land of boundless dreams
Land of boundless dreams. Strategic enclave. Bridge between the Arab and Western world . Paradise of architectural extremes. Before traveling to Dubai I read a lot (perhaps too much) about this unlikely city, awash with dazzling skyscrapers that stand insolently in the middle of the Arabian desert, where the police drive Lexus RC F and Bugatti Veyron. And I wonder if I'll be able to meet her without prejudice.
“Be responsible with what you write about it” , asks me Lantian Xie, a 28-year-old artist from Dubai who, as he himself explains, belongs to the creative movement that begins to give its own voice to this place. “Give Dubai time. It is taking off, we have to wait and see what it becomes, ”he adds.
From the outset, it seems almost impossible to resist the energy transmitted by the capital of the homonymous Arab emirate, where everyone seems to have a story to tell. Most of them, yes, do not go back a long time – it would be almost impossible in a city that began to settle as such early 19th century – and they usually talk about how it ended up being part of this corner of the Persian Gulf.
Ras Al Khor Nature Reserve
Emiratis make up about 15% of the population and expats, who were not born here, rave about outdoor living, opportunities, cleanliness and safety . Here, they say, it is possible to leave an iPhone 6 on a bar table and have someone come hours later to your house to return it to you.
Tell tales few can tell (Tell tales that only a few can tell), reads a sign in the dubai mall , a sprawling incense-scented mall packed with luxury stores which includes, among other things, an aquarium, Galeries Lafayette and the Level Shoe District, more than 8,900 square meters dedicated only to shoes. Under this slogan is the image of the Burj Khalifa , the tallest residential building in the world **(828 meters high)**, to the top of which the handsome Crown Prince of Dubai climbed in style, His Highness Sheikh Hamdan Bin Mohammed Bin Rashid Al Maktoum , alias Fazza, to celebrate that the city will host the World Expo 2020 . Here, the princes perform these and other feats, and Fazza, who is a horseman, diver and skydiver, collects them on his Instagram for his 2.9 million followers.
And it is that Dubai it might as well have been invented by the mind of a child. In this gigantic amusement park They don't seem put off by anything. Is the beach sand not fine and white enough? Another one is brought. No islands at hand? They are built (the artificial archipelagos Palm and The World would deserve a separate report).
Olga wears embroidered jumpsuit by Zuhair Murad and jewels by Anton Heunis
Countless works, authentic architectural wonders , are performed day and night; the streets are transformed visibly, almost always with gleaming mirrors on the facades, which reinforce the underlying idea that everything here is a reflection of something. The last straw? Definitely, Falcon City of Wonders , a megaproject of more than 371,000 square meters which, in theory, will come to life in a couple of years and will house replicas of the Egyptian pyramids , the Eiffel Tower , the Taj Mahal wave tower of Pisa , in addition to shopping centers, sports facilities and more than 5,500 residential units.
Another fantasy worthy of an overflowing imagination, the Burj 2020 , will take shape in a few years as a district with seven towers and a built-up area that encompasses nearly twice the size of New York's Rockefeller Center. Is such hyperdevelopment reasonable? Is it even viable? As punctual visitors, it is not up to us to value it. And, why fool ourselves, it is much more fun to get carried away by the collective enthusiasm.
From our car we can see the Dubai Marriott Hotel Al Jaddaf , a luxury hotel that, we commented, seems to be in the middle of nowhere. Our driver, Rafeek, a native of Kerala (India), contradicts our impressions. "It's a good location, soon one of the best." In the background a new urban provocation is outlined: the Frame , a museum on the history of the city in the form of a framework that visitors can walk through a glass floor 150 meters high.
The Burj Khalifa was built to break records.
Dubai has grown superlatively in the last 15 years and expects to receive 20 million annual visitors to the Expo , which will be held under the theme Connecting Minds, Creating the Future (Connecting minds, creating the future) .
“It's not just about having a vision. Here they have had it and they are implementing it”, he stresses. Ricardo Fisas , President of the Spanish Business Council, an organization aimed at strengthening business and cultural ties between Spain and the United Arab Emirates, and CEO of Natura Bissé in the Middle East. He explains to us that, recently, in an interview they told the Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum , Vice President and Prime Minister of the United Arab Emirates (UAE) and Governor of Dubai, who should be proud of what he is creating, as his children and grandchildren would see it. He replied: "Make no mistake, I want to see it".
