the funicular to go to the higher neighborhoods.
There is one metro line, another light rail line and four funicular lines. Even if you are not going to use it, do not miss some of the stations, as they are true works of art. the of Toledo , designed by Oscar Tusquets , It is considered the most beautiful underground station in the world.
If at any time you need a taxi, keep in mind that, although things are improving, there are still drivers who will try to overcharge you or take you to your destination by the longest way.
And get lost walking through the streets of Naples...
For some routes, such as the airport, there are fixed rates that include all extras. Warn the person on duty that you know this and that you are not going to pay more before the race begins.
Renting a car is also an option if you want to make excursions in the surroundings. But watch out for the chaotic traffic... Its fame precedes it and it is only suitable for brave and intrepid drivers.
HOW TO GET
** Iberia Express ** _(From €49) _
As they say... "the journey begins when you fly, not when you arrive at the destination". It is worth following the website closely. the most punctual low cost airline in the world , since its promotions range from 2 for 1 in Business class to special launch prices in seasonal destinations such as palermo .
_*This report was published in **number 121 of Condé Nast Traveler Magazine (October)**. Subscribe to the printed edition (11 printed issues and a digital version for €24.75, by calling 902 53 55 57 or from our website). The October issue of Condé Nast Traveler is available in its digital version to enjoy on your preferred device. _