Plaza de la Corredera in Córdoba: everything is perfect
Córdoba is famous for being the city with the most hot girls per square meter in Spain. It is accepted, but it is still an old topic (very old) that a certain Julio Romero de Torres made fashionable back in the 1930s. Indeed, a topic that does not add anything new, with all due respect to his Mosque, to its Jewish quarter, the Cordovan patios, the unbeatable salmorejos, the mythical bull's tails and the 2016 Cultural Capital... –Oh no! Sorry, they gave it to Donosti!–. But don't panic because there is a 'large minority' that bets on transcend the honest flamenquines that populate its bars and to the virtuous notes of the musical pachanga that devastates the city.
The Caliph of the Cordovan Night , Antonio Fernández, who has resisted against all odds the blows of musical-commercial dandruff over the decades, is optimistic. From his pulpit in the Metropolis Hall (open until dawn since 1995) he proclaims that there is life beyond the Córdoba of all life . Endorsed by this voice of experience and by my friends (absolutely reliable sources who have burned the day and night as if there were no tomorrow) we bring you the definitive list of bars, restaurants, lounges, taverns and variants... AND I tell you: Oh friend who takes the AVE to come to the city of the Mosque: get ready, because 48 hours in Córdoba will give you very little!
Get on the car, we're going beyond salmorejo and flamenquín through Córdoba
FROM CANES TO THE SUNSHINE
Spring has already arrived here. In Córdoba sitting on a terrace in the sun in shirt sleeves (as my mother would say) is already a reality. Put your sunglasses in your bag and we'll take the first one to ** El Correo ,** in Plaza de las Tendillas. Here there are only reeds. No chairs, no tables, not even a bar... But since it is located in the main square of the city, it is already an icon.
We continue in the captivating Corredera Square. Here everything is perfect: tables, chairs, sun until very late, interesting people, smoke, tapas... And don't worry, there is salmorejo for everyone. always find a place and it is the perfect place to see all this great minority that wanders through the center during the day. Our favorite terrace is The Father.
We would stay all day, but the route continues towards the Canas Square , just behind the Corredera. We're going to the 4 cats , an interesting little terrace where we can have a frozen beer with some olives. Another charming place in La Judería, with a very lively terrace and a wine list that invites you to abandon the cañeo, is ** El Barón .** The setting, furthermore, in the heart of Plaza de Abades, is worth a visit.
Another mythical square is the Plaza del Potro , also in La Judería. The excuse: have a cap and a beer surrounded by orange trees and tourists at the gates of the ** Julio Romero de Torres Museum **. And since we are in squares and perfect corners to stop along the way and listen to the birds (he who smokes, he smokes; he who drinks, he drinks) the legendary ** Archaeological Museum Square ** (a whole classic of the lovers of the cigarettes of laughter). Its real name is Plaza Jerónimo Páez and, to have a wine on the way, the Cavea, Next to the museum, it offers the possibility, of course, of tasting a Montilla-Moriles and toasting the region.
Abbots Square
BEYOND SALMOREJO AND THE FLAMENQUINES It is true that you will not taste salmorejos like the ones from Cordoba (guaranteed) and that the flamenquines round off the play like no other dish. But Cordoba's avant garde offer is on the rise and the atmosphere that is breathed in these places makes you want to stay and live. Next to the renovated Ribera –Córdoba is finally looking at the river– our favorite is ** La Boca (** San Fernando, 39), a large venue, tastefully designed, great music, creative cuisine and a large patio for special occasions and the concerts that take place practically every weekend. Children welcome and interesting people who know how to have fun. Better impossible.
An option with a retro atmosphere and elaborate cuisine is ** El Astronauta ** (Diario de Córdoba, 18) a few meters from the Plaza de las Tendillas. Reinterpreting classic Cordovan cuisine and bringing it to the contemporary, temperature, next to the Martianly restored Roman Bridge (Acera de Granada, 14). Market cuisine, good vibes but a bit far from the center, Picnic (Avenida Ronda de los Tejares, 16) is also registered as one of the best (especially in meats) .
Hamburger and Japanese hamburger from La Boca
CLASSICS AND NOT SO CLASSICS
Those who want to immerse themselves in the tradition of Cordovan bull tail (the richest on planet earth), ** El Caballo Rojo ** (Cardenal Herrero, 28), a classic among classics, will be a mandatory stop for him. In the heart of the Jewish quarter, its list of illustrious visitors is very long and its dishes boast the best of the land: oils from Baena, wines from the Montilla-Moriles Denomination of Origin, garlic from the Campiña, vegetables from Goat, asparagus from the plain Guadalquivir, Iberian ham from Los Pedroches, almonds, pine nuts, saffron, honey... Andalusian cuisine, in short. Hitting hard and overshadowing it, ** El Choco ** (Composer Serrano Lucena, 14) has become in recent years "that Michelin star restaurant in Córdoba capital". Creative, original, delicious but... not in the center.
Inside the El Choco restaurant
To return to traditional cuisine, to a place with character and tavern tradition next to La Ribera, the emblematic Campos Wineries (The Lineros, 32). A ham that takes away the feeling! Reformed and with a roof terrace that overlooks the Mosque and that at night is magical, ** Casa Pepe de la Judería ** (del Romero, 1). Also in the Jewish quarter, on the same street, ** El Churrasco ** (del Romero, 38) works the best traditional cuisine in a pure-bred Cordovan atmosphere. And competing in authenticity with all of them Matthias House (The Walnut, 16) , known as The Astoria , with some exquisite stews.
