Night falls on Baixa and Alfama
Lisbon constantly reinvents itself and yet it seems more than ever impervious to the passage of time because each change, each alteration that occurs in it is nothing more than to affirm the identity of a people proud of their traditions and customs. 48 hours are not enough to know the city of the seven hills, but let's try . Here are all the safety pins to capture at least a little bit of the essence of Lisbon.
Day one
**8.30- Café A Brasileira ** (rua Garrett) : we start with a Portuguese breakfast in one of the most emblematic cafés in the city, which in its day was very frequented by Fernando Pessoa. Order a 'bica', a short, ultra-concentrated coffee that Lisbon people love . In the meantime, you will share a table with a bronze sculpture of Pessoa himself and you will be able to begin to get accustomed by observing the hectic comings and goings of passers-by.
Take the opportunity to wander around the Lower area , the area of the city that was totally destroyed in the 1755 earthquake and in which 50,000 people died out of a total population of 275,000. Stroll through Praça Luís de Camões, Largo de São Carlos until you reach the Santa Justa Elevator , the work of an architect apprenticed to Gustave Eiffel, which connects the lower part of the city with the Bairro Alto.
10.30- The mythical 'electric' number 28 : Dare to get on this century-old tram to lazily ascend through the hills of the city to its highest point, the popular neighborhood of Graça and be amazed by the skill of the driver dodging obstacles through the intricate alleys.
Make a stop along the way to visit the Sé Cathedral and the Church of Santo Antonio , birthplace of the patron saint of Lisbon, to then be ecstatic in the Santa Luzia viewpoint , with a view of the Tagus River, and the dazzling 16th-century São Vicente de Fora monastery.
12.00- Time to enter Alfama arguably the most photogenic neighborhood in the city (attention, cameras at the ready) with its amalgamation of winding medieval alleyways and pastel-colored buildings. Here the clothes hang on the lines between the buildings , children still play in the street and in the tiny bars the Benfica or Sporting matches are followed with real passion (although it must be said since Ronaldo and Mourinho reigned in R.Madrid, the Portuguese also follow with pride the feats of his compatriots in the Madrid club). Our secret: don't miss the 'Casa de los Bicos' an authentic architectural curiosity whose façade is made of a total of 1,125 diamond-shaped stones.
13.30- Typical Portuguese lunch : grilled sardines accompanied by a Sagres or Super Bock beer (another of the Portuguese prides). You will find many places in Alfama where you can taste them but none like Porta D'Alfama (Rua São João da Praça). Get comfortable on its sunny terrace and, if you are lucky, you will be able to enjoy the spontaneous ones that start singing fado vadio (not professional) to the delight of those present. And, for dessert, you have to have Bolo de Bolacha, nothing dietary but great and perfect for recharging batteries.
A balcony where you can look out over the Sé Cathedral
15.30- After sardines and fado, it's time to go back to work. This time to ascend to Castle of Saint George , built by Romans and Visigoths and later converted into a Moorish residence. A true oasis in the old part of the city.
17.30-18.30- Sold out? We are not surprised. Would you like to relax with a caipirinha while watching the sunset over the river? Wish granted. We suggest the Chapitô (Costa do Castelo, no. 1 / 7) , a magical place of the always.
20.30- Time of the gastronomic tribute. After a well-deserved rest at the hotel, time for dinner. We propose two options depending on your budget:
- Pap'Açorda: a classic among classics in the Barrio Alto. Typical Portuguese food with a touch of modernity. The Bacalhau á Brás is wonderful. Accompany it with a good Alentejo or Douro wine and you will see heaven.
-Eleven : Considered one of the best Lisbon restaurants (if not the best) . Chef Joaquim Koerper offers us a menu based on typically Portuguese ingredients with creative fusions, such as red mullet fillets with spinach, passion fruit and coffee, or olive oil ice cream. Excellent food at its price level, only for comfortable pockets.
24.00- The Lisbon nightlife has a lot to offer. Fun, eclectic and vibrant. You will not get bored.
For the first drink. The most fashionable site is undoubtedly the Rua Nova do Carvalho in Cais do Sodre . An old street of prostitutes and scoundrels, it is today one of the main attractions of the Lisbon nightlife with places as original as the Thought Love or the Bar da Nova Senhora with burlesque shows and much more.
-To continue, a bit of African music. One of the temples of Cape Verdean music has recently been reopened along the river. B.Leza offers live music to dance to the rhythm of Africa in Lisbon.
-And to end the night, the Lux club, (Av. Infante D. Henrique, Armazém A, Cais da Pedra a St.ª Apolónia) the landmark of Lisbon nightlife for more than ten years. Among his partners is Jack Nicholson himself. Attention, dress up to avoid unpleasant surprises at the door.
One of the trams descending Alfama
Day two
10.00-13.00- The Lisbon of Navigators and Discoverers. Today we begin our visit in one of the most monumental historical areas of the city, Belem , from where many of the great Portuguese explorers set off in the 15th and 16th centuries to conquer unknown lands, such as Vasco da Gama or Bartolomeu Dias. But before the historical immersion, it is essential to comply with the inescapable ritual of sitting in the tiled room of the Old Confeitaria de Belém to taste the famous cream cakes. Although you will find them all over the city, this is the obligatory place to take them. For a unique combination of flavors, accompany them with a glass of port wine. Although perhaps after last night's revelry the most appropriate thing would be a 'bica', or better, two.
You can't miss the Jerónimos Monastery, without a doubt the most impressive symbol of Portuguese power and wealth at the time of the discoveries. Built in the Manueline style in the 16th century to commemorate Vasco de Gama's journey. Other points of interest are the Discoveries Monument and the Belem Tower , an elegant Manueline-style tower erected as a defensive watchtower. The Cultural Center of Belém (CCB) is also a good option with a very interesting design shop and a terrace to have a coffee with unbeatable views.
13.00-15.30- A touch of S.Francisco in Lisbon. The 25 de Abril bridge over the Tagus River inevitably reminds us of the Golden Gate Bridge in San Francisco. With 2.3 km, it joins the two banks of the river. On one of whose sides is a replica of Christ the Redeemer of Rio de Janeiro, here called Cristo Rei. To admire this magnificent work of engineering, there is nothing better than having lunch in the so-called Las Docas area. , former cargo warehouses converted into an area of bars and restaurants. Although the Docks have seen better times, it is still possible to find good options to taste a recheada sapateira and a good green wine.
The Tower of Belem
16.00-18.00- A visit to the Portuguese capital would be incomplete without a walk along its main artery: the aristocratic Avenida de la Liberdade , built in the 19th century in the style of the Champs Elysées in Paris. In addition to stately homes with interesting architecture, some select hotels and designer clothing stores, one of the main attractions of the avenue consists of sitting in one of the recently opened kiosks to taste the sensation of the moment, the so-called 'Melhor Bolo de Chocolate of the World'. Created in 1987 in Lisbon, this delicacy has already been exported to Brazil, New York and more recently to Australia.
18.00- We finish our walk in the Plaza de los Restauradores, to put into practice another of the obligatory rituals in the Portuguese capital: drinking ginjinha, a popular drink based on cherries and brandy. The most authentic place to taste it is the Ginjinha do Rossio , in Praça de São Domingos, a tiny place where you will drink side by side with lifelong Lisbonites.
20.30- Dinner at Bica do Sapato , an excellent place to taste the specialties of the exquisite Portuguese cuisine with a chic decoration. The perfect place to say goodbye to the city for its spectacular views over the Tagus River.
The 25th of April bridge over the Tagus