pure spectacle
As soon as you enter Coke , impressive wherever you look at it, you try to remember for a moment the distribution of the emblematic archy nightclub , which for years occupied the premises. But right away you decide nostalgia for what . And you start to get carried away the coke experience , That it is.
Your entrance: spectacular
The first stop on the journey takes you to the ground floor bar , in which, with a certain clandestine air, they prepare a coke club cocktail accompanied by a Canarian potato with red mojo sauce and a polyphenol and raisin snack , ball of wine flavor; to Earth.
The next step is the cellar , territory of Rafael and as lavish a temple as the one we remember from his restaurant in Humanes, where the history of the Sandovals began. Here, crispy Iberian ham with pink tomato and the Paprika macaron and Casar cake they place the palate in umamis to start salivating. Strong.
First stop: the bar
Mario waits in the kitchen , on the main floor, with a wheat beer from the craft line Casimir of Mahou , a spicy cochineal trotters saam and a turtledove taco with grilled leek . From exoticism to autumn in two bites.
Affable as always, he remembers that “the credit for this is not mine alone; Without my brothers, none of this would be possible.” Maybe that's why everything begins to smell like a third Michelin star , eager for the whole to fall so that numerology fits its pieces.
Saam of spiced cochineal trotters
Already in the room, and with the restriction of not having more than a glass of wine instead of following the steps of the menu ( €185 ) harmonized with 12 references ( €110 ) , The party begins. We will be concise:
White prawn with boletus edulis, Andalusian fried head and Amontillado reduction : game of textures, quick bite of intense flavor.
Amanita caesarean stew with hake pilpil, corn cake and eels : luxury treated with simplicity, as if nothing were happening here. Even if it happens.
Andalusian fried white prawn with its head and wine reduction
Gastrogenomics of smoked vegetables and seeds with organic sprouts: watchword of the house, the sublimation that reminds you of that, that sometimes (rarely) vegetables taste not of something, but of everything.
Marinated sea bream in Oloroso barrel with aubergine and purple garlic : Mario shows us the barrel and tells us about the homemade and apparently simple process with which they achieve such an impeccable marinade.
King crab with tripe sauce, crab, sea urchin roe and cod skin : when Madrid meets the world. The best for whom this writes. Bombazo of those who never want it to end. Gimme more.
Cured Iberian pork jowls with roasted piquillo peppers, truffle and nettles: imagine a classic loin with peppers (of the sandwich type). Now, sublimate it with the best of the sea and the land. Well that.
The enjoyment room
Bravo bull t-bone with its truffled stew, sweet tendons and autumn mushrooms : more Madrid, more wood. and ole
Almadraba parpatana with tamarillo stew and vine shoots : when the best of the tuna becomes trompe l'oeil and looks like the sweetest of cheeks. Impeccable.
Wood oven lacquered suckling pig with osmosis lettuce and roasted peach : Coque's suckling pig, finally. The best. So that there are no doubts with the new premises; The oven that has given the family so much joy for decades looks beautiful there… and what remains.
Baked lacquered suckling pig
After the desserts (a fresh sour apple sorbet with cider with yogurt mousse, the tasty almond cake with thyme cream Y Mahón cheese ice cream and the spiced chocolates with smoked salt, orange and rosemary ice cream), a view of the rest of the room makes it more than clear what they say out there: the filling is absolute.
And Juan Diego confirms it for us: “We're at the top, really; with waiting lists and a lot of support from the first day”. Gossip, I can't resist asking him how he had dinner Jon Hamm, the protagonist of Mad Men , who was here a few days ago: "He loved it, he speaks phenomenal Spanish and he told us it had been a great trip."
And boy is it. The journey towards the fulfilled dream of the Sandoval brothers. Another one.
IN DATA
Address: Marques del Riscal Street, 11
Schedule: 14:00–17:00, 20:00–24:00
Half price: tasting menu €185
In Coque everything is taken care of in detail