Romantic getaway in Lisbon: the 'saudade' is prohibited
All cities are discovered at street level, but in Lisbon the simple act of walking leads us to great discoveries to write our personal guide. There is no other way to approach her than by looking at her balconies, her bookstores, her hairdressers, her greengrocers... anything she does on a daily basis a unique show.
A RESTAURANT
100 ways (Rua do Teixeira, 35, Bairro Alto). Fixed price tasting menu and without a menu, this cozy and intimate place was the bet, perfect for a conversation for two in the Bairro Alto, which prides itself on being one of the pioneers of the new cuisine in Lisbon. Sardines, salmon carpaccio, scallops, duck ravioli and the inexcusable Portuguese cod, here poached with potatoes, cabbage, tomato and coriander, are some of the dishes on a menu that is traditional in its ingredients and inspired in its presentation, the work of Bosnian chef Ljubomir Stanisic . They also have a bistro in Chiado , more informal, which opens until dawn.
The Bosnian Chef's Portuguese Bistro
A WALK
The oldest and most personal area of Lisbon deserves one, two, ten walks... The monumental side of Alfama , a neighborhood with the layout and spirit of a town, is covered by the Castle of San Jorge, the Cathedral, the National Pantheon and the churches of Santo Estevao and San Vicente de Fora. The human side, its inhabitants, who they have made the outdoor drying of clothes a Lisbon icon . The musical side, the fado, that lamenting and suburban song that vibrates better if it's at night. And the most curious side puts it that mix in you the old becomes trendy and brings another wave to streets like Rua dos Remédios, with a new generation of places to keep on the agenda.
For a lively, friendly and not too trite night we recommend the following: Arcaz Velho , famous for its rum cola, to bela , a wine and tapas place with good fado on Sundays and world music concerts on Thursdays, and superfragilistic , a modern and cocktail-loving tavern. At numbers 93-95 Rua Sao Joao da Praça, the pois coffee , a vaulted room with nice armchairs to curl up in, is a quieter alternative.
Typical balcony in Alfama
General view of Alfama with the National Pantheon crowning it
AN EXPERIENCE
If it's Tuesday or Saturday, the plan is clear: spend an entertaining morning browsing among the stalls on the Feira da Ladra or 'thief's market' , the most traditional flea market in Lisbon. Furniture, sewing or typewriters, vinyl collections, mythical recordings of the greats of fado, old Portuguese posters... anything goes and everything is bought and sold in this universe that ranges from vintage to kitsch and is settle early in the surroundings of the National Pantheon of Santa Engracia.
TWO PALACES, TWO HOTELS
If when you think of Lisbon, tiled friezes, wrought iron railings over the roofs, terracotta floors or creaking parquet, and baroque granite ornaments on doors and windows come to mind, then the Belmonte Palace (Páteo Dom Fradique, 14) is your hotel in the city. And if you are a hopeless romantic, too. After a rehabilitation carried out with care, this palace gave way to one of the most elegant and authentic lodgings in Lisbon.
Sleep between Lisbon tiles
Exquisite was also the restoration that the Ramalhete Palace (Rua das Janelas Verdes, 92), whose architecture places us in the most Portuguese 18th century. Only 12 rooms with their own decorative motifs ; the three suites have original tiles in the bathrooms, views of the gorge and their private living room. The swimming pool makes it a true oasis in the center of the city.
*** You may also be interested in...**
- Passion Break: a getaway for two in Capri
- Lisbon Guide
- All romantic getaways
- All the articles of Arantxa Neyra
The pool oasis of Lisbon
Belmonte Palace