Time (and almost everything else) is money here , and much of the charm seems to lie in this bold lack of complexes. Fisas shares another anecdote with us: “a French colleague told us that in Paris, for example, if you want to access the most exclusive luxury, it is difficult to book it , they look at you from top to bottom... Here this does not happen at all”.
High level, everywhere
In agreement, living here is expensive. The rent for a one-bedroom apartment in a more or less good area is around 7,000 dirhams per month ** (about 1,740 euros) **. And yet, there is a real brain drain from European and American countries in this direction. Perhaps it is due to relatively easy to find a job in a place where everything remains to be done and everything is done in a big way. Not to mention that free time has overtones of constant vacation.
Every Friday, expats indulge in dutiful hedonism for the **important ritual of brunch**, a four-hour celebration in which (yes, yes) you drink alcohol , there is live music and delicacies such as _umm al_i, a traditional dessert that used to be made with leftover bread from the day before, milk, raisins and pistachios. "You can go out every day to a different place, without repeating" , points out Francy Torres, a Colombian hairdresser who has lived in California, but stays with the growing love of Dubaiis for kitesurfing and organic coffees . Some American spirit has the thing. He drives everywhere , though for those who don't enjoy the quirky local driving style (as opposed to the proverbial Emirati hospitality), there are two metro lines as gleaming and efficient as the rest of the services.
During the summer – from May to October – thermometers can reach 48 degrees , and life is done indoors (and with a sweater, to resist the powerful air conditioners) . “The ideal temperature is at seven in the morning. At that time you already see a lot of people on the beach doing sports”, tells us the Spanish Sandra Farrero, Director of Marketing and Communication at Madinat Jumeirah , the vast resort where we stayed. It is made up of the Al-Qsar hotels , of more elegant spirit; Mina A'Salam , perfect for families with children ; Y Dar Al-Masyaf , made up of two-storey houses that hide an interior patio with a fountain. In this, the uninhibited dubai luxury translates to going barefoot in the morning from your room to the beach or your private pool , with the certainty that a butler is taking care of everything. It is ideal to go unnoticed (which is an advantage if you are Michael Bublé , one of the illustrious clients) , but with the opportunity to enjoy everything that is available in Madinat Jumeirah. For example, **its own souk (souk)**, which you can reach by abra (traditional boat) through some man-made canals. The resort will add a fourth hotel in September 2016, Jumeirah Al Naseem.
Dar Al Masyaf hotel swimming pool
Facing the private beach of Madinat Jumeirah stands the burj al arab , one of the few hotels with 7 stars of the world , with its iconic sail shape. Its silhouette is hypnotic when illuminated at night and I admit that, although it gave me a first impression of papier-mâché, gain majesty in short distances . If you practice paddle surfing, very fashionable here, you can spot a turtle nearby.
The sunset will bring you the picturesque evening image of Dubai couples chatting and pushing baby carriages, they sometimes chatting under the niqab and wearing sneakers . Another unforgettable postcard is that of the skyline seen from the nature reserve of Ras Al Khor, a wildlife sanctuary where they congregate flamingos on a city skyline that looks like a mirage. At nightfall – suddenly, at half past five – it is worth going shopping for Box Park , a succession of cubic constructions lit up in colors and full of cute cafes and shops frequented by Emiratis. Eyes accustomed to traditional clothing distinguish origin and social status through cufflinks or collars over the kandura (male tunic) or ribbons over the gutra (handkerchief), while young women in skinny jeans and high heels under the abaya browse garments by local designers, intermingled with the trendiest on the international scene in concept stores such as Urbanista.
Entrance to the Palace of Sheikh Mohammed bin Rashid Al Maktoum
The same aesthetic and cultural combination can be enjoyed in international restaurants like the bistro cold , in the Madinat Jumeirah Souk , where the evenings end in a peculiar tower of Babel: the impressive rooftop of Pacha Dubái, one of the best rooftops to have a drink with people of all nationalities. Before, it is worth getting carried away while enjoying a fusion of Mediterranean and Arabic cuisine at the Ziya dinner show. The Chilean sea bass is impressive and the show, which moves the concept of the Spanish totem to the codes of the Arab world , is inspired by the surrealism of the film The Imaginary of Doctor Parnassus and the travels of Ibn Battuta , a legendary explorer born in Tangier .
