Mauritius Island: adrenaline in paradise
hearing the word Mauricio Images very similar to those that arouse me always came to mind Maldives, Seychelles or Zanzibar : a tiny umbrella that helps keep the mojito ice from melting, a relaxed couple reading a book on a Balinese bed and a white sand beach and palm trees along with the shades turquoise and blue of the infinite Indian Ocean.
To complete the typical image of relaxation that the stressed-out European worker often dreams of, all that is missing is dolphins jumping on the horizon with the sunset in the background . And it is precisely this idyllic setting that attracts thousands of newlyweds and couples every year. Instead of spending a romantic honeymoon, I'm heading to Mauritius in search of activity, adventure and adrenaline . An adrenaline rush that comes sooner than expected: due to construction work in the narrow streets of central Madrid and a taxi driver who accepts my haste as his challenge for the day, I find myself in the back of a taxi running at more than 150 kilometers hour to the airport. I arrive just right, they check in my suitcase and they indicate the boarding gate.
I almost missed all those idyllic images, but thanks to the taxi driver, Victor, and the friendly check-in clerks, I arrived on time to catch my flight to Dubai. “Oh, you are going to Mauritius... I hope you take a lot of money, everything is very expensive there ”, the stewardess tells me when she sees the final destination on my boarding passes. In this way she confirms to me one of the facts that I found out during the preparation of the trip: Mauritius does not opt for mass tourism, but concentrates solely on the top class travelers . Already on board, the wide range of entertainment rewards me with a large number of films; I choose two in French to familiarize myself with the one that, next to the english and creole , is one of the official languages in the Republic of Mauritius.
Views of southern Mauritius from Charamel
We landed at ten in the morning local time and, when we got off the plane, we breathed fresh and warm air (when I left Madrid the thermometer showed five degrees). Mauritius airport surprises me: it is much more modern and spacious than one would expect on a tropical island. And they confirm that the Ministry of Tourism aspires to increase the number of visitors: from the 900,000 who arrived last year to two million. For this they inaugurated the new airport in September 2013.
We headed to the southwest of the island, the part wilder and less populated . If I had to imagine a perfect hotel to relax or spend an unforgettable honeymoon, this representation would be very close to what is the Beachcomber Dinarobin Hotel Golf & Spa, on the peninsula of Le Morne Brabant . Thanks to the extension of the land and the distance between the little houses that line up between the mountain and the very white beach, you always have the feeling that the hotel is almost empty even if it is high season.
The cabins are on two floors, my suite (765) occupies the upper part of one of the ones that are attached to the beach. I sit on the sofa on the terrace, open the welcome bottle of champagne and look at the empty beach, the calm sea and the spectacle of colors that celebrate the sun and the waters of the Indian Ocean as both seem to melt into the horizon. It is just then that I have to make what will definitely prove to be the most difficult decision during my stay in Mauritius: golf cart or stroll along the beach for dinner? That these types of decisions are the most "relevant" is what really makes you disconnect.
Beachcomber Dinarobin Hotel
In principle, I am not in favor of the idea of spending half a day inside a plane and then not exploring the destination and staying inside the hotel. But an ultra-comfortable cabin confirms my suspicion that this enclave of tranquility may be too comfortable to want to leave . “Most of our clients stay between seven and ten nights . Most of them spend almost all their time inside the hotel or in the water and usually go out only once to go on an excursion, which normally consists of an activity in the morning and a visit to port louis in the afternoon”, he explains Stuart, the general manager of the hotel, in perfect Spanish. Of Argentine origin and father from Malaga, it is difficult to identify his accent. And the fact that I've been living outside these countries for many years doesn't help either.
“Condoms and tampons can save your life in nature. If you injure your head, they will serve to stop the bleeding and prevent infections”, explains Krish, my guide, while we hang on the edge of a waterfall more than 40 meters high. An explanation of first aid tools and procedures in the wild that makes the change from the honeymoon environment to the adventurous world be a bit drastic. Now we really have left behind the romantic honeymoons. France, the United States, New Zealand... what may seem to be the trajectory of an outstanding diplomatic career is, in reality, the list of places where the bilingual Mauritian Krish has studied his emergency medicine training courses in the open air . I seem to be in the best possible company in this untamed environment.
Reaching the end of the zip line is rewarded with a waterfall
We arrived at the area of tamarin waterfalls , also known as the Sept Cascades, an impressive narrow valley with seven waterfalls –in fact there are 11, but from the most accessible viewpoint you can only see seven– and several paths of high difficulty. But if you do not want to have to fight against the hostile environment and the force of the water, it is best to choose the direct route, which is much easier and more accessible. If, on the other hand, the rope descent down the cliff formed by the waterfall does not quicken your pulse, do not despair: you can try, in some waterfalls, jump into the water from different heights together with the most daring . I decided to spend the whole day rappelling and hiking in this breathtaking setting.
Back at the hotel, once again I am forced to choose my means of transport. This time I pay attention to my legs, which ask me to rest, and request a golf cart to get me to the restaurant. But at the last minute there is a change of plans: dinner will be today on the beach. With my feet in the sand I watch the soft waves that are about to touch the table . It is then that I decide that my next adventures in paradise must unfold in the water.
One of the Beachcomber Dinarobin Hotel dishes
"It sounds easier than it really is, but don't worry," Yoann, the instructor of paddle surfing . I agree with you. Although the board, compared to a surfboard, is huge, at first I fell several times. But, once I get used to keeping my balance, it turns out to be a fun – if somewhat exhausting – entertainment. And my physical effort is rewarded with spectacular views of the peninsula of Le Morne.
