Blessed ham (Iberico de bellota, of course)
We warn you: reading this article may cause gastronomic delusions and high rates of salivation. It is very likely that you will be surprised by some side effect. The most common? The massive ingestion of products of the Iberian pig.
Consequently, you may suffer a slight variation in behavior and, above all, longing for a change of life. Speaking in silver: we are not responsible if, at the end of the last paragraph, you find yourself wondering if your days would have no more meaning surrounded by meadows, pigs and hams. But let's not get ahead of ourselves. Let's start at the beginning.
Sierra de Aracena
The N-433 meanders ceaselessly while passing through small and charming towns in the Sierra Huelva. It's been quite a few kilometers since the landscape began to mutate: we enter the Natural Park of Sierra de Aracena and Picos de Aroche. Suddenly, we find ourselves surrounded by centuries-old meadows that are just a prelude to what remains to be discovered.
After turning one last curve, **Aracena, heart of the Sierra de Huelva **, surprises with its imposing 13th century castle ruling the territory. We have arrived at what will be our base camp for the next few days and the GPS indicates that we are two minutes from the Hotel Convento Aracena & Spa , our destiny.
It is to set foot inside and feel that we are in a microworld that goes far beyond what its walls keep. East former 17th century convent it preserves its original architectural heritage even though it has been transformed into a four-star hotel. A true trip to the past.
But beware, we are not facing just any accommodation! To begin with, because the first thing that catches our attention is the very chapel converted into the main hall.
Further inside appears the old cloister around which a large part of the rooms are arranged. The peace that is breathed here is something unusual and we cannot think of a better place to disconnect from the stress of modern life.
Determined to reserve strength and energy, we opted to taste Huerto Nun, the hotel's own restaurant. Located in what was once the nuns' orchard, we bet on the Iberian - why have we come if not? - for our night menu: 100% Iberian acorn-fed ham, mango and goat cheese salad and, as a climax, an Iberian pork cooked at low temperature. We go to bed with a smile that does not fit on the face.
The morning starts very early with a complete breakfast -toast with Iberian ham included, of course-. The first stop arrives very soon, just 10 minutes from Aracena. Eiriz Hams , located in the small town of Corteconcepcion , with about 500 inhabitants, is our gateway to the wonderful world of 'jamonil'.
A cup of coffee at the store counter warms us up while we chat with Domingo Eiriz , the youngest of the four brothers who run this family business founded in 1840. This is the fourth generation that has struggled to carry out a business that defines the idiosyncrasy of the area so well.
In search and capture of the best acorns
Only a few meters away the dehesa is already there, in which we get up to date on the basic concepts of this new universe in which we are entering. Dozens of oaks and cork oaks -between 40 and 60 per hectare- grow orderly in this space providing an acorn to the ecosystem.
The first to greet us is Manoli, a 100% Iberian sow of Majorcan stock who, happily lying in the pond, shows her pregnant belly without any shame. Suddenly that of being “more comfortable than a pig in a puddle” makes all the sense in the world.
Manolo Eiriz , the family swineherd -or, as we call him, "the man who whispered to pigs" - makes its star appearance giving us the most authentic moments of the day.
Around us, another 10 or 12 Iberian pigs of different breeds -lampiña, retinta, stained Jabugo…- They roam freely, grabbing the acorns scattered on the ground. Those of the oaks, sweeter They are his favourites. No, if in the end it will turn out that we are not so different...
And it is that we are in time of montanera, that is to say, the time of the year that passes between autumn and late winter , when the acorn ripens and falls to the ground. In other words: it is the moment in which the Iberian pig completes its diet with this essential food.
Food of the gods...
The acorn provides the unsaturated fats that infiltrate the ham and turn the Iberian product into something so exquisite and healthy. Oleic acid, iron, vitamins and even calcium: can there be something more complete?
In just these three months, and thanks to her, the pig can gain about 70 kilos. After two montaneras -that is, two years-, he will have reached his ideal weight. Vanessa, Eíriz's guide, is the one who accompanies us to the dryers and warehouses. This is where they are treated and cured legs, shoulders, sausages and cured meats.
First in sea salt, then in artificial dryers, later in natural dryers and, finally, in cellars. All controlled by the Jabugo Ham PDO , responsible for meticulously certifying each of the pieces. It will take three more years for these to reach the high point of quality and flavor. It is clear that the good… is waiting!
At this point the smell of the hams in the cellar intoxicates us to such a level that our head can only think of one thing: we want to taste it! And there, between black and white photographs that tell us the story of the Eiriz family It is when we close our eyes and concentrate all our senses on the palate.
Tomato cream from the Jacarandá restaurant
Suddenly, the revelation comes to us: yes, we could live with 100% acorn-fed Iberian ham as the only food for the rest of our lives . And it's not a joke!
Just in case it has not been clear to us that gastronomy in these parts is something out of the ordinary, we set course for Sierra Fig Tree , one of the most beautiful towns in the province. There we continue with this "Iberian experience" in the Jacaranda restaurant . From the hand of Isaac, its owner, we taste the flavor of Huelva again.
A wine from the land accompanies us while indecision takes over us. How to choose between so much delicacy? tomato cream ends up being a triumph, just like Huelva prawn tartar and the star dish: acorn-fed Iberian pork cheek with carrot purée . My goodness… So much joy has to be a sin!