Those looking to get into the more royal side of Dubai often visit the restored historic neighborhood of Al Fahidi or Al Bastakiya , on the south side of Dubai Creek, is often disappointed: its ultra-clean look reminiscent of a theme park. To overcome this feeling, you must cross Dubai Creek (the river) in abra: it is one of the most pleasant and economical experiences (one dirham, 25 euro cents) provided by the city. On the other side, you can eat for 20 dirhams **(4 euros) ** in authentic places in Pakistani, Arabic, Korean or Indian dishes.
One night at the Qbara restaurant
The walk through bustling spice souk it is a must for understanding Dubai today and serves as a reminder of real life far from the bubble of luxury hotels and shopping malls. In a quick zoom, the visitor confirms that the city is actually two cities: that of luxury and that of workers , who live here or even more outside the frame, in the mountains and the desert. The immigration It is the engine of what is said to be 'the cleanest city in India'.
In the other souk, the gold one, we listen to the prayers of the mosques and we see shoes piled up at their doors. Vendors beg attention for their extravagant pieces of jewelry and the smell of oud is omnipresent . Although it is another, the charcoal and spices , which sums up the Dubai identity. So believes Tuomas Heikkinen, chef of the Raffles Garden . In the kitchen of this urban oasis, where Emiratis come to have privacy and smoke shisha in one of their individual shops, 15 different nationalities mingle and prepare traditional arabic recipes : to share and more spicy than chili. “It is a privilege to be part of a fast-developing culinary scene. Every week a new concept lands – the Finn stands out. Young, vibrant and international people give character to this city , where there is no fear of creating”.
Lebanese food at Khaymat Al Bahar in Madinat Jumeirah.
In an attempt, they say, to stop being considered a soulless shopping destination, Dubai strong commitment to art and design. And, if projecting an image of success is the first step to achieving it, they do it like no one else. Simply visit any of its official web pages, such as the ** Culture ** or the Dubai Design District or D3 to verify it. Taking a look at the latter and reading how much has been written about its potential led us to think that everything was happening there.
We are witnessing the launch of an online platform, ** Creatopia ** and, in truth, we come across a still ghost town that, they assure us, will be breaking the mold in a few months. I wonder if it's possible (pre) fabricate a neighborhood like this and get it cool. One of the participants in the event, Al Sharif, Managing Director of Dubai Media City and Dubai Studio City, answers me. A decade ago he was asked if the city was ready for the two agencies he works for. “Since then we have had about 8,000 requests to film and big productions like the Fast & Furious saga”.
Latian Xie, Dubai artist
“We should be proud of our origins, no matter how fast the world changes” highlights Hessa Al Awadhi, a Dubai artist whose works are inspired by Emirati visual beauty and customs. The UAE government has always supported art and in recent years interesting initiatives have been launched like Art Dubai or The Sikka Art Fair.
Alserkal Avenue is a great destination for emerging talent. It is in this creative hub, located in the industrial zone of Al Quoz, where we know to young Lantian Xie . Made up of thirty galleries, it has just added 40 new spaces. Among its objectives is bring together collaborators from different disciplines , encourage open dialogue and provide a platform to develop ideas. At its epicenter, the A4 Space, there is a cinema projection room, a cafe and a coworking area.
I am aware of my prejudices when I am surprised by the series Earth-Love-Fire by the Egyptian artist Ghada Amer, exhibited at the headquarters of the New Yorker Leila HellerGallery . Her theme, centered on women and her sexuality, and her pop air technique that replaces the line of the drawing with colored threads are not, I admit, what I expected to find here. “If you come to Dubai for two days or a week, or five years, you will not understand this place at all. We are not interested in the expectations of others about us. It is exciting to think what this city means, without having to look outside”, concludes Lantian. Perhaps Dubai is an incomprehensible city. Fortunately, many things can be enjoyed without the need to understand them.
* This article has been published in the February 92 issue of Condé Nast Traveler magazine. Subscribe to the printed edition (**11 printed issues and a digital version for €24.75, by calling 902 53 55 57 or from our website**) and enjoy free access to the digital version of Condé Nast Traveler for iPad. The February issue of Condé Nast Traveler is available in its digital version to enjoy on your preferred device.
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