The fashion street in London
The off licenses (little shops that in Spain we brand as 'el chino' or 'los pakis') coexist with the most avant-garde kitchen , the more countercultural literature or establishments that have become centennial relics . The walk, as a final embroidery, leads to the Regent's Canal Haggerston , some bucolic views and another path worth mentioning. On Saturdays, the street sheds its skin and becomes one of the most cutting-edge markets in the city, despite the fact that its history dates back to 1890: the ** Broadway Market **.
Welcome to Broadway Market Street
The market began selling fruits and vegetables from that date and it was falling in consumers until in the nineties you could barely see four or three vendor stalls. I don't know very well if it was due to that disastrous situation or due to a simple fact of chance - call it gentrification - that, since 2004, the market has been transmuting its essence and philosophy until it has become a particular Eden for those who call themselves food lovers . Broadway Market is now a kaleidoscope of flavors and cultures , where one can find from 9:00 a.m. to 5:00 p.m. small gourmet bites, textile crafts or local art.
Broadway Market: the origin of it all
Thanks to this sabbatical activity, the street has become vigorous cultural asset , of those preferred by hipsters, glasses, twees and modern , but without that softness of the superficial. Starting from our initial journey, that is, arriving by London Fields , you will find a small bookstore on your right, the ** Donlon Books ** (nº75) and a pub on your left, the Cut & Mitton (No.76) . It seems to us a perfect combination that must occur in that same order. We explain why. The small Donlon bookstore has been spreading the counterculture since 2008 with rare publications and titles , with a focus on critical theory, LGBT literature, erotica, the esoteric, music and fashion . They are one of those bookstores that, although they do not provide food, keep the spirit of independent publishers alive.
ode to counterculture
Take one of the titles that you like the most and come to the Cut & Mitton to read it while you have your pint of Truman's Pale or whoever picks up your letter. They are all locally brewed craft beers.
Donlon bookstore interior
We resume our walk that, despite the short length of the broadway market street , it will last for an entire afternoon (and more). In the nº71 you will find one of the favorite places of gourmet palates, the Fin and Flounder . We dare not say that they are the best oysters in London because we have not verified it, but they are a marvel for the senses. This establishment brings back the concept of ' local fisherman ', as they say. “Our passion is to open your eyes to pleasures. We want to savor fresh fish, recall that childhood memory of the fish market window in our neighborhood”. Believe it or not, it is difficult, if not impossible, to find a fishmonger in London.
Broadway Market also houses one of the most select butcher shops, the Hill & Szrok . But this is not just any butcher shop. To begin with, they only supply meat raised in organic farms in england , and to top it off, the place cleans its work table well to become at night… a restaurant! “An idea that materialized in the fifteenth century with the concept of the cookshop and that disappeared over time. We have only transported it to the 21st century”, explain its creators.
The butcher shop that becomes a restaurant when night falls...
cute cafes , of the vintage and modern, gone through sheet metal and paint to simulate past times, with drinks of all flavors and extensive tea menus, there are many. Like the Climpson and Sons , in 67, with a relaxed atmosphere of grandmother's pastries, or the Twigs , which premiered just four months ago their concept of “plants and coffee” at No. 12 Broadway Market Mews (in a corner of the main street) . It is better to go to this cafeteria early because they only serve breakfast and lunch and they close at 5:00 p.m.
coffee + plants
Climpson and Sons
Another thing you shouldn't overlook is La Bouche , at 35-37, a delicatessen coffee shop whose slogan is the sinuous song of Serge Gainsbourg 'L'eau a la bouche', and with all the right in the world, since its fresh products and, for the most part, French, will make our mouths water.
from the terrace of La Bouche , you will be able to observe the dexterity that they have with the scissors in the Broadway Boutique , a hairdressing salon that stands out for its interior design, classic and modern, with busts hanging from the ceiling, ivy decorating the walls, and dryers hanging from the wall, of course. Even if you don't have an appointment, go take a look at it, it's wonderful!
La Bouche
And if it's about Mediterranean cuisine, then we also have to name **El Ganso**, a Spanish cuisine restaurant that opened two years ago. His chef, Marcelo, showed passion and skill for cooking from a very young age. Gifts that come from a family "Fanatic for food and cooking." He says that one of the most vivid memories he has is the one with full tables in his father's restaurant, in Valencia. Though the products are fresh , many of them are not Spanish, but from England, despite everything, the recipes are still the traditional ones: Santiago cake, seafood paella, grilled octopus, black pudding from Burgos... There is, of course, no shortage of Iberian Ham.
El Ganso, Spanish cuisine in the neighborhood
The afternoon is falling, here at this time of year it gets dark earlier, but we still have a couple of essential places to visit. You may be familiar with the ** F. Cook **, the legendary house of the ' english feet ' From london. He opened it for the first time Fred Cook in 1862 , on Kingsland Rd. Decades later, in 1900, he opened his second store on Broadway Market Street t and ten years later, another in Brick Lane . Today only the one on Broadway remains and the place is run by Bob Cook, great-great-grandson of Fred. F.Cook reminds me of Mrs. Lovett's bakery, the one Hugh Wheeler imagined in his 1979 novel/musical Sweeney Todd , the devilish barber of Fleet Street, set in London.
If you know the story (that the meat in the empanadas was human) then maybe you'll put the cry on earth. But there is nothing to fear-or yes, Bob has confessed to me that the recipe is still secret after all these years-. Whatever it is, the feet of meat and vegetables are to repeat. They are served with eels and mashed potatoes and you can buy them for less than €3. Gobble them up sitting in front of one of their large marble tables while you listen to the Billy Joel's 'Uptown Girl' that sounds on the radio. At least that's how my walk ended.
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F Cook