The next morning I wake up with sore muscles I didn't even know existed. And I understand why, lately, it has become the fashion sport and the preferred way of many celebrities to keep fit in California. The phone rings and the receptionist explains that Yoann regretfully had to cancel our outing today due to weather conditions.
What at first sounds like a severe storm warning turns out to be quite the opposite. Yoann is also a kitesurfing instructor and we had arranged to learn how to fly the kite. So I walk out of my suite and I feel these 'adverse weather conditions' which, in this case, translate to 30ºC and a complete absence of clouds in the sky. I definitely think there are worse ways to start the day.
Stand Up Paddle
My alternative schedule takes me away from the beach to climb a few green hills and live another adventure . However, we change the water element for earth, which does not mean keeping your feet on solid ground. So, suddenly, I see myself hooked – with a kind of seat belt and several harnesses – to a metal cable that disappears among the vegetation and whose end I cannot see. I find myself in front of a ravine, at 28 meters high which has the first platform. "Yes, we should remove the bush down there so that the height seems more dangerous," the guide predicts to me as he hooks the last carabiner to the cable. "Three, two, one... Allez!"
I speed through the forest, my shrieks causing the birds to fly out of the trees. My legs wobble in the air until I reach another platform where another guide helps me unhook. Hearing the next “ Allez ”, I already feel safer flying over ravines and I can even enjoy the views over the forest and river . Between platform and platform we take the opportunity to take short walks through the impressive natural environment. During one of them I realize, too late, that I haven't brought bug spray. While the rest of the group seems to be better prepared, I am eaten by mosquitoes next to a natural pool . In total, we launched ourselves from the zip lines of six different platforms, from heights that range between 23 and 42 meters.
Then we return to the starting point, a beautiful garden where we enjoy a traditional lunch. chicken curry creole . The placid place, surrounded by green hills, It is spectacular. So much so that the Mauritian poet Robert Edward Hart dedicated the following words to him: Here I am myself and as I want to be ”.
The sky darkens and suddenly it starts to rain torrentially. Due to volcanic mountains, where the clouds of the sea are retained and discharge producing strong precipitations, the island has several microclimates . It may be raining here with tropical force and, 500 meters away, an inclement sun burns your back. And these are not random examples, but a summary of my personal experience from this very day.
I have to confess that the statement that the only important decision of the day is to choose the means of transport is not entirely true: first you have to decide where to go. The four restaurants of the Dinarobin hotel, plus the four of the neighboring Paradis Hotel & Golf Club (whose facilities can also be used) provide different alternatives.
Port Louis spice market
Today it's time for an Italian buffet and a walk on the beach. The highlight of the night is the Tiramisu . Extraordinary. It's so good that I can't help mentioning it several times throughout the evening. The level of care from staff becomes evident the next day when, returning to the hotel after another grueling hiking day , I expected two of these desserts and a letter from the restaurant apologizing for not being able to offer me more tiramisu the night before. Sitting on my terrace, while I give a good account of one of them, I decide to treat myself to one of those tempting massages that are given in a rustic beach shack.
I choose the treatment awaken your senses ' during which I fall into a deep sleep . With the smell of oils Clarins in the fur and dressed in a white bathrobe and flip flops, I return to my room completely relaxed. What did you say Jules Renard : “ On earth there is no sky, but there are pieces of it ”. It is this mix between physical activity and maximum post-adventure comfort which makes Mauritius an interesting destination for adventurers as well.
I take advantage of the last hours I have left to dedicate myself to the favorite pastime on the island: snorkel in its turquoise waters and lie down without regrets on the beach . The boat takes me to the area before the reef, where the practice of this sport takes place in complete tranquility. The reef serves as natural protection of the island , both against strong tides and against the possible attack of sharks. After an hour in the water, I feel like I have greeted all the world goldfish So I swim back to shore.
Once on solid ground, I sit on the beach to meditate on the question that has brought me here. It is true that I have not spent a single day without leaving the hotel, but after familiarizing myself with all the wonders it offers, I can understand that there customers who prefer to stay inside your facilities for as long as possible . Those who are only looking for intense adventures may discard Mauritius from their list of destinations a priori, but the island is much more than sun, beach and tropical cocktails.
Once on solid ground, I sit on the beach to meditate on the question that has brought me here. It is true that I have not spent a single day without leaving the hotel but, after familiarizing myself with all the wonders it offers, I can understand that there are clients who prefer to stay inside its facilities for as long as possible. Those who are only looking for intense adventures may rule Mauritius off their list of destinations, but the island is much more than sun, beach and tropical cocktails.
Actually, Mauricio offers the perfect combination: you leave the oasis of tranquility and well-being with the aim of developing some physical effort to, shortly after, return to the same place to rest and regenerate body and mind . And all this without forgetting the virtues of an environment that attract the most demanding visitors in the world: a exclusive hotel offer, a hospitable population that achieved international fame thanks to the tolerant and peaceful coexistence of numerous religions , and climatic and natural conditions that strengthen his famous comparison with the sky: "Mauritius was made before the sky and to make the sky they copied Mauritius".
I almost start to feel like just another sun worshipper when a conversation with a fisherman snaps me out of this daydream and catapults me back into reality. He offers me to accompany him on his boat to go deep sea fishing the next day. When I replied that, although I would love to, my trip has come to an end and that this afternoon I have my flight back to Spain, he replies: “ But you're still white, my friend, you can't leave like this ”. Maybe he's right...
* This article is published in the double issue of the Condé Nast Traveler magazine for November number 78. This issue is available in its digital version for iPad in the iTunes AppStore, and in the digital version for PC, Mac, Smartphone and iPad in the Zinio virtual kiosk (on Smartphone devices: Android, PC/Mac, Win8, WebOS, Rim, iPad) . Also, you can find us on Google Play Newsstand.
Trekking along the route of the seven waterfalls