Just a few kilometers away is the Farm La Orapia , one of the many dehesas scattered throughout the southwest of the peninsula in which raises his pigs Sánchez Romero Carvajal . Or what is the same, five jacks , maximum reference in the world of 100% acorn-fed Iberian pigs.
Finca La Orapía
there awaits us Marco Alvarez , who has been working for the famous brand for five years. We take a walk with him at sunset among holm oaks, cork oaks and pigs while he tells us about the excellence of his hams.
One of the aspects that distinguishes Cinco Jotas is the fact that it only produces Pata Negra hams . And what does he mean by this? To begin with, that their pigs are all 100% Iberian -that is, from mother and father also 100% Iberian-; that in montanera period they feed on acorns and that they have What minimum, one hectare of pasture for each pig.
While the sunset gives us a spectacular light on the meadow and the pigs run around without knowing where to continue with their particular feast of acorns, we have it clear.
For more than 130 years (since 1879) the town of Jabugo has been home to the cellars where Cinco Jotas hams are cured. In the same building where it all began, today the production chain for 100% acorn-fed Iberian ham is closed, defending the artisanal and natural production of all its products as was done in the past.
Thanks to the wisdom of the locals of Jabugo, they have been able to preserve experiences and traditions acquired over generations . We talk about history recorded in the hands of those who work one of the most acclaimed gourmet products in the world.
Five Jotas Winery
Between information panels, explanatory videos and the latest technology, we learn about how a part is shaped , how it is salted and, above all, what are the keys that make this corner of the world the ideal place for curing 100% Iberian ham.
To begin with, because of its location: The Natural Park of Sierra de Aracena and Picos de Aroche is located about 500 meters above sea level. Also because of the rainfall rate: we are in the third rainiest place in the entire Peninsula. Finally, and consequently, for the very high degree of humidity.
In case anyone doubted it, we clarify it: we do not leave Cinco Jotas without tasting its ham. And it's going to be that we're getting used to this, hey... While It looks , who has spent a lifetime dedicated to the company, cuts ham for us with marvelous dexterity , our salivary glands kick into gear.
Just a minute later, the explosion of flavor in our mouths turns the experience into something absolutely unforgettable. After so many emotions in a row, we decided to relax a bit: we put on some very tasty bathrobes and we head to Spa of the Hotel Convento Aracena.
An 80-minute thermal tour works like a real therapy and leaves us ready to attack again. It is clear: on serve, no one beats us.
Bull's tail truffle on crumb biscuit and P.X. mushrooms. in Montecruz
It is no surprise: the day ends, once again, enjoying the Iberian product. At the Montecruz de Aracena restaurant , next to the incredible Grotto of Wonders Manolo García, chef and business owner, delights us with his creations.
Known for raising his own pigs -whose products he later serves in the restaurant-, Manolo speaks of the Iberian pig as the most exclusive and exquisite ingredient in the entire Sierra de Huelva. Great protagonist of his letter, he has earned him more than one of the awards that he carries behind his back.
Among the great delicacies with which we allow ourselves to be entertained, there is no lack of grilled mushrooms with ham , the bull tail truffle on crumb biscuit and mushrooms at P.X. or, our favourite, papadum of smashed potatoes with small pieces of marinated prey and tomato soup . oh my friend this is it Huelva on the palate.
To say goodbye to the place that has already stolen our hearts -and stomachs-, we go to another of the areas of the natural park most linked to 100% Iberian ham: The Repilate . After traveling several kilometers of track wrapped in meadows , we reach the Montefrio Farm , also home to Lola, our cicerone.
On a terrace overlooking paradise, while the rain soaks the landscape around us, we talked to Lola about the mundane and the divine, but, above all, about what she has been doing, together with her husband and her three children, since 30 years ago : produce pure organic acorn-fed Iberian ham.
A little pig from Finca Montefrío
Lola confesses that this work requires a lot of dedication, is more laborious and less profitable, but it more than pays them off. Its annual production is made up of only 80 pigs: "We produce little, but of the best quality."
In fact, in this house they even cook for the pigs: everything they eat is healthy and natural. When it is not the montanera season, its menu is made up of from cereals from organic farming to field grass, alfalfa or pumpkin.
As we help Lola to feed the chickens and goats her, she tells us that a few years ago they decided to expand their business to rural accommodation. On her farms they have four houses in which they receive families and couples from all over the world eager for contact with nature. In addition to go hiking or breathe the pure air of the mountains , they take the experience of collaborating, as we do now, in the tasks of the field. Memories for a lifetime.
After we get to know the 12 breeding females that will give birth in a few months a new generation of Iberian pigs Montefrío , Lola shows us the small natural cellar installed on the ground floor of the house. They invested in it a few years ago and are more than proud of the result.
It is there, while hams and shoulders hang over our heads, that we say goodbye to Lola with the feeling that we leave the authentic earthly paradise.
It is then when the reflection inevitably arrives: Would our days make more sense surrounded by meadows, pigs and hams? Most likely, yes. But, while we decide whether or not to take the step… How about a little ham cover?
Goats at Finca Montefrío