El Ingrediente, the last (gastronomic) hope of Calle Ponzano

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Robin Food Style Duck Tartare with Fried Capers and Japanese Mayonnaise

Robin Food Style Duck Tartare with Fried Capers and Japanese Mayonnaise

Nothing could be further from the truth, because, modernities aside, a short – and even long – route through the area is enough to verify that the fifth range reigns at ease with beers and wines at high prices and tapas that contribute nothing. , but they achieve the task of gather whole families around a bar , friends wanting to mess it up a bit and facilitate that of extending the afternoons until the nights and "and whatever happens".

With so much hotel opening in the area, it has been or create a constant expectation looking forward to the next site that will come to be the new trusty , whoever comes to compete for the prize for the bar with the most traditional The double or even the one who comes to create the same stir that created Cutting room when he unveiled to the world his top sirloin or his gizzards with oyster sauce and mustard.

Mr. Bonet, you screwed us up good.

But privileged stomachs –or with airs of privilege, one of two– are foolish and do not stop until they find what they want. Searching, trusting and not losing hope , they realize that the surroundings of the area suddenly dare to make room for Proposals that are out of fashion , leaving aside the trends to offer something that is lacking a lot lately –although so much hotel opening seems to indicate the opposite–: feed well.

That's how it came The ingredient a little over a year ago, breaking a little the schemes of the area and setting the bar high , both for his future competitors and for himself. The restaurant comes as a dream for its founders, but also as a challenge.

David Gutierrez he went from being, overnight, an auditor to an aspiring chef who got his first opportunity at the restaurant Air. Miguel Angel Lopez , his now partner – along with Francisco Lira –, was a sound technician until the kitchen took hold of him and led him to put on the stagier habit for a year in Diego Guerrero's DSTAge. Both coincided in Aire and little by little they were rising in position until they decided to jump into the water and open a restaurant together.

Marinated salmon with horseradish cream salmon mayonnaise dill and codium

Marinated salmon with horseradish cream, salmon mayonnaise, dill and codium

In El Ingrediente they do not marry any type of food in particular, and they dedicate themselves to playing with preparations in which there are always plenty of stews, stews and sauces . “Any type of cuisine motivates us without any type of limit, we do what we feel like. We do not make any type of food in particular, but if we have eaten or tried something that brings us head, we will try to replicate it and even improve it in our restaurant. That does not mean that we are going to start making nigiris or baths, unless we know how to do it very, very well”, David comments enthusiastically.

And yes, they imitate their culinary idols, as in the rabitos sandwich with smoked eel – a clear tribute to Javi Estevez from La Tasqueria – that they are going to incorporate into their menu, but they also know how to create tasty dishes of their own ingenuity that, although not at all traditional, know how to comfort at the first bite. “There is never a lack in our letter tartar, rice and duck foie , as well as the sandwiches that we fill with different stews , such as quail in red wine; marinated sardine; pickled red chicken and one cochinita pibil”, continues David.

Outside the menu they almost always have the tender red curry cheeks with celeriac cream or a baby squid stew with Chinese rice pasta and black garlic aioli . They currently also have a morro with squid sauce and fennel and honey salad ; Cod cheeks with black garlic pil pil and crumbs ; and vegetables stewed with cheese Cantagrullas cheddar.

One of the interesting things about a site like El Ingrediente is that yes, they have had beginner and filming mistakes, but they are mistakes that have been polished over time and that are even understood when they are repeated. EITHER when you see Miguel and David giving it their all , challenging the small kitchen that forces them to transfer their mise en place, the orders, the plating and the cold cooking to the bar and in full view of the customer.

#Ponzaning has done a lot of damage to good eating (not a good Sunday mess) but, apparently, all is not lost for Chamberí and signature cuisine.

Cochinita pibil sandwich with pickled red onion

Cochinita pibil sandwich with pickled red onion

IN DATA

Address: Alenza, 5. Madrid

Telephone: 911 37 59 72

Half price: 35 euros

Grilled beef tenderloin with shiitake shimeji and olives

Grilled beef tenderloin with shiitake, shimeji and olives

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