This time, we don't eat Seville... We eat El Porvenir!
Few are the travelers who, upon arriving in Seville, consider strolling through the Future : the Giralda and the Santa Cruz neighborhood are too tempting. But tourism, sometimes, goes through investigating further. to investigate what other alternatives exist in the destination , leaving aside their great claims.
And if that is done in Seville, the neighborhood in question will have its own name: el Porvenir is a stately neighborhood of regionalist-style houses —that is, where exposed brick, ceramic and tile facades abound— built at the beginning of the 20th century. Here, sheltered by one of the most romantic gardens in the world — Maria Luisa Park — and sheltered by the imposing Plaza de España and Avenida de la Palmera, where many of the buildings that they served as pavilions during that Ibero-American exhibition that put Seville on the map of the world, we found our place.
A place where slow life has become the owner and mistress of everything . Guides with umbrellas and tourist apartments have not yet arrived here; There are no signs of foreigners pending on the map or the Instagram photo of the moment. here, friends, you live the most real Seville: the one that has bet heavily on the true pleasures of life.
GASTRONOMY TO POWER IN THE NEIGHBORHOOD OF 29
Life is full of excuses with which to delight each of our senses and, without a doubt, gastronomy is at the top of the list . Because we like to eat —who doesn't?—, discover destinations through their flavors , and much more if we do it in places full of character, of those that hide a story behind.
Estraperlo is an ode to organic cuisine.
Like the one you have, for example, Estraperlo, a charming business dedicated to organic cuisine , to the sale of local products and to the promotion of gastronomy through interesting culinary workshops . At the helm of this ship, Ana Sánchez, who together with Beatriz and Pablo , two of her children, make up the other two legs of this three-legged table that has already become an emblem of Seville.
Its journey began more than a decade ago in the lively Alameda de Hércules , although they did not take long to move to the neighborhood in which today they have made a huge hole. Because more than a business, Estraperlo symbolizes a whole philosophy of life: the one that advocates a conscious and moderate diet, always based on seasonal products —what is this about eating avocados in summer?—, and doing it, moreover, with the quality by flag.
And there goes the first of the pleasures of our particular journey: sitting at one of its outside tables on a sunny day and enjoy the benefits of an original, healthy and attractive menu . Pablo, behind the stove, puts into practice everything he has learned in his journey through British catering businesses before deciding to return to put their grain of sand in the family project.
Huge windows let in light into the interior, where the tables are covered by a stunning cupboard in which the product is exposed : like good black marketeers, here they are specialists in offering what is difficult to find in other places. Industrial design furniture, a lot of wood and a lot of charm: Estraperlo is a must stop , of that there is no doubt.
The perfect tandem at Sobretablas: Camila Ferraro at the stove and Robert Tetas at the wines.
As it is also a neighborhood classic, but one of the real ones. Because Casa Palacios has been installed in El Porvenir even before the vaunted exhibition was held : if on the 29th Seville threw itself into the event, on the 26th Don Blas Palacio was already waging war behind the same mahogany bar in which Juan Manuel Pérez, the current manager.
Hooks that hang from the ceiling in which they used to hold hams and various cured meats, Delicatessen of the most top arrivals from all corners of Spain and brown paper to rage on which the genre is served: that's how they spend it in this historic grocery store-bar . Outside, with a vermouth in one hand and a slice of Cádiz pork rinds in the other, life feels wonderful.
THE FESTIVAL DOESN'T STOP
But the gastro experience continues, because El Porvenir was also the chosen place by chef Camila Ferraro and sommelier Robert Tits to establish their great common project: Table tops. Settled in a historic building erected in 1929, it has become —and anyone dares to say otherwise— in one of the famous restaurants in Seville . So much so that it is better to book in advance if you want to get a table.
Camila —Best Newcomer Chef at Madrid Fusión 2020 — commitment to a cuisine full of today's flavors, but with sophisticated elaborations, which respect their times, which surprise both the eye and the tasting. To whet your appetite, it is worth dreaming of your shrimp with pork rinds, its tuna belly glazed with ajoblanco and puffed quinoa or its veal gizzard with parmentier and pickles . To clean the plate, hey.
The accompaniment is already in charge of Robert —Second best sommelier in Andalusia and Catalonia—, which displays his charms and wisdom by offering a wine list of the highest quality: more than 250 references are waiting to make diners happy . A note? Both met working at Celler de Can Roca before heading to this beautiful city: little more to add.
Although we add, yes, but more proposals. Because not far away, at 14 Progreso Street, there is the temple to meat: Leña al Lomo It occupies a large room decorated with detail where the embers lit with oak wood they make everything on their menu take on a unique, special flavor.
Very different, yes, it is Otaola's offer, on San Salvador street: inside the El Porvenir Market , when the fruit, meat and fish stalls lower the metal fence, there is room for a whole universe in which the rice —of the gentleman, of lobsters, a banda or whatever happens — is the absolute protagonist.
The tables then unfold, occupying the space: surrounded by the leafy interior garden, the hours pass between talks, toasts and the best of feasts. A gastro tribute suitable for coeliacs. Although for those who conscientiously seek gluten free, the solution is in the stylish Tarragon —from the same team as Plato Plató, another El Porvenir classic—. In his kitchen, only recipes suitable for those intolerant to gluten are prepared and taking them in a space designed with such great taste —what do we like about his motto, Let if flow—, is a real pleasure.
THE REVOLUTION BEYOND THE PLATE
Casa Ozama caused a sensation as soon as it opened its doors this 2021 and, of course, it is also found in El Porvenir —and not just anywhere, but occupying a stately home from 1912—. You can also go to her to eat, it would be missing more, but is not the only thing to do between the walls of its three floors —or is it four?— open to the public.
There are countless reasons to visit Casa Ozama, but without a doubt, the decoration is one of them.
With a decoration in which exoticism dares with the most surreal prints, the experience invites you to try their menu —food, signature cocktails, what difference does it make?— while a universe of figures from wild animals, floral patterned walls and furniture from bygone days help to fantasize about a world apart. And what a world. For that very reason, there are many reasons to pay a visit to the new place to be in Seville , but without a doubt its intriguing speakeasy, its garden with romantic overtones and its secret corners are enough to convince.
And very close it turns out that the alternative offer skyrockets: because you can—must—go shopping in El Porvenir . And for sample, a button: The Ostrich Tutu is a charming signature business of Frenchified overtones led by Sevillian Montse B. in which fashion, decoration and crafts go hand in hand . For a clue to its possibilities, just take a look at your Instagram account : Brands such as Compañía Fantástica, Botanicae or Pim Pam Pum Joyas share showcases with garments and necklaces designed by the owner herself.
And just a few steps away —like everything in this neighborhood—, more fashion and more design. Malmö The Store bets on many things, but above all on international clothing brands among which everything that sounds Nordic stands out. Between dresses, sweaters and skirts, there is also room for jewelry firms founded by Sevillian creators.
La Mansa, for its part, has spent years defending the artisan : Eduardo and María Barbé travel the world in search of small communities to collaborate with from manufactured products that have essence, that tell stories. In his premises in El Porvenir, the mixture of cultures is exhibited on hangers and shelves from products only handmade, original —they are always unique models— and sustainable . A way to go around the world in full rule.
A way to finish, in style, our particular walk through El Porvenir.