The courtyard of the Cellars
Do not miss its terrace that looks at the Mosque
NO CORDOVAN HAT, PLEASE
They are all over the historic center of the city. They are not the tourists. They are the taverns. There are so many that it would be impossible to collect them. There are some with history, with monumental patios, and some that are the headquarters of the latest invention: that of uniting these temples of fine Montilla-Moriles with Flamenco ( between the months of February and April; here, the program ) is the perfect combination. Carrying out a titanic synthesis exercise, we recommend some, next to the Church of San Miguel, such as ** Taberna Góngora ** (Conde de Torres Cabrera, 4) specializing in game meat and famous for its lamb skewers; ** El Pisto Tavern ** (Plaza de San Miguel, 1), a winery with a lot of character and ** La Montillana Tavern ** (San Álvaro, 5) with some flamenquines who raise the dead in a bullfighting atmosphere, which here in the land of the Three Caliphs of bullfighting, it is what it touches.
Interior of El Pisto, a 'mythical' Cordovan
Next to the Plaza del Potro, in the middle of the Jewish quarter, another mythical tavern is the Society of Silversmiths of San Francisco , where he often went, they say, the costumbrist painter Julio Romero de Torres , the person in charge of painting the beautiful woman from Cordoba who is the same one that appears on Carbonell's olive oil bottles. Also with a Cordovan patio, another society of silversmiths, that of Mary Help of Christians is known for prepare cod in hundreds of ways.
Entering the labyrinth of the Jewish quarter through the Puerta de Almodóvar, a few meters from the old wall, the Salinas House Tavern It is what they call a must. Come on, you have to see it. ..Very close to it, the renovated ** Casa Rubio Tavern ** continues to cultivate its good work. Their aubergines with honey, their oxtail and their salmorejo, unbeatable. In addition, its viewing terrace adds points. In one of the streets that is gaining strength in the center, Calle Feria, the ** Rafalete Tavern , ** known for its garlic lettuce and its Moorish skewers, has opened a new place. Very suggestive.
With terrace-viewpoint: essential
LATE NIGHT AND EARLY MORNING... SO YES!
Congratulations. You have decided to go to Córdoba at the best time, spring, before “la caló” arrives . Spending the afternoon here and watching the sun go down next to the Ribera in our favorite bar, ** La Amapola ** (Paseo de la Ribera, 9) is priceless. Rock, indie, good atmosphere, the best DJs, good vibes and a great terrace.
Next to the Town Hall and the Roman columns, there is an unquestionable triumvirate of good vibes for the Great Minority. The first of them is ** Soul ** (Alfonso XIII, 3) with screenings of independent films on the ground floor and good music. The second is the ** Automatic ** (Alfaros, 4) techno-indie and live music from Thursday to Saturday. Essential. And the third in "dispute" the Clandestine (Córdoba Newspaper) with live music, theater and a good atmosphere. Bad music but with spectacular views over the disputed Ribera, the Soho Ribera It is a new terrace with sofas and views where, depending on the day, you are more or less comfortable. The clientele is the most heterogeneous. To have a quiet and comfortable drink in the heart of the Malaga Coffee (Málaga, 3) is one of the few corners in the city for jazz and blues. On Thursdays there is a café-theater. And if you are looking for that place full of posh people from the posh area par excellence of Córdoba, The brilliant, then you will have to visit the **MOMA (** Vial Norte esq. Miguel Gila). Pachanguera design and music for those who like...
And running a thick veil, suddenly we stand at the time when we have to move the skeleton. Gentlemen, here we dance. So let's look for those places (there should be, halos). Above good and evil, with no neighbors to bother and away from the madding crowd of tourists, the Metropolis Room offers live music and regularly schedules concerts in the city. If you want to party, all roads will take you to Metropolis. Many styles fit into your programming. So check it out in advance. With acceptable music according to the day, Warhol (Conde de Robledo 1) is located in the university area. Sometimes they have concerts, photography and painting exhibitions by young creators. But you will always find coffee, cocktails and drinks... For party lovers, the ** Sala Góngora ** (Góngora, 10) promises a spacious cafe-theater with endless cultural programming and numerous groups of 20-somethings.
Welcome to Cordoba night!
WHERE TO SLEEP
In the city there are charming hostels where you can spend the night for a modest price. But among our favorite hotels is the **Hotel Palacio del Bailio,** a charming hotel with a luxurious spa and outdoor pool. Another cheaper option but without losing its charm is the Hotel Balcon de Cordob a with views of the Mosque, suites, terrace and a rear door that leads to the charming Calleja de las Flores. And a third, cheaper option is the Hotel Lola , also in the Jewish quarter, and a common terrace to enjoy the sunset.
And so as not to end up with an aftertaste of excessive pachanga, we will tell you some quotes that bring life to the city:
Patios, Fair, hangovers... May The White Night of Flamenco in June Cordoba Guitar Festival in July Cosmopoetic in September
African Film Festival in October
*You may also be interested...
- Ten reasons to visit Córdoba
- Courtyards from Cordoba: the neighborhood pique made a World Heritage Site
- All items of Rosa Marques
The pool is